desoto1939

Yes the plastic is cheap but they do come with a posible issue. Since you might be putting this inline just before the carb There is always a possibility that the plastic could and I say could and it has happened inwhich the heat from the manifold could melt the plastic and then the gas would leak onto the manifold and then you would have a fire. I would recommend that you get a metal housing with the glas bowel and then put this inline just before the carb you can find these on ebay. There wasa fire that completly destoied a car becsue the plastic filter melted and the engine comparment caught on fire. Spend the extra few dollars for the safety aspect. You could also put a fram full metal cansiter filter just before the carb but you would not see any build up of sedement. Here isa picture of what i use onmy 39 desoto and is on ebay for sale: for $26 which includes the shipping; Listed under ORIGINAL NEW AC GLASS BOWL FUEL FILTER ASSEMBLY- USES GF124 FILTER 5/16" rich Hartung Desoto1939@aolo.com

Gary: You need to get a service manual on the 39 Dodge inthe manual there are wiring diagrams for the entire car and this would show you where the wires connect. rich hartung

check on ebay or start to contact some of the Mopar sellers like Roberts berbaum or maybe someone inthe forum has one. rich HArtung

Dennis there is a reproduction 1937-39 All Steel gas tank on ebay for $299 plus shipping and from what I can tell it is spot on and this is a great price for a repro tank NOS one are over the top. Call me 484-431-8157 about the Ply Gas Guage service bulliten that I have. rich

Dennis. This is rich Hartung I sent you a PM about the gas gage. How did you calibrate the fuel gage. Did you use the service manual to calibrate it correctly? rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com cell 484-431-8157 home 610-630-9188

Yes it is your car to do what ever you want to modify the car. So when someone else is putting in the extra money other that you then they have a say as to what can be done so do what you want and enjoy the time that you have with your dad driving route 66. I drove part of route 66 in Az and went thry kingman and saligman. Rich Hartung

Here are pictures of the Miller Mopar tools to remove and install the pilot bushing. I have both of these tools. rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

I know this topic of radials used onthe older cars has been discussed many times over. But according to the AACA the reason why they do not permit radials on cars that did not come standard with them is becasue the frame geomoetry and the suspension that were on our older cars is not setup correctly to handle in a safe manner the rolling and corning characteristics of the raial tires eventhought some people promote the safety aspect. i have had the Goodyear Bia Ply all weather 600X16 tires onmy 39 desoto and I just changed to the same tires becsue I was down to3/32 tread and I used the same tire again and I got over 22 years out of a set of these tires. I feel that since I like to travel around 50 MPH whe driving the car I am not worried about the performance aspect but jsut the pleaseure of driving the older car and the experience. If this was a daily driver then i might have put onthe radials but it is designed for plesure driving and tours and going to car events. everyone seems to be in a big hurry to go places with these older cars and want to do 60-70 mph. If you plan on going at those speeds then suggest that you convert to full disk brakes and a small block engine in the car and then you now have a hotrod and not an antique car. The body is the same but the car has been changed to a hotrod. so you can not have both and be an antique car just my opinion. Rich Hartung

I checked on ebay there are acouple of oil seals: 1934 1935 Plymouth Dodge Chrysler deSoto NOS Axle Oil Seal OEM MoPaR #891439 So you state that the outer seals are shreding apart. This seal bolts to theouter endge of the backing plate. Did you soak the leather oil seal in any oil to soften the leather. for the leather to shred the axle would have to be moving to touch the leather. Also sounds as if the previous owner put too much grease or oil in the drive shaft. there are two bolts on the inside of the alxle that permit you to lube the inner bearing Do NOT Do not use a lub gun the proper way is to remove the two bolts then puch with you finger the greae into the hole and over filing the differential will puch the oil out the end of the axle shaft. Call me I live in Valley forge so can provide you with more information. Below is a picrue of the correct outer oil seal. Also there is an inner oil sealthat goes behind this seal to also help prevent oil leakage. I think I have those inner seal in my parts. contact Rich D e s o t o1939@aol.com cell 484-431-8157

Todd I am wonder if the owner might have put on the 1936 and up rear outer oil seal instead of the 35 oil seal. They are a different number per my national and victor gasket information. Hopefully the owner will let us know the number of the oil seal that he used. Rich Hartung

Can you provide me with the appropriate 1935 Plymouth number from your parts book. I can then look up the Victor and or National Oil seal number that would be the correct number. This is Rich Hartung and I live near Valley Forge Pa near Audubon PA. Also will you be going to the PA historical car show this sunday at the Del County Community College.? email desoto1939@aol.com cell 484-431-8157

do not remove the venturi tube that is installed inthe carb body. You willneed the Carter special tool to do this and the tube is very thin brass. Suggest that you either get an egg carton or a plastic medicine drung holder that has the compartments for each day of the week. When taking the carb apart put each part into a seperate section so that you can then reaasemble inthe reverse order. This is really important when taking the two small balls out of the body becasue they are different is size and if you put them in inthe incorrect order the carb will not work. If you can get a carter specific kit for your carb they have the instruction sheet inthe carb box. Let me know which carb you have the number is stampped onthe flange such as ENC3. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

Don: I have my antique car insurance with Grundy here in PA. You might want to read your policy because some carriers will only permit family members to drive your antique car or truck and then they must also be 25 or older to be covered and for your vehicle to be covered under the policy. Do not want anything to happened to the car and then find out you lost the coverage. EVERYONE SHOULD CONTACT THEIR CARRIER TO VERIFY WHO AND AT WHAT AGE SOMEONE CAN DRIVE THEIR ANTIQUE CAR OR TRUCK. RICH HARTUNG DESOTO1939@AOL.COM

I will be headed for Hershey Pa on Wednesday morning. If you do make it to Hershey this week and if you need to rest your feet or just need a place to stop and talk MoPar i will be at sites OAD7 & 8. That is the Orange field row AD site 7 and 8. Also looks like we might be getting some rain so bring your umbrella and also rain gear this year. Hershey starts on Wed 10/10/18 and ends on 10/13, but on saturday is the main car show so most of the vendors have pulled out by Saturday morning since most of the people go to the car show. If you have something that you want to sell you can put it on my table but it must have a price tag on it. My cell number is 484-431-8157 Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

The 6v electric fuel pumps are very common and are listed on ebay all the time and the run around 40-50 dollars. The best backup insurance for any antique car or truck owner that has a driver car and not a show car. AACA permits the use of electric fuel pumps on cars up to 1948 so long as they are done in a professional manner and are not in plan view of the judge so they should be installed on the frame member near the gas tank. These pumps are setup to push the gas and not pull the gas like the mechanical FP that is on the engine block. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

If you are having the engine rebuilt fromteh ground up then make sure they use a good break-in oil when they are first starting the car engine. When my engine was rebuilt i switch over to 10W40 oil and have run that for over 30 Years. Also the properties of the newer oil has chnaged and i feel for the better. If you wanted to add some syn blended oil that might help with the engine or maybe a qt of full synthtic oil. Just my $1.00 worth of input. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

As all of you might know Hershey will be coming on October 10-13. If you plan on attending this great event please take some time to stop by my vendor spot in the Orange field. I will be in Orange field row OAD 7&8. Stop by and say hello and take sometime to rest and talk mopar. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com cell 484-431-8157

I like that our experienced members have been reading my post on the situation with the amp gage. So I have read all of the posts and one of the members came up with the solution to the issue. My forst thought was that the regulator had some sticking points so I headed in that direction. The regulator is located on the driver side high on the cowl. I started to look at all of the connections and then noticed that the wire which is a 10 gauge wire that should, should be connected to the FIELD contact point was broken off and it looked as if the wire had gotten overloaded and had a burn mark onthe insulation and all the wires had been cut and the connection was lost to the regulator. I then used a brand new wire to connect the field connection onthe generator to the field contact onthe regulator. I then crossed my fingers hoping that there might not be any other issue. I started the car and then amp meter was now showing a charge and the needle was pointing at the 10-12 amp rnge becasue i had tried to drain the battery by just having th elights on for approx 20 minutes prior to making the new wire. So thanks to all that provided input to the issue. So yes check all of your connections ever so often and always check for the obvious point of loose connections or a broken wire. Hope this was a lesson that someone else might benefit from. Keep up this great forum for us mopar owners. i love reading the issues that other people are trying to slove and like it when they post how they solved the issue. This helps everyone learn more about their cars/trucks. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I hope I get you to look at this just by the topic. So here is the situation on my 39 Desoto. i noticed the other day when driving home from an event the amp meter was not pointing to the charging side or positive side on the gage. When I hit the brakes the amp show discharge. Also note that the battery is 8 years old, yes 8 years old. over the weekend I tried to start the car but had a dead battery. Put in a new 6v battery and also charged up the battery on a 3 amp trickle charger. Started the car and it started real fast and strong but the amp still did not go to the positive side to show that it was charging the battery. I did find the issue why the amp gauge was not working but want to get the members to put on their thinking caps to see if they might have the answer to what happened. I did think it might be that the generator needed to be rebuilt since it is the original in the car from what I can tell since I have owned the car since 1987. Post you quesses and answers and then I will post how i fixed the issue and what the cause of the issue. After making the fix the char is now running and the amp gauge does go to positive when starting the car to indicate that it is charging the electrical system Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Yes this is the under hood lamp that I was talking about. i have a NOS one in the original box like that is shown and a non working lamp becasue as you have stated that the mercury might have dried up/ Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I would say that this type of mercury lamp would have to be install on the allegator style hood and not on the side opening or butterfly style hood. i have a factor mopar under hood lamp for my 39 Desoto that mounts onthe firewall and there isa rod that pushes the lamp down when the butterfly hood is closed. Rich Hartung

I have gone to my local Dollar Tree store and in the automotive section they sell in a two pack a set of refelctive strips, one orange and the other the lime green. The nice part is that these are plactic coated and are flat and a made so that they can wrap around your arm or leg is you are a runner at night time. I just wrap these around my rear bumper and stagger the color from orgae then green then organge, etc. They are very bright at night and have a great reflective color. Also get a few since the two are only $1 and put them in all you cars and even give a xmas presents so that when a family member gets stuck onthe raod at night with a flat they can put these on there legs and arms and be seen by the other drivers. A couple of bucks might same a family members life. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

there isa a serial number on a flat boss on the side of the motor near the generator. This will have been stamped with letters and numbers There will be a suffix then numbers. so on my 1939 desoto the number starts with S6 which is the model for my 39 Desoto. So that ells me this morotor was built for my 39 Desoto and then there are the appropriate serial number. So look at the boss and then record the number and suffix and this will tell you if the correct engine for your car. The letters might start with a P3 or P4 rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com

the eccentric cams can be replaced but the upper half moon I do not think can be replaced Rich HArtung