desoto1939

It is a standard fitting and the tubing can be purchase and any good auto store if you aree talking about the steel fuel line I think it is 3/8 tubing or are you talking about the fitting that hold the needle valve? Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Might a short might not have all the wire tight on the float unit. This is a 2 wire unit just like on my 39 Desoto could also be a ground issue. There are points on the gas gauge that make sort of a heat and this isalso what helps with the gas gage. Rich Hartung

According to my Miller information it depends: If you have the 7 passenger then Front adapter is # 32 and rear is 47 regular car then front is 70 and rear is 41. these same two were used back from 1937 and up. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

http://dandmrestoration.com/speedometer-repair/ founf this guy on the web have not used but this guy look as if he know how to fix a speedometer At D&M Restoration, we specialize in complete speedometer repair and restoration. Without an accurate and functional speedometer, any classic car restoration project would not be complete.We have the necessary facilities for rebuilding and restoring all antique, classic and vintage car speedometers; including Stewart Warner, King Seeley, Waltham, Autolite, Northeast, AC Delco, Faria, Jaeger, etc. D&M Restoration can work with speedometers from any make and model of vintage, classic, antique or muscle car. We do extensive work with (but are not limited to) Chevrolet, Ford, Chrysler, Dodge, Pontiac, GM, Ferrari, BMW, Corvette, Firebird, Camaro, Chevelle, Corvair, Mustang, Thunderbird! Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

I just saw listed the Miller MT19 Brake guage tool and it seems to be complete. Hold your breath the listed price is $600 This is the factory tool to adjust the lockheed brakes with the toe and heel adjustments. I am not the one selling the tool. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

So if the pulley is different then could he pull the pulley on his current generator and then put it on the new generator even if it was originall an A but now the generator is a B. So just swap the pully and I would think it would work becsue the spec show allthe same out puts according to my autolite catalog. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Thanks for all of your input to my situation. I am going to try to put fluid in the MC and try to build up pressure. The odd part is about a week ago I started the car and pushed the brake pedal and had a good pedal and it moved the correct amount of distacne and did not go to the floor. Then this week it went to the floor so I will have to pullthe front wheels first becasue they are easy to do then the back drums. Just to cold to work inthe garage when it is high 20's. I will keep everyone update as I make progress. I do have relined brake shoes with the old asbestos lining. I have found the samethinh that the newer lining seem to get hardened and or glazed and then the brakes pull. We can stilluse the asbestos linings here inthe states. Thanks, Rich Hartung Valley forge PA desoto1939@aol.com

When to start my 39 Desoto the other day toget it up to temp since it was sat for a couple of weeks. Engine came up without any issues. Then I hit the brake pedal to test my brakes and the pedal went to the floor board. The pedal did return becsue of the brake pedal spring so i know the spring is not broken. Did a quick check at the backing plate of each wheel and did not see any wetness or indication of any blown out wheel cylinders. I have a feeling that it might be a rebuild time on the master cylinder note there was not any fluid inthe MC when i took the capoff today. The system was build with silicone brake fluid approx in 1987 and this is the first issue that i have had in 30 years. It is to cold in the unheated garage to pull the wheels so it is going to wait until it warms up. I do have an extra master cylinder rebuild kit and the other cups and other rubber parts for the wheel cylinders So it will be a fund time inthe next couple of weeks. I do have a mighty-mite vacuum pump and this will be my first time to use this tool any suggestions and has anyone used one of these to bleed their brakes. I will also have to take the floor boards and carpet out of the front of the car since the MC is bolted to the frame rail. I am alot older now and not as nimble but will get the MC out and pull it apart and rebuild. Does anyone know of a MC automatic fluid filler that i can get to get brake fluid to keep filling the MC when bleeding the brakes? Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

every fall in put in a can of water pump lube which has a antirust agent. Over the years the AF will still work but the AF breaks down in the rust preventative agents. The antirust or water pump lube is gotten at NAPA and is made by GUNK. It is a pint container and it is a white liquid that you pour into the top of the radiator. Also remember to use the old GREEN style AF and not the newer stuff. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

was ther ever a change to bigger tire or rims there seems to be alot of space from the top of the rear wheels to the bottom of the rear fender well also for the front wheel. In the outback country roads not being paved maybe they chnage the tires for more clearance. i know the plymouths had the optional bigger rims for when they had to go into the back country roads here in the states. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

try restoration supply in Windber Pa. They have alot of clips and fasteners 814-467-9842 www.restorationspecialties.com rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com

The first fist fit is making sure when you put the filter into the canister the hole in the middle of filter adn the rod inthe cansiter are a tight fit. Then the next measurement is the height of the filter to fit in the canister then the width diameter of the filter itseld. The carquest 85076 is a fine unit. Does it fir well inthe canister and have remove for the oil to flow throught the filter. If it does then you should have nothing to worry about you will be fine you do need some space along the sides of the cnister wall and oil filter.. So if the filter is pushed all the way to the bottom of the unit and you have more extra space at the top then measure this distance upto the rim of the canister and then see if your parts supplier has one to fir the height and the inside diameter of the canister. Not knowing which canister you have these measurement will have to be done by you and then by the trial and error approach. I have been using a napa 1010 gold filter for over 25 years without any issues. rich hartung

Meezy: when you say canisters are you referring to the spin-on type filters that are used in our modern cars? Most of the olders cars did not use the spin-on style. They either used the canister styel which was a heavy steel metal housing inwhich the oil filter element slide into the hosuing and then the top or lid was bolted down onto the body of the canister. Basically it really does not matter which brand of canister is used they all baiscally were the same. The oil flowed into the top of the canister the oil got filtered and then returned via the oil line at the bottom of the cannister. The main filter that are avialble today are NAPA Wix, Baldwin, Fram AC all are good filter it just depends on which filter element fits your canister. The oil is not really under pressure like on a modern car there isa check valve in the oil connect along the galley and when the pressure relief value opens then the oil will flow to the filter and then back So no real worry of blowing out the oil filter canister. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Also remeber that the oil filter units where an accessory item and the various dealers would put on any unit that their local parts suppliers either had instock or that the parts house would send to them. Later on MoPAr had the canister and you can get them but you will pay more if its a MoPAr canister. If you get a unit off of ebay then take the entire metal housing to you local NAPA store and then fit in a drop in filter I have an AC canister style and I use a NAPA Gold 1010 filter has the metal cover with the perforations and a lift ring to remove it fromthe housing when needed. You might have to make a new rubber gasket for your lid but that is easy todo. Very simple Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

I think the first thing is to determine the actual offset if there is any. So put the dampener on the crank and then set a straight edge in the crank pulley and then see where it rests in the water pump pulley fan hub and then also the generator pulley. They basically all should align up on the same straight edge. I can not tell you the amount of offset that is permissible but maybe a qualified mechanic could answer that question but I would think there might be very little or none to prevent bearing wear and stress on the components when the engine is running. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

the inner parts of these older cater carbs used alot of brass small parts. The only thing that might get affected by the ethinol might be the acclerator pump leather or if you have a rubber tip on you needle valve. Not really any rubber parts inside the old carter carbs. There a few littler small gaskets that might get affected but not sure. rich hartung

if you have parts book for this car then it should answer your question. If someone has a parts book they might beable to provide the answer to your question. Rich HArtung

Thanks for the update: is this just old cloth covered wire that is on a spool or is it a wire harness for a specific car or truck? In either case if the cloth is starting to unravel then the cloth is drying out and I would be very hesitant to even consider using the wire since the cloth is seperating from the wiring and then if you used it some place and had a bend in the wire then the cloth would eventually come off the bare wire and then you have the potential for a short and then a potential for a fire or something else. Just have it as an example of old original wiring but I would not even consider using it make it a display item in your garage. Rich Hartung

are the ends having a build up of white looking powder> Then clean off with a solution made up of baking soda and spread this onthe ends and they spray with some water. Then use an old toothbrush to work the paste into the area. The baking soda will nutralize the acid and then rinse off the soluition and you will have a clean batter end. Then put on one of the green and red felt washer on the battery terminal like on your modern car this will help prevent the build up of the white powder on the ends. rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

your carb model is the D6G1. So you would look for a carter Carb kit or jiffy kit that you fit your model and also there are specific gaskets that also fit this carb. the 0-370 is a carter part number for the airhorn part on the carb but the model carb is theD6G1. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

you unbolt the pedal fromthe rm and then pullthe seal down over the arm under the floor board. you might have to unbolt the floor board. rich hartung

do you have a service manual on your car it will tell you how to adjust the clutch spring with the overcenter spring tool. rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

the generator should not hit the filltube you should beable to loosen the nut that holds the braket at the water pump then loosen the bolt that threads thru the front of the generator. When these are both loose then the bracket will pivot and then the geneartor will pivot. You might also have to loosen the two bottom bolts that hold the generator onto the lower bracket that mounts to the engine block. Look at the mounting and then try these suggestions. If you have the correct lenght belt it will go on without much trouble. Bingster also had an issue in another thread and look at this old tread. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

most of time the rearends were drains with a suction type devise to remove all of the old oil. rich Hartung