desoto1939

As to your question about the various electrical components drying up. Yes this will happen as time marches on. So I would suggest that you keep your eye out and look for those parts to have on hand. These components were widely used so I would think they should be around for some more time. But be prepared just in case. I have a 39 desoto and I have seen over the past 30 years of going to Hershey ever fall that the early 30's mopar specific parts such as trim, lens, dash knobs, etc are not showing up even at this big event with 8-10 venders. So you have to be on the constant search for the parts and when you do find them then buy them today because tomorrow they will be gone. This is why I have collect the various cross reference catalogs to cover the electrical and other components for our cars. So if the autolite points cannot be found I might find Echlin or blue stream or P&D, Filko so you must be prepared for the future. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

I know that on my 1939 Desoto on the fuel gugae there is a hole for a condenser and I think this was to stop radio static. But I have not found any information on the speifics on the condenser. Thought this might shead some light on the topic. Rich Hartungi

Autolite Starter Controls Soleinods.pdfAutolite Starter Controls Soleinods.pdfAutolite Starter Controls Soleinods.pdfAutolite Starter Controls Soleinods.pdfI found an old autolite document on Starter Controls and on the Desoto 1946-48 the starter solenoid is listed as being SS-4707. I will attach the document so you can see the information Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

David, This is Rich Hartung I sent you a Private message be on the look out for the PM.

The starter is not the big issue the big issue is getting the Autolite Selinoid that mounts ontop of the starter motor. These have been very hard to find and if you find one get ready to pay out some dollars it is an Autolite unit and only Autolite. Rich Hartung

I stillhave the original steel line running from the VA to the carb and I do not have any issues with adjusting the timing when rotating the dizzy. If replacing the line as suggested I would go with the Ni-cop line because it is easier to bend and then could use the rubber hose from the VA to the line if you need to make adjustments. Keep a metal line going over the top of the head. Rich Hartung

On my 1939 Desoto the entire line is a metal line from the Vacuum Advance over to the carb. They did put several loops in the line when coming out of the dizzy to help with the advance and retarding of the dizzy to prevent the breaking of the line. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

According to my Hollander book the MAX 4045 is for the 41 Chysler and the MAX 4050 fits 1942-48 Chrysler all models and 42 desoto fluid Drive. So I would say that the MAX4045 willnot work on your 47 Chrysler. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

Bill: The Natioanl Desoto club does have a website but right now they had an issue and the site crashed. They are in the process of trying to rebuild it and get it back up and running. Where are you located in the Us. We have year specific coordinators that can assist with questions and leads onto parts and other issues. The 1954 coordinator is Paul Beyer. he also had a 39 desoto. He live in east Syracuse NY phone number 315-656-8114 pbeyer@twcny.rr.com. Tell him that I gave you his number an Id. We are friends. Rich Hartung

Bill I just replaced my old oil screen filter in my 39 desoto with a paper element and the car did not have any issue. and mine is partially covers by the face of the metal air cleaner. Since you had a full opening for the air to enter the carb I do not understand why it was running rough? and then when you put the original back on it smoothed out seems as if it was getting too much air not sure but very interesting. Look like you will have a nice car when it is painted. Are you a member of the National Desoto club? This years Desoto convention is going to be held in Kansas so we all have to follow the YELLOW BRICK road to get to the convention. rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

The old style Pin and trunnion U joint with the metal housing tend to cost around $200 upto $300 per u joint. and then you have to have the old pin pushed out of the ball end and assemble the with the new u joint housing and then push the pin back in and it needs to be set perfectly equal distance in the ball. If not then the u joint will be off balance. So for the cost of an entire new driveshaft witht he slip joint and two new modern u joints that can be greased with the zerk fitting it is almost the same cost as the two NOS old style Pin and trunnion set. So for around $400 you can get the new drive shaft that will bolt directly into the ends and fit perfectly and no more leather or rubber boots to replace and and the u joints can be replaced by any mechanic. If you go this route I would suggest that you get an extra set of the u joints just to have them as spares in case you every have to replace them but they should last a life time but when you just think that they will always have your specific Spicer U joints then they no longer make them. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Clay: Things are looking great can not wait to see the finished product. Just think how much you have learned in the process. Keep up the good work and keep all posted. Your Miller Tool Buddy. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Young Ed, This is rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com I would be interested in a couple if you can get them. If you can get some let me know the cost plus shipping. rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com cell 484-431-8157

Merle: I have verified in my Echlin iginition catalog that the correct Hr relay is Autolite HRL-4101 and the Echlin number is HR 104 6v 4 terminal relay. The picture does not indicate which terminal is wired to on the car so the 4 terminal unit is correct for Chrysler 42, 46-48. If the owner has a wireing diagram it willthen show him which terminal to connect to which other end either on the regulator battery and horns. I have uploaded the data sheets per my Echlin catalog and shows pictures of the HR104 Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Tom: I would think you could because on my horn relay that is on the bracket for the two trumpet horns on my 39 Desoto there isa a 20 amp fuse. So I think an inline 20 amp fuse might work on your car also. the autolite number is HRL- 4101and replaces HRL-4001 used on Chrysler 42 and 1946-49 according to my autolite catalog rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

kbuhagiar: I sent you a PM about the various bolts and nuts. look for your private message onyour computer. rich hartung

I have to agree with Dodge4ya. Always look for the old Autolite products for the electrical components then as backup then the Echlins, Bluse Streak, Older NAPA P&D Sorenson Filko but it takes some time to get together these components at your local swap meets. Having the cross reference numbers also help and I have a catalog that has been scanned to CD that is a cross reference for all of the major suppliers worth having in your library and then create your cross ref list over the winter time All you have to know is the Autolite part number and then you can find the equivalent part number from the other suppliers. I have attached a copy of the cover to show what manufactures are covered. This has a lot manufacturers. contact me if interested rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com

This is rich Hartung, I have several Brake catalogs but cannot find any listing for a 1940 Traveler. Do you have a parts book that might have the mopar number and then I might be able to find some info for you. Aslso is therer model nuber like c26 c27 associated with the car. According to one of my other books the mopar part number is 856347 and the traveler is model c26 which is also for a Saratoga and New Yorker 8 cylinder this was tken out of Flat rate motor age book. I can not find any lisiting to provide me with either an EIS or Wagner Master Cylinder number but maybe the above info might help you find one. Keep us posted on your search efforts. send the info to my email at Desoto1939@aol.com Just did a search and found Atlas Obsolete they list a Master Cylinder for 1940 C26 as their part number callthem at 951-461-9005 atlaschrys@aol.com They are on the west coast. Hope this even helps more. live near Philadelphia pa cell 484-431-8157

I would also suggest that you get a battery tender for your car and keep the clips on the posts. The worst thing is not having the battery at fullcharge. By keeping the battery tender attached this keeps the battery at charge and extends the life of the battery. I had a 6v battery last me 8 years. It would have lasted longer but one of my lead wires to the volt regulator broke so it drained the battery. rich hartung

Check the Breaker Plate assembly. Take the distributor cap off and remove the rotor, then grab the dizzy plate assembly and see if it moves sided to side and if loose. A friend of mine had a 39 Desoto and the assembly plate had a lot of slop and the car would backfire and was loosingpower. An old time mechanic friend of mine looked at the plate and told us to replace and this solved his problem. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

You do not have a pressurized system > I would ask him my a pressurized system? It is because he is goingto a new radiator but I stillthink he is not correct. Ask more questions of the group before making the change. Rich Hartung

The early desoto and Mopar did not have a pressurized system. So I would call them again to make sure they know this information. You should not, again should not use a Presurised radiator cap use a regular radiator cap and it should be an R3 cap that is a standard cap for your car. I have a 39 Desoto and it is the same honeycomb radiator and the same cap. You can get the R3 cap on ebay. I have a lot of cross refence catalog for your car contact me at desoto1939@aol.com rich hartung

Also check the battery cables. Make sure you have a good CLEAN connection on the posts and also a good Clean ground connection. Might also want to put on an extra ground strap. Also did you change the battery cables and if you did, did you put on 12volt cables? You willneed the heavier gage 0 or double 0 gage cables so that the 6v can carry more voltage. A lot of people have changed to the 12v when they first get the car thinking these will work. Yes they will but best when the engine is cold and not hot. When the car or block is hot then it gets hard to start the car, You also state that the headlight will not turn on. Have they ever worked or do you have to blown headlight bulbs. Try pushing the high low beam floor switch several times the points get corroded and then by stepping on the button cleans the points. Check the wire connection at the posts near the radiator to make sure these are tight and not corroded. Could also be the wiring needs to be replaced if they are original. Test for continuity. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Gary: the Masonite piece might be a tacking strip to tack the headliner material around the window. The metal inside garnish molding then would cover the tacks. Also there will be severalmetal pieces that has saw tooth to push the headliner up against to hold it into position alsong the sides. I helped my painter install the headline in my 39 desoto but that was in 1996 use flat wide putty knifes to push the material into the frames. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com