desoto1939

Don the poster was asking abut a vacuum advance. So explain how the new gas is affecting the diaphragm in the vacuum advance. This is just making pressure based on the movement of the breaker plate. No fuel is getting to the VA. I do agree with the statement that old rubber is not compatible with the ethanol gas. Rich Hartung

The only holes inthe floor boards should be for the bolts that are used to bolt the floor boards to the frame. There might be a major plate that can be removed to check the mastercyinder that is bolted to the fram and the hole for the foot dimmer swithc and the two holes that bolt the dimmer switch. The other holes is for the accelartor rod and for the floor mounter push rod to start the car with the pushrod if so equipted You donot want any holes in the flor board that are not needed becasue you will get engine heat and fumes intot he passenger comparment. There are not drain holes for paint application. i have a 39 desoto so your car will be very close to mine. Check the holes very carefully to make sure these are not rustout homes. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com.

Yes I agree that we all need to know which model or specific electric FP the gentleman is going to use. The ones that you see on Ebay and also at the swap meets are mostly two wire units and are the AIRTEX model for 6 volt positive ground units. So in that case the man only has two wires to worry about. One to supply power the other for grounding. So therefore one wire from the ignition switch when the swithc is hot to the toggles switch on the dash. then when the toggle is on then the power will turn on the Electrci fp. Very simple setup and works just fine unless the owner has some other setup that we dont know about. So why does he need a safety switch? He has not stated the reason for this type of switch. Most owners use the electric pump as a primer pump so the use of the toggle switch is the main cutoff for the power to the pump. Feel he needs to provide more information on why a safety switch. Rich Hartung

wire the pump from the starter switch and run to a toggle switch. then from the toggle switch to the electric fuel pump. Thus way the pump is always turned off and then you can switch the pump on by flipping the toggle to the on position and then prime the carb or leave it on to feed the carb. Buy having the this setup you control the electric, some people put the switch on apulse switch so as long as you push the pulse button the electric pump will push fuel but this makes it harder to drive if you need to use the electric as a backup pump. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

You might need either a R-1 or R-2 cap. The r3 fits my 1939 Desoto. Start searching for R-1 or R-2 radiator caps on ebay 37 38 Chrysler Radiator Cap R1 R-1 New Vintage Norlipp (Exc Imperial) this is the current info on ebay $23.60 for the cap so now you can look for these in your local swap meets. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I totaly understand. I was trying to let you know what the potentail part might look like if your ever come across one at a swap meet. This info came from my Autolite 38 - 52 catalog. Hope you get you problem fixed. I have a 39 Desoto 4 door sedan and have also used he fender lamps that are on your 39 Dodge as my turn signals. If you ever need additioanl help with some 39 items let me know. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I think the part that you really need is called the frame assembly that has the odometer numbers in th fram did a search on ebay for 1939 dodge speedometer and there are several speed frame assemblies and they are nOS with the small brass cogged wheels Not completely sure if this will work for you but according to the seller he say yes. My Aitolite componets books states that the correct frame assembly is an Autolite but the nuimber is SA100229 for 35 dollars might work for you. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

Also try Rhode Island Wiring. They put out a quality product and I have delt with them before. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

It is a standard fitting and the tubing can be purchase and any good auto store if you aree talking about the steel fuel line I think it is 3/8 tubing or are you talking about the fitting that hold the needle valve? Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Might a short might not have all the wire tight on the float unit. This is a 2 wire unit just like on my 39 Desoto could also be a ground issue. There are points on the gas gauge that make sort of a heat and this isalso what helps with the gas gage. Rich Hartung

According to my Miller information it depends: If you have the 7 passenger then Front adapter is # 32 and rear is 47 regular car then front is 70 and rear is 41. these same two were used back from 1937 and up. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

http://dandmrestoration.com/speedometer-repair/ founf this guy on the web have not used but this guy look as if he know how to fix a speedometer At D&M Restoration, we specialize in complete speedometer repair and restoration. Without an accurate and functional speedometer, any classic car restoration project would not be complete.We have the necessary facilities for rebuilding and restoring all antique, classic and vintage car speedometers; including Stewart Warner, King Seeley, Waltham, Autolite, Northeast, AC Delco, Faria, Jaeger, etc. D&M Restoration can work with speedometers from any make and model of vintage, classic, antique or muscle car. We do extensive work with (but are not limited to) Chevrolet, Ford, Chrysler, Dodge, Pontiac, GM, Ferrari, BMW, Corvette, Firebird, Camaro, Chevelle, Corvair, Mustang, Thunderbird! Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

I just saw listed the Miller MT19 Brake guage tool and it seems to be complete. Hold your breath the listed price is $600 This is the factory tool to adjust the lockheed brakes with the toe and heel adjustments. I am not the one selling the tool. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

So if the pulley is different then could he pull the pulley on his current generator and then put it on the new generator even if it was originall an A but now the generator is a B. So just swap the pully and I would think it would work becsue the spec show allthe same out puts according to my autolite catalog. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Thanks for all of your input to my situation. I am going to try to put fluid in the MC and try to build up pressure. The odd part is about a week ago I started the car and pushed the brake pedal and had a good pedal and it moved the correct amount of distacne and did not go to the floor. Then this week it went to the floor so I will have to pullthe front wheels first becasue they are easy to do then the back drums. Just to cold to work inthe garage when it is high 20's. I will keep everyone update as I make progress. I do have relined brake shoes with the old asbestos lining. I have found the samethinh that the newer lining seem to get hardened and or glazed and then the brakes pull. We can stilluse the asbestos linings here inthe states. Thanks, Rich Hartung Valley forge PA desoto1939@aol.com

When to start my 39 Desoto the other day toget it up to temp since it was sat for a couple of weeks. Engine came up without any issues. Then I hit the brake pedal to test my brakes and the pedal went to the floor board. The pedal did return becsue of the brake pedal spring so i know the spring is not broken. Did a quick check at the backing plate of each wheel and did not see any wetness or indication of any blown out wheel cylinders. I have a feeling that it might be a rebuild time on the master cylinder note there was not any fluid inthe MC when i took the capoff today. The system was build with silicone brake fluid approx in 1987 and this is the first issue that i have had in 30 years. It is to cold in the unheated garage to pull the wheels so it is going to wait until it warms up. I do have an extra master cylinder rebuild kit and the other cups and other rubber parts for the wheel cylinders So it will be a fund time inthe next couple of weeks. I do have a mighty-mite vacuum pump and this will be my first time to use this tool any suggestions and has anyone used one of these to bleed their brakes. I will also have to take the floor boards and carpet out of the front of the car since the MC is bolted to the frame rail. I am alot older now and not as nimble but will get the MC out and pull it apart and rebuild. Does anyone know of a MC automatic fluid filler that i can get to get brake fluid to keep filling the MC when bleeding the brakes? Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

every fall in put in a can of water pump lube which has a antirust agent. Over the years the AF will still work but the AF breaks down in the rust preventative agents. The antirust or water pump lube is gotten at NAPA and is made by GUNK. It is a pint container and it is a white liquid that you pour into the top of the radiator. Also remember to use the old GREEN style AF and not the newer stuff. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

was ther ever a change to bigger tire or rims there seems to be alot of space from the top of the rear wheels to the bottom of the rear fender well also for the front wheel. In the outback country roads not being paved maybe they chnage the tires for more clearance. i know the plymouths had the optional bigger rims for when they had to go into the back country roads here in the states. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

try restoration supply in Windber Pa. They have alot of clips and fasteners 814-467-9842 www.restorationspecialties.com rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com

The first fist fit is making sure when you put the filter into the canister the hole in the middle of filter adn the rod inthe cansiter are a tight fit. Then the next measurement is the height of the filter to fit in the canister then the width diameter of the filter itseld. The carquest 85076 is a fine unit. Does it fir well inthe canister and have remove for the oil to flow throught the filter. If it does then you should have nothing to worry about you will be fine you do need some space along the sides of the cnister wall and oil filter.. So if the filter is pushed all the way to the bottom of the unit and you have more extra space at the top then measure this distance upto the rim of the canister and then see if your parts supplier has one to fir the height and the inside diameter of the canister. Not knowing which canister you have these measurement will have to be done by you and then by the trial and error approach. I have been using a napa 1010 gold filter for over 25 years without any issues. rich hartung

Meezy: when you say canisters are you referring to the spin-on type filters that are used in our modern cars? Most of the olders cars did not use the spin-on style. They either used the canister styel which was a heavy steel metal housing inwhich the oil filter element slide into the hosuing and then the top or lid was bolted down onto the body of the canister. Basically it really does not matter which brand of canister is used they all baiscally were the same. The oil flowed into the top of the canister the oil got filtered and then returned via the oil line at the bottom of the cannister. The main filter that are avialble today are NAPA Wix, Baldwin, Fram AC all are good filter it just depends on which filter element fits your canister. The oil is not really under pressure like on a modern car there isa check valve in the oil connect along the galley and when the pressure relief value opens then the oil will flow to the filter and then back So no real worry of blowing out the oil filter canister. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Also remeber that the oil filter units where an accessory item and the various dealers would put on any unit that their local parts suppliers either had instock or that the parts house would send to them. Later on MoPAr had the canister and you can get them but you will pay more if its a MoPAr canister. If you get a unit off of ebay then take the entire metal housing to you local NAPA store and then fit in a drop in filter I have an AC canister style and I use a NAPA Gold 1010 filter has the metal cover with the perforations and a lift ring to remove it fromthe housing when needed. You might have to make a new rubber gasket for your lid but that is easy todo. Very simple Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

I think the first thing is to determine the actual offset if there is any. So put the dampener on the crank and then set a straight edge in the crank pulley and then see where it rests in the water pump pulley fan hub and then also the generator pulley. They basically all should align up on the same straight edge. I can not tell you the amount of offset that is permissible but maybe a qualified mechanic could answer that question but I would think there might be very little or none to prevent bearing wear and stress on the components when the engine is running. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

the inner parts of these older cater carbs used alot of brass small parts. The only thing that might get affected by the ethinol might be the acclerator pump leather or if you have a rubber tip on you needle valve. Not really any rubber parts inside the old carter carbs. There a few littler small gaskets that might get affected but not sure. rich hartung