desoto1939

You stated that you installed the carter P4259 electric FP and still no fuel to the carb. So disconnect the mechanical FP and connect a hose to the fuel line at the front on the engine where the fuel line comes out then run the hose into a container tos ee if you get any fuel when cranking the car over. Also assuming that you have a working electric FP then you should get fuel to pump out the line into the container. If no fuel come out or only a small amount then there is something in the line or something wrong in the routing with the double lines that you have shown. The electric FP should pump at 3-5 LBS and you should have a steady flow of gas. I still think you might have a air leak or a clogged line. The electric fp should do the job keep looking you will find the issue. Also check the inline fuel filtr make sure that they are installed correctly and that the output side is facing to the carb and that they are not install backwards. Rich Hartung

Greg G, I would be worried about the antirusting agents might have wornout since you have driven the car 45000 miles and only changed the AF twice. The old green Af was good for several years. Look in the radiator opening and check to see if the Af IS A RUST COLOR OR TURNING BROWNISH INSTEAD OF THE BRIGHT GREEN. iF TURING BROWN THEN YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE af TO KEEP THE ANTIRUSTING AGENT UP TO PAR. bELOW IS AN EXAMPLE OF THE af TURING BROWN. rICH HARTUNG

The tool is good for adjusting the brake linings but remember the fact that the tool in the picture is probably set to the eact meaurement of say 10 or 11 or 12 depending on your particular car. If you drums have been turn or cut as we say then the internal diameter of you original drums will have a larger diameter than you tool. You will be close enought ot get a good setting and then might have to do a minor adjustment with the upper half moon cam. can be done and I think with good results. Rich Hartung

Tom I referred to the old original GREEN AF that we all used back in the 50-60's. This is stillavialble at all stores. You might have to look to find it becasue most modern cars are now using the extended style yellow or orange color AF. The original green can come in any color bottle it doesnot matter beacuse each manufacturer has different bottle colors. every year i install pint of radiator rust inhibutor and water pump lubricate in the radiator. It is made by GUNK. This helps keep the antirusting agents active. AF has a long active life in the engine but the antirusting agents are what breaks down and then this causes the af to turn brown from the rust and then you welch plugs or freeze out plugs start to rust and then leak. The cost is arounf $4.00 for a pint bottle and i feel that it is worth the extra protection for the block and waterpump. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

Also use the old original green sytle AF. Do not use the nex extended type AF. The newer style is know for having issues with seals and gaskets. This come directly from Prestone engineer. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

Before cutting the drum i would suggest that you take the two old rear drums off the car and then take them to a good brake shop and have them mic the drums to get th exact measurement. With this information than you might possibly find a good used drum that might have the same or very close measurement. If this can be found then cut the hole inthe spare drum and then you would have a better brake drum relationship to your permanent drums. If the distance is too great then you are close as we say in horseshoes and quates but no real cigar. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

The place to look would be onthe production plate that is attached to the cowel on the passenger side of then sheet metal on the cowl inside the engine bay. Rich Hartung

The first step that I would do is use a claybar with a detailer spray such a Mcguiers detailer spray this is the lubricant that you need but also has a poilsh or wax that when you wipe dry the moisture is puts a coating of poiish onthe car. Then you have removed all of the contaminents and the paint will be ready for some good old polish. Do small sections at a time like one half of the hood then the next side of the hood then a fender with the clay bar. i do this on my 39 desoto twice a year and also on my regular car to get rid of the contaninemts and the finish feels like a newborns baby bottom when running your hand across the metal. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

The sisson automatic choke was an option for plymouth. The Dodge, Chrylse and Desoto had two studs on the top of t eintak manifold inwhich the unit bolted directly to the manifold. The 39 Plymouth could be adapted with a special braket and the sisson choke then attached to the braket. I am the person that did the presentation and the power point on the sission choke at the AACa annual lecture in Philadelphia. Fell free to contact me. I live near Philadelphia PA Valley forge Pa Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com cell 484-431-8157

When you supplied the Autolite number you can see how quickly someone responded with the various Autolite internal parts. These are the Autolite part numbers that you would look for at swap meets and they can be cross referenced into other manufacturers specific part numbers. This is why i collect the various automobile parts suppliers old catalogs just for cross reference issues. You usually do not find the MoPAr numbers on parts but generally the after market parts suppliers. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

do you have a dual action fp on the new engine? My FP on my 39 Desoto is a single action FP. If a dual action pump it would have a vacuum line to attach the hose to run the vacuum wiper motor. My 39 Desoto has electric wiper so no dual action fp. Just another thought. You might have a leak if you have a dual action pump and therefore lees fuel pressure. Most pumps pull between 3-5 lbs of pressure. just putting out some thoughts on your issue. Also can you explain the routing of the fuel lines that you showed in the pictures. Rich Hartung

The moe important number is to look at the Autolite number that is attached to the body of the distributor. It will have three letter then some numbers. This is important becasue it will then tell us what offical dizzy you have and then we can tell the correct cap, rotor, points and condensor that you need for your car and also the correct vacuum advance unit. I have an Autolite catalog that lists the various information and parts so that is how I can get the information. When going to a vendor such as Andy Berbaum they will always ask for the Autolite Dizzy number so they can get you the correct parts. When searching for parts most times you will not find the mopar numbers on boxes or parts but you will find the aftermarket suppliers that supplied the parts to the car manufacturers. Autolite was a major player in electrical components for alot of car companies. Rich HArtung cell 484-431-8157 Desoto1939@aol.com

I can see what you are doing but the straight line from the tank goes into a metal filter then the electric FP. The upper line connects prior to the inline fuel filter then looks to run thru anohter filter and then connects back into the fuel supply line. So in real time the mechanical pump is really pulling gas thru the electric pump even when it is turned off and the upper line is pulling fuel from the gas tank via the mechanical FP at the same time. So with so many connections is there any possibilty of a air leak, but if there is a n air leak I would think that you would have a fuel leak issue also. You stated that this issue startd after the engine rebuild can you verify that the engine build polished the crankshaft and then might have taken to much metal off the fp lobe. This is just a thought but that seems to me to be the issue. So if the car ran fine with proper FP volume prior to the rebuild then I would think that there is an issue with the FP lobe. I am not a mechanic but that is where I would be looking. Also let us know what your results are after the AC588 FP rebuild and then installed on the car. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

which electric FP did you install? It should be pushing at a rate of 3-5 punds and this should be adequate to keep the car running at idle and also when running down the road at normal highway speeds. If it is not running smooth at idle then i think you have another issue with either the fuel line or carburation. Have you chnaged the rubber line going to the old mechanicl fp do you have a filter on the fule line and is is possibly clogged. I would install a plastic see thru filter and runt he car in you driveway to see if you are getting any sediment inthe filter. This is an indication that the line has crap in it or the fule tank needs to be cleaned. I have a AC588 FP on my 39 desoto and I have good idle and highway speeds and have the airtext electric pump as a backup. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

the tool that was shown is not an axle puller it is drum puller to puller off the brake drum from the rear tappered axle. To pull the axle you need to remove the brakes and disconnect the brake lines and then remove the backing plate. Then you thread on to th end of the axle a slide hammer axle puller. There were specific miller axle pullers that were factory dealer tools. I have one of the original axle pullers that came out of a mopar dealership. I have attached a copy from the miller tool catalog that shows the factory axle puller. This is what I have, I have the two upper pictures not the bottom picture Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Miller factory rear Axle pullers.docx

But on a 39 Desoto there is right hand treaded botls on both sides so there is no left or right sided drums and my car is correct with the correct drums and bolts for the lugs. Rich Hartung

is there a metal cooper gasket under the plug and seating on the head? If the cooper gasket is missing or possible cracked this might cause the issue. Just a thought. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

the top switch is just like the same unit that I have in my 1939 Desoto and yes the round long metal holder at the rear right corner is a fuse holder built into the switch. rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Ok the correct stater motor for the 1946-48 Desoto is an Autolite MAw-4025 and according to my Autolite Stater controls printout the correct Selinoid Switch is an Autiolite SS-4707 not the 4705 this was used in 1942 on fluid drive. The SS-4707 was used from 1946-thru 1950 and also used on starter MCH-6102 and MAW 4055. I have the autolite document that shows the details and the settings for adjustements. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

You might be correct but why do the mechanics still use the air gun to over tighten the lug nuts on our modern cars? This is because they are lazy and it would require them to use the proper tool or color coded attachment on their air guns to set the proper torque. When you go to Costco for tires the mechanic uses the gun to remove the lug nuts or bolts but their policy is to use a torque wrench set with the proper torque to hand tighten the nuts and then when done the supervisor then rechecks each wheel before they deliver the car back to you. can you tell me if and when you have ever seen this done at any other shop. They always over tighten the nuts and then you have to go back to have them loosened and then hand tighten properly. So time is money in the auto repair business so most mechanics will not taken the time to look at the L or r on the stud or bolt. My point is that on a truck as you state they have been trained for Left threaded bolts but not on the cars becasue we have not used them in 50+ years, so take the time to tell the mechanic and tell them about your car it only takes a minute and if it is any good quality shop they will welcome the information. Also suggest that you stand by the garage door when they are removing the wheel and tell them again about L/R wheel lugs nuts/bolts. I am not rying to argue the point of L/R being used today but it is still your responsibility as the owner of the car to let them know about the difference becsue this is not standard on our modern cars. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

No matter how much you paint the flange of the hub Red, orange and any other color it willnot mean anything to one of the modern mechanics of todays training. They have not been taught and will not be taught that there are left hand lug bolts and or nuts on cars. This is not the normal and we can not expect them to know this information. Even if you had a flashing neon sign infront of them prior to taking off the hub cap they still will set their air gun up for right hand threads. it is your responsibility to remind the mechanic 20 times that the left side has left had threads both front and rear becasue only you know the specific about your car. They are trained to work on modern cars and not antiques that are 50+ years old. This is old technology and they have not been exposed to it. Just my 25 cents worthof input. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

when I was Ebay the other day i saw a listing for the crush ferrel that you are talking about and i think Mike W is the person that is selling these for the gas lines. go an find one of his listing undr vintagexxxx and then send him a message. Could you have take the tank to a good gas tank repair and have then soder in a fitting that has a flared end and then make a short piece so that you can use a flared fitting which is more accessable at any good parts house. So cut you line put in a double flare fitting and then add the new section with a double flair witht he appropriate flared nut and you have solved the entire issue. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

it does not matter if the lugs or bolts are stamped left or right. Most of the mechanics that we have are at best 20 years and they have never been taught that at one point intime there were left and right hand threaded studs or lug bolts so there is no reason for them to look at the stud or nut for the left indicator. These cars are not what they grew up with just like 6 volt positive ground. everything now is 12 volt neg graound. So As the owner it is your job to reminder them of the key point about your car and NOT ASSUME,AXX, that they the odd ball issues with your car. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

Hey Don you might be right about the pilot bushing diameter. The numbers that I gave him was for the splines onthe clutch plate hole and splines. Rich hartung