Sam Buchanan

You can't bend steel lines with your hands so you must be getting the softer stuff.....3/16" is a lot easier to work with.

You can bend the copper-nickel 3/16" lines with forefingers and thumbs. Just do one bend at a time.....

Well......it works on car bodies.......in both cases primer and paint seal filler from moisture.

Wouldn't body filler be better for a smooth finish than JB Weld? Sure does sand easier....

Exactly....no natural light....everything set up for cinematography. I'm always intrigued while watching the old movies how every shot of an actor's face (especially female) is set up with "portrait light" the same way it would be for a still photo.....and the background lighting coordinates with the foreground. No color to enhance scenes....just shades of gray. Very cool.

Man.....those B/W cinematographers sure knew how to light a scene.....

I would take them to a locksmith, I wouldn't trust the big box stores with valuable blanks..... A well-stocked local locksmith had generic blanks for my P15 and cut an extra set of keys for $10.

It can get weird. I built a StalkerV6 which is a version of the wonderful Lotus Seven with a '95 Camaro 3.4 V6 (Holley four-barrel) and S-10 transmission. It was inspected by the Alabama dept of revenue and registered as a 1959 Lotus Seven replica so it would not be subject to emission testing. Even though Alabama doesn't require vehicle inspections this came in handy when the car was sold and went to an emission-testing state.

Original brake lines on my 1948 P15 were 3/16" and that is what I used for the replacements.

That is exactly what I did a couple of times last week. The car and I felt refreshed after an hour touring the countryside. I'm almost certain I heard the little flatty chuckling.......

I really enjoy driving the P15 and I drive it often. However, I realize that a seemingly minor collision will most likely end my relationship with this car. I have classic car insurance through Heacock with a policy that has an agreed value of the car. If the car gets hit and repair estimates come in above ~%70 of the $15,000 value on the policy a check will appear in my mail instead of a repaired car in my garage. But the reality is that all it would take is a crumpled fender and damage to underlying structure or frame and it is a total write off even though most of the car is unscratched. You can barely drive a car through a body shop without coming out with a $10,000 repair bill.....paint can run almost that much even with no repair. So.....I guess the thing to do is just drive the thing, enjoy it, hoping for the best, and realize none of us, or our cars, are going to be here forever. Maybe some ambitious shop rat will buy the salvage and the resurrected P15 will live once again in a few years (with a salvage title!). ?

I think you will enjoy driving the 218......it's an eager little buddy that makes me grin every time...... ?

Sniper wanted a MoPar alternator. The Delco one-wire alternators sold by the vendor I linked do not need an external regulator. The installation for the one-wire units is very simple, just connect the alternator output to the lead that is presently on the regulator "Bat" terminal. That's it.....ammeter will still work normally. The old regulator can be tossed on the workbench or remain in the car to look purty....your choice.

Get a one-wire alternator and you won't need a regulator. Here is where I got mine: https://www.ebay.com/str/howardent This vendor also has a bracket: https://www.ebay.com/str/howardent/Universal-Alternator-Bracket/_i.html?_storecat=7040873016 Make sure you order an alternator with the correct pulley width to fit your application.

Nick, here is the thread about how I stopped the leaks on my transmission: https://p15-d24.com/topic/50800-chasing-transmission-leak-48-p15/?tab=comments#comment-538887 At this point it would be very easy for you to pull the transmission and reseal it. I had rather try that first than mess with the rear seal.

There may be some problems with the math. I ran those numbers with my 3.91 car and 3000rpm@65mph is reduced to 2100rpm @65mph by simply using a .70 correction. Does OD reduce rpm that much? That would result in 1800rpm@55mph..... A 4.11 final drive goes from 3200rpm@65 to 2200rpm@65mph with the ".70 OD". A 1000rpm drop?

Yes, might be a bad fuel pump and/or a restriction in the tank pickup or lines. I would think a healthy flatty would pull the 3.55 final but I have no personal experience with that setup. I was just showing how rpm degrades pretty quickly with changes in the final ratio. Aerodynamic drag increases with the square of speed so drag increases rapidly.

Just for comparison here are the numbers for my P15 with 3.91 final: 3.91, 28.36" tire diameter, 3000rpm = 64.76 mph Change this to 3.55: 3.55, 28.36", 2700rpm = 64.20 mph 300 rpm drop from the 3.91 ratio. The little 218 may not be making enough power at 2700 rpm to push the brick into the wind any faster....... It would be making even less power at 60 mph: 2550rpm = 60.63 mph All 95 angry horses don't appear until 3600rpm. Transmission ratio calculator: https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator

Does the engine pull strongly in 2nd gear all the way to red-line? If so.....too much final gear ratio?

We still have a ways to go to match these guys with big boy horns: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kDORB3vR8s

I don't think that was the problem. However, since I was wanting to get brakes on the car and get it roadworthy, I eventually just chucked the whole deal and installed a new standard master.....and immediately got a good pedal. I may revisit this again when I get bored and figure out why it didn't work. It is a 1" master cylinder, don't know if that is the best size or not.

I'll try to be more careful about what I post from now on....... ? Since I'm not "friends" with anyone I don't see social media posts on Facebook.

I resisted FB until recently when I decided I wanted access to Marketplace and a couple of car and aviation interest groups. I set my account with everything turned off so I don't have to put up with friend requests and other stuff. So far it has been stealthy and hassle-free.

Here is the thread: https://p15-d24.com/topic/50039-converting-p15-drumdrum-brakes-to-dual-chamber-master-cylinder/?tab=comments#comment-531646 Looks like it is 7/16-20.

Some states allow us to register the car with an original YOM (year of manufacture) tag. I purchased mine on eBay and the cool thing about it in Alabama is that there is no yearly property tax or tag fee assessed against the car. The tag doesn't expire and the fact 1948 tags had a black background was a pleasant bonus. The 1974 tag on the Beetle also matches the color of the car.......clean livin' I guess.....