Sam Buchanan

My hat is made out of tinfoil....... ? (Two layers of tinfoil with a liberal slathering of guacamole between them really works well!)

Unless dissimilar metals are exposed to salt moisture corrosion is more theoretical than practical. In aviation we always have a protective coating of some sort between aluminum and steel in case the aircraft is based near a coastline (aircraft can remain in service for decades). But with our old cars (or even new cars)..........phfffft..........not an issue. ?

You won't get messages from anyone if you turn off all social media options and notifications in your Facebook profile. But it takes a little digging and some 'puter savvy to find all the right switches.

Rich, I don't think the material of the plugs will have any significant effect on galvanic corrosion or deterioration of the engine block. However, the steel plugs would be expected to fail due to corrosion sooner than brass plugs because of steel's higher reactivity with an electrolyte. Brass is lower on the galvanic reactivity chart and that is why it is considered to have longer service life.

Even though I've been active online since the early days of the web (Compuserve!) I resisted the swamp that is FaceBook. However......I recently created a FaceBook account so I could access Marketplace and a few enthusiast groups. But I disabled ALL social media options in my account (friending, public listing, tracking, etc) so I am able to pretty much use FaceBook in a stealthy manner without any interaction with anyone else. I consider it another option for accessing places I want to see without intrusion from anything I don't want to see. So far my hermit-style account has been hassle-free.

We're discussing galvanic corrosion where an electrolyte must be present to promote the corrosion process. Salt water is the environment where galvanic corrosion most commonly occurs and is why boats often have a chunk of zinc attached to the hull as a sacrificial anode to protect the hull or metal fittings in contact with water. A galvanic reactivity chart is often used to predict how likely galvanic corrosion is to occur when two metals are in contact in the presence of an electrolyte. Metals that are close together on the chart are not prone to corrosion---the farther apart two metals are on the chart the more likely corrosion will occur. Here is a chart: https://www.pemnet.com/design_info/galvanic-corrosion/ Cast iron and brass are near the middle of the chart so while galvanic corrosion is possible under conditions that promote corrosion, they are not particularly prone to galvanic corrosion. Salt water would certainly increase the probability of corrosion but the modern coolants we use in our old cars are designed to inhibit corrosion. Even though cast iron and steel are next to each other on the chart and aren't going to undergo galvanic corrosion, both are much more reactive to an electrolyte and likely to corrode than brass. Bottom line...I would have absolutely no concerns about using brass plugs in my 218, especially with a sealer between the plug and block. I'll be long gone (and pigs will have wings?) before corrosion of the plugs or damage to the block will disable the engine. (Yep....I used to teach high school chemistry.....)

But I was interested to see the vendors/sources for wheels that would have been suggested by forum members.......those responses will not be available in the archives. Oh well.....we move on.......

I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night but am still sharp enough to find this link to one of these quirky commercials: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHCTaUFXpP8&list=PLzvTUNG--HJ2fFCph1_SeaxAatPngsMVp ?

They are probably still looking for that needle! ?

I agree...tried to send a message to our mod...but his mailbox doesn't accept messages......

My Android phone has the 'rotate' option under 'edit' when you have the image open in the gallery.

Here is a 60a from the vendor I used for $138 shipped: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-6-volt-60-amp-1-wire-GM-alternator-Positive-Ground-with-pulley/233191148378?hash=item364b468b5a:g:TxwAAOSw2XFUkg7W Here is a bracket if you need it: https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt/Universal-Alternator-Bracket/_i.html?_storecat=7040873016

Does a spacer or sumthin' need to be used in place of the valve?

That would be my guess.

Always interesting to see how much smaller folks were in 1938...... I'm envious of your car!

I really don't like jack stands but find them necessary. Here are the wood stands I use when there is going to be a lot of tugging and yanking...I trust these:

Before going any deeper I would put a new rotor and distributor cap on it. A worn rotor might be wobbling around and randomly disrupting the ignition.

They may be 3/16” with an OD of about 1/4”.

Yep.

What I noticed in the slow-mo is how freely the #1 lifters were spinning and the others didn't appear to be turning. Wonder if the valve lash is too loose on #1. But I have no idea if this has anything to do with the glitch....

You can be almost certain the entire brake system is corroded beyond repair. Brake fluid adsorbs moisture and 15 years is usually a death sentence. Instead of trying to repair the brakes piece meal your time and money would be better spent just stripping everything out and replacing the entire system so you will have brakes that are reliable for many years. A package with everything you need is available from vendors----I would have been ahead doing this on my P15 instead of trying to replace stuff one or two items at a time.....lesson learned. Very nice car, it will be worth whatever effort is needed to put it back on the road!

You can't bend steel lines with your hands so you must be getting the softer stuff.....3/16" is a lot easier to work with.

You can bend the copper-nickel 3/16" lines with forefingers and thumbs. Just do one bend at a time.....

Well......it works on car bodies.......in both cases primer and paint seal filler from moisture.