Sam Buchanan

That is a very clean installation....nice.

You might consider using some cushioning with the clamps to avoid the possibility of vibration causing chaffing which could compromise the tubing. Either cushioned clamps or some rubber fuel line around the tubing under the clamps should work. Also, be careful when working under the hood with a hot engine....those exposed tubes could inflict a nasty burn! There are reasons why rubber hoses are usually used for heaters.....

Congratulations on the sale, Scott! There comes a time when a project needs to go to a new home, I'm sure the new owner will enjoy it. If i makes you feel any better....there are still some bits and pieces of the Dodge in my shop. You have some great cars in the shop, now you can turn your full attention to them!

I replumbed the brakes (and fuel system) on the P15 with pre-flared bendable lines from the local auto parts stores. By carefully laying out the lines I could use various lengths, did all the bending with bare hands and didn't have to do any flaring and the cost was very reasonable. A reverse flare union joined two lines on the long runs. The flare nut wrenches are indeed a great addition to the tool box.

necessary text

The jam nut on the master end of the pushrod wasn't in place when the photo was made. The jams need to be tight....if the pushrod length changes serious brake problems could result.

When exploring this installation I fabricated a pushrod made of steel tube with a nut welded on one end and a bolt on the other. This allowed using the stock pushrod ends with adjustability. If going this route be sure you use jam nuts on each end to prevent the pushrod from rotating and unscrewing one of the ends.

Nick, I tried to snag some photos of the linkage on my car but couldn't get any angles that I thought would be helpful. If you can move the shifter through all the gears and the tranny output is verifying the different gears I think you will be safe in assuming everything is hooked up correctly. Your car really looks good!

Disconnect the battery, reverse the wires on the ammeter, and reconnect the battery. That should return the ammeter back to normal operation. And...........welcome to the forum! Lots of knowledgeable folks here, keep asking questions, you'll get the old car sorted out.

So you have to "hand choke" to start the hot engine? Sounds like a fuel delivery problem...may be vapor lock due to a fuel pump that can't tolerate heat. These cars came with a heat shield above the fuel pump to inhibit vapor lock. Also, make sure your fuel line is not really close to the exhaust manifold. Winter blend ethanol-contaminated gas has a high vapor pressure....doesn't take much to make it boil.

Wow....had me going there for a bit....was wondering if I needed to lock the garage door to keep my P15 out of trouble......

If you installed a new aftermarket regulator, and your old one was working last year, I suggest you put the old regulator back in the car. It is very likely the new one is DOA out of the box. A bad regulator wouldn't result in the symptoms you are seeing.....you have a faulty connection somewhere......or a dead battery.

The pinstripes are waaaay cool, see if you replicate them.

We never really finish one of these projects.....

We had a local pilot who used to be a check engineer for the B1 ground-following radar system. He said it was quite the experience to be flying near supersonic just over the trees! Yes, my can of tank sealant is reserved for a low and slow antique (4-wheel) vehicle flying at less than 0.1 mach....... ?

Hey.....no argument, the sealer is ten years past the expiration date. It would be a violation of whatever mil-specs are in play to use this batch on a B-1 bomber tank. But that has absolutely no relevance in regard to sealing a fuel sender on the P-15......I may still be using this sealer five years from now. I’ve never “served” but I have nearly 1400 hrs in the aircraft with tanks I sealed twenty years ago. I have a lot of experience with this particular product. Do you?

The fuel cap vents can be difficult to find, here is what they look like on my P15. There are two openings in the center portion of the cap: These are vented to four tiny openings in the underside of the outer rim of the cap: If these are plugged (mine were) use very fine wire to unplug them carefully and test with compressed air....this may be sorta tedious. In the course of trying get my old corroded fuel system working (before I yanked the whole mess and started over with new tank, lines and pump) I drilled a 3/32" hole in the underside of the filler neck to make sure the old cap didn't try to play any tricks....I consider this a useful backup to assure tank venting. This might not be the best option for a car that spends a lot of time parked in the rain.

Amen.

You guys need to relax......the sealer is stored in the refrigerator and it is good for odd jobs for years post expiration. I wouldn’t seal new aircraft tanks with that batch but it still adheres aggressively to a 1948 Plymouth. This is the same batch I used to seal the tranny last year. Find something else to worry about.....unless you have B-1 bomber tanks to seal (that’s what the sealer was developed for). ?

When I looked inside my P15's tank and the whole thing looked like alien life forms had taken up residence I yanked the tank and put in a new one....no point trying to work with that mess....72 years is long enough for one tank..... ?

Took a look at the sender today (Kanter) and it appears that is where fuel has been leaking. Mixed up a small batch of Flamemaster aircraft tank sealant and applied a glob over each pop rivet after scuffing with Scotchbrite and cleaning with acetone. That stuff will stick to anything! But I was surprised to find the terminal studs loose.....that could also cause leaks. Tightened the base nuts and reconnected everything, we'll see if that stops the leakage.

Maybe apply some fuel tank sealant around and over the rivets? Yes...it is aggravating to have to address somebody's engineering flaw. My "new" tank (passed my pressure test prior to installation) leaks fuel when nearly full, I'm gonna have to take a look at the two-wire sender I installed a few months ago.

A 10 gauge wire should handle 45-50 amp no longer than the run from alternator to battery, that will provide quite a bit of margin over what would be needed in normal ops. I put a 65a fuse in my alternator lead to protect against a dead short inside the alternator. Something is weird about your car's wiring---if wired per the schematic disconnecting the ammeter will kill the electrics since all loads go through the meter. Stay with it, this can be figured out.

Should be a great read.....but $95?