Sam Buchanan

Same here, short lengths of pre-flared brake line worked great for my filter installation:

Is this the same product I need for replacing the driver side window in my P15? Any field history on sourcing a window other than local auto glass shops?

Seek out your local farm supply store that sells batteries for tractors (Tractor Supply in my neck of the woods), they will have 6v wet-cell batteries. You should get several years out of one if you use an alternator that keeps it charged all the time. The old-school batteries worked pretty well when our cars were youths....and they still do (with proper cables).

Keith, you should be able to jack up the tranny enough to slip the mounts out to replace them. However, I don't know the solution for obtaining a mount with the proper resilience, may take some experimentation. I've seen Chrysler mounts with holes drilled in them, might be worth getting a couple extra next time you order some parts and try modifying mounts until you get what you want. Congrats on the trans overhaul and getting your neat car back on the road!

Glad your one battery, alternator system is working well. It took you awhile to get here.....but now you should be good to go. The endearing quality of our old cars is their simplicity......

It is a cool display.......great garage wall art. ?

I have to ask......why would there be a retail market for dipsticks?? It's not like they wear out.......maybe somebody misplaced their dipstick.....left it on the fender then drove off.......used it for roasting marshmallows over a fire and melted it??? ?

Wouldn't introducing additional air into the intake manifold upset the fuel mixture, making the engine run leaner? The PCV systems I'm familiar with return crankcase flow to the air cleaner so the carb jetting won't be altered.

As you are doing your best Dukes of Hazard imitation the tranny would only rise up enough to pull the lower washers against the cross member, maybe 3/16"? You'll need to be more concerned about how Daisy critiques your driving technique. ?

Keith, that’s how my mounts are installed and the engine is smooth. I haven’t detected anything that feels like the bottom washer touching the crossmember. The tranny just rides on the upper mount.

Wonder how long it would take me to stop trying to find second gear with the turn signal stalk..............

And an alternator.....

Very sorry for your loss of your friend........... As a pilot the loss of life in aviation accidents hits very close to home......my condolences to family and friends.

I think I would want something to keep the driver cool on a day like that.......maybe a late-model F150...... ?

Just got back from Lowes, had to have one of these inexpensive fender covers. It is certainly priced right (clearance $4.99) but I find the moving blanket to be more comfortable when leaning on our large fenders. Spring clamps are still necessary to hold it securely in place on the big fenders, but it should work nicely on a modern car with narrow fenders. The ridges are designed to hold tools but after having a wrench slide off the fender and ricochet off the stainless grill trim ? I don't leave tools on a fender blanket.....(that dent was there when I bought the car....probably somebody else's tool....).

Still available...only 26" x 34"....might be a little small for our big ol' fenders....but a great price....a trip to Lowes tomorrow. https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-Automotive-Fender-Cover/1001345028

I use two small spring clamps to attach them to the fender at the hood line.

I caught Habba Fright's 40x72 moving blankets on sale for $3.99. Cut one in half and you have two perfectly-sized fender blankets. Keep another full-size one on hand for a quick slide under the car.

Keith, In my 1946-54 Plymouth Service Manual the illustration posted by greg g along with the description is in the engine section, page 151. If I recall correctly, beginning in the early '50's the additional rubber washer was added to prevent the left mount bottom metal washer from touching the frame during hard acceleration as the engine torques to the right. I doubt the little Six in your '38 will develop enough torque for this to be a problem. I recommend you read all the thread I linked earlier in this thread for a lot of info about the mounts. I ended up deleting the bottom mounts in order to eliminate harsh vibration. Many aftermarket mounts are made of rubber that is too firm.....this is discussed in the thread I linked. There is a lot of confusion about the mounts, the ones we purchase now do not resemble the lower mounts in the manual illustration. Also detailed in my thread.

What's the title of the album? ?

This thread may have some useful info: https://p15-d24.com/topic/50844-engine-mounts-p15-caution/?tab=comments#comment-539481

When I replaced the water pump on the P15 I got ahead of myself and installed the pulley and fan before realizing I had not previously installed the generator bracket. Instead of removing the fan and pulley so the water pump bolt could be removed I "slotted" the hole in the bracket so the bolt would only need to be loosened a few turns and the bracket slid into place under the head of the bolt. This doesn't compromise the bracket since it is held in place in compression by tension on the fan belt. The bolt tightened back up with no water leakage.

The hole saws I buy at Lowes are pretty good quality. Don't overheat them and make sure the work is clamped down securely.

Since the alternator keeps the battery fully charged when the car is in use and I've never seen the alternator charge a really dead battery, I don't know the answer to your question. The most I've ever seen after the car sits for a week or so is about 1/3 scale deflection for a few seconds then the needle eases back to near zero in a minute or so as the car idles. If the battery has been idle for a long time putting a charger on it prior to startup would address this concern and also keep the alternator from working as hard.

No light needed, this is a one wire system. And it works beautifully.