Sam Buchanan

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Houston.....we have a problem..... The plate that is being referenced on eBay measures 1" x 4". The plate in a P15 measures 1" x 3". The eBay plate is too big.

You have a great photographer.....I thought you were older than that........... ?

Don't know if this is what you want but you can see where the black field was formatted and the fonts (1948 P15). I am assuming you aren't going to copy my serial number....... ?

I was going to suggest moving the #6 wire all the way up with the rotor pointing at the #1 plug wire....no need to remove spark plugs. ?

What are the odds MPT is the same oil as in the Red Line bottles? https://www.amazon.com/MPT-Industries-MPT386-Transmissions-Transaxles/dp/B07CW44CM2

Why would we run the engine with the #6 inspection plug removed? Inquiring minds....... ?

Might be kinda hard with that thermostat housing sitting on top of #1......

Our cars should be less prone to vapor lock with non-contaminated gas since ethanol has a lower vapor pressure than pure gas. However.....when I tried using non-ethanol gas to reduce carb percolation I really couldn't tell a difference. The car still has to crank longer than usual to clear the fuel puddling in the intake manifold. Any of the fuels we have today are superior to what was available at the country store in the 40's. Octane ratings of 60-70 were common in the 40's, hence the low compression engines in our cars.

Yes, open the throttle to accelerate and the wipers stop on my P15.....so you back off to get a couple of swipes, and then resume accelerating. ? Or.....keep a good layer of RainX on the windshield.

That is a fine ride!

Is it the same resource as this online parts manual? http://www.amsnos.com/Help/MMPCPRE54.pdf

Ok...I see what is going on, eBay UK has the manuals listed with British prices but they are shipped from US vendors.....sneaky. Here is some info from the Resources section of the forum with an engine table: https://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/reference/reference_information.html/ Looks like the '42 and '50 Plymouths both had 218 engines. Compression ratios may be slightly different, there are knowledgeable folks in here that can enlighten us. My manual says '48 (which I think is same as '42) had 6.6:1 compression, '50 had 7.0:1 for an increase of two hp.

eBay UK has the manual listed as both hard copy and CD.

This is the manual that is commonly used, it will have all the info you need: https://www.themotorbookstore.com/1946-1954-plymouth-service-manual.html?cmp=googleproducts&kw=1946-1954-plymouth-service-manual&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw8jCv5Xr6QIVEoTICh0hVQ8AEAQYASABEgLmivD_BwE

No....you probably won't find anyone here that knows that.......... ?

Sorry 'bout that....... ? To make this even simpler, the cable housing really isn't necessary. A bare length of wire would work fine since the release only has to function one time.

I checked with them, $75+ by the time they ship it. I don't need the vent glass. These internet vendors seem to know what their compadres are charging.....seems ~$75-80 is the going rate for a door glass by the time it lands on your doorstep.

Appreciate the referral but no locations in my state. Their price is the same as what I'm paying with the other vendor....$75 seems to be the going rate for flat door glass delivered from well-equipped vendors. Bernbaum has similar catalog price but adds large shipping fees and long delivery time.

Here ya go, notes on how I built my brake tool: https://p15-d24.com/topic/50182-brake-adjustment-tool-updated/?tab=comments#comment-532931

Yep, I was planning on supporting the only glass shop I could find within 25 miles of me that would cut laminated glass until I was quoted $175 for the one window and told the corners might not match my original. I ordered the glass from Sanders Reproduction Glass and even though it has to be shipped all the way across the continent total cost is $76. Hope it fits....and that I don't break it....

I need to replace the cracked glass in the driver door. Anyone with a recommendation for a vendor? Front Door Glass P15 4-dr sedan Special Deluxe with flipper vent Thanks!

I'm pretty sure a hot generator will produce less current due to increased resistance of the wire in the windings. So I think you will lose genny capacity as you add load and heat (electrical and ambient). Most likely you'll be running a current deficit with all the lights on especially at low rpm. It may take a while to pull a healthy battery down, but the lights won't be full bright....and the starter may be sluggish after the ice cream stop. But fortunately there is a very nice remedy that will pull anything you can install on your car....and keep the battery happy. ?

The hood release inside the cabin is a nice touch on my '48, but I've often wondered how in the world would I release the hood if something broke in the release cable. The front of the car is pretty much assembled from the inside out and releasing a captive hood, though no doubt possible, would be a major aggravation. I decided a belt and suspenders approach could alleviate this unfortunate scenario. Here is a little shop project that won't take more than an hour but could prevent many hours of frustrations. All we need is an emergency hood release. The release is a short length of flex cable, a handle made out of a piece of tubing and a bug nut. The cable has a Z-bend on one end which fits in a small hole drilled in the hood release latch. The other end of the cable goes through the inner left front fender: Here is the release handle inside the inner fender, completely out of the way until it needs to save the day: The release works flawlessly.....and a kidnapped hood latch will no longer be on my "Awwwh SHOOT!" list. ?

Wow.......that was really productive......