Sam Buchanan

Excellent! I was sure you would like the improvement once the timing was reset. ? I suspect your plugs will clear up pretty quickly because your engine will now have higher combustion temps with proper timing. You can continue using them as long as they don't mis-fire. If the plugs continue to look sooty they'll be telling you the mixture is too rich and you can start trouble shooting the carb.....or they are sooted up past the point of return. I would put in a new set if the budget allows so you can reset everything back to where it should be. Would also make it easier to troubleshoot a potential mixture issue if you start with clean plugs. You have added something valuable to your skill set toolbox today. Keep tinkering, and don't hesitate to ask questions. Your grandfather would be proud of you. ?

Forget about "advancing" or "retarding" the distributor. Just move the distributor whatever direction it takes to get the pointer as close as possible to 0 when the engine is idling....we don't really care which way you turn it, just get the pointer and 0 degrees to line up when idling. If they won't line up then get them as close as possible then reply with what number is under the pointer and whether 0 is above or below the pointer in your photo. Hang in there...you'll get it figured out.

" the marks get farther apart" Which marks are you referring to? Are you referring to the pointer as one of the marks? I think we are dancing around semantics..... Turn the distributor whichever way is necessary to get the pointer to line up with the black mark at 0 when the engine is idling. Then tell us how close to 0 you were able to get if you can't get it all the way to 0 (another photo would be great...be careful around the fan!). As was mentioned in a previous post there is another adjustment bolt on the bottom of the distributor. But I suspect the ignition points gap is out of spec if you can't rotate the distributor enough to achieve 0 timing at idle. Let's get the timing correct and worry about the carb later.

Ok....I gave you some bad information in my original post, got backwards the direction the marks will move as the engine is revved. Thanks for prompting me to go out to the garage, hook up the timing light and check this on my car. (I'm almost to the point where I can hide my own Easter eggs....) As the engine is revved, the timing will appear to move TOWARDS you. In your photo of your engine idling, the marker should be at 0. Your engine is timed eight degrees too retarded which will really kill the responsiveness of the engine. As you rev the engine, the marker should move from zero toward the numbers at the bottom of the photo (I'm assuming the photo was taken from the left side of the car). Advance the timing to bring it to zero as the engine is idling, then as you advance the throttle see if it moves 'down' to about 4-5 degrees. If so......you are good to go. If it needs slight tweaking, do so to achieve about 4 degrees with maximum advance....then drive the car for a road test. These low-compression engines are pretty tolerant of ignition advance, some folks run more (my engine is running 8-9 degrees according to the numbers on the balancer) but the numbers I suggested should give you a very drivable engine. There is an outside chance the harmonic balancer on your engine is faulty and the number scale has slipped but let's assume for now that is not the case.

I'm not sure which marks you are trying to "lineup" but you want to see about 4 degrees before top dead center hit the indicator after you rev up the engine. In other words, as you lean over the left fender, as you rev the engine timing should advance to the 4 degree mark the farthest away from you. (CORRECTION: Should have said "4 degree mark closest to you".) Another way to verify this is the timing should be at about zero when the engine is idling. These settings may not be the absolute optimum for your engine but will get you very close and yield a nicely running engine. I sounds like your engine timing is very much retarded now, but the good news is the timing advance system is working since the timing advances as you increase rpm. If your engine timing is indeed retarded now.....be prepared for a pleasant surprise on your first drive after you get the timing correct. One other thing.....your plugs are not fouled, they are just sooty....most likely from running a too rich mixture (or timing so retarded incomplete combustion occurs?). Fouled plugs won't fire.

What if he's a Republican? ?

Little or no fabrication? No.

Weight advantage?? What your honorable father was employing was an ingenious and appropriate application of the polar characteristics of the ferrous content of terra firma's core which results in a gravitational attraction to all objects dependent on their mass and distance from the center of the earth. Be respectful, young man. ?

I'd suggest you might not have hit on the right fuel/air combination to get the old girl to fire up. Hook up the gas can again, get the pump to filling the bowl, pull on a bit of choke, and make it start.

Maybe even a classic! ?

Gotta keep in mind we are just a bunch of grumpy old men........................ ?

Still using the ammeter, it works as it should. While I was troubleshooting the old generator and regulator I installed a voltmeter....I left it in place after upgrading to the alternator since it was in an out-of-the-way location and is actually a better indicator of the charging system status.

Go to the auto parts store and get some PB Blaster or Kroil which should be more effective than WD40.

#7 is the one that often gets overlooked. There are 13 total.

Nick, build the car you want......you don't have to please anyone else. ?

If there is a conflict between manifold and fuel pump an electric pump will easily solve the problem.

mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

This is the puller you need: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tapered-Axle-Drum-Brake-Wheel-Hub-Puller-Universal-Remover-Tool-Bearing-Mechanic/402307836174?hash=item5dab6a690e:g:WPAAAOSwAhxe9dun

Here is an assortment of 3M Finesse-It products on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=finesse-it+3m&crid=J62BZI8WMNSV&sprefix=finesse-it%2Caps%2C170&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_10 You will easily use a quart on the whole car. Here is the particular product I used most recently: https://www.amazon.com/3M-05928-Finesse-Machine-Polish/dp/B0006GBTP8/ref=sr_1_4?crid=J62BZI8WMNSV&dchild=1&keywords=finesse-it+3m&qid=1593306822&sprefix=finesse-it%2Caps%2C170&sr=8-4 I use a lambs wool pad on a large buffer, either an orbital or rotary. Wet sand the paint down to at least 1500 grit then settle in for quality time with the buffer. ? Also get a spur tool for cleaning the wool pad: https://www.amazon.com/Polishing-Revitalizing-Polisher-Compound-Canopus/dp/B073HKBHX8/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=wool+buffing+pad+rake&qid=1593307218&sr=8-3

Nick, money spent on professional finishing compound is worthwhile. Find a local auto paint jobber and get their suggestion. I've used a product called FinessIt, don't know if it is still available, may have been replaced by something even better. ALL the orange peel must be sanded off and then.....a lot of buffing. The proper pad is also important. The hood looks good, but there is still more gloss to be had. ?

The fuse in my headlight switch appears to be a SFE 30a (1/4" x 1 7/16"). The 30a AGC is shorter. My local NAPA store has them in stock.

That is the exactly the stupid idea I have been considering.....and suggested in post #5. ?

On a related note. Is there a "modern" replacement headlight switch that can be adapted to our original knob? The parking light step in my switch doesn't work and it may just be a matter of time before the headlight position gets flaky.

Thanks, Greg, I'll pull mine to check it and put a couple of spares in the glove box. But if the fuse blows, the replacement almost certainly will, too.....

No, just the lights go out. The ignition is wired hot with no fuse.....you can still hold a good flashlight out the window.......or get another motorist to fly formation with you....... ? I agree that having all lights on one fuse isn't the best arrangement, that is why I mentioned replacing it with a breaker. But a breaker will have to be mounted somewhere other than the switch and I assume in the line between the ammeter and switch. The other option is the addition of a fuse panel that breaks out individual lighting circuits through separate fuses. That involves major changes to the wiring architecture. But....if a breaker trips there is a problem that is best addressed with the AAA card...... ?