Sam Buchanan
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Everything posted by Sam Buchanan
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No regulator. I've never measured the pressure of the 6v Carter pump but there are no indications of any pressure issues, the carb seems to be happy.
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I think you are considering increasing the complexity of the fuel system four-fold. The relay is unnecessary, as is the separator. The inertia switch is a bit controversial, I ran an electric pump in the P15 for a year without the switch, and still have second thoughts about it after I installed it....just something else to fail. Not sure an engine fire is our biggest risk in a car that has no passenger crash protection........ All you need to make your car run nicely is a mechanical fuel pump block-off plate, an electric pump, some wire and a fuse. The other items are wants. ?
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Is somebody marketing my tool?? I haven't gotten a royalty payment yet.......... The cheap copy you got with the defective nut is what you get with an unauthorized clone.......... ?
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Then he doesn't know squat.....unless he has eyeballs calibrated to a few thousandths....... ? If the drums are out-of-round you won't be able to get a complete adjustment of the brakes (pedal won't be as high as it could be). I drove my P15 for six months with rear drums that needed turning and after they were turned and the brakes readjusted the pedal was 1.5" higher. Definitely worth the effort.
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how to simply close my account on this forum....
Sam Buchanan replied to dontknowitall's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Yes....sometimes life points us in a different direction and our priorities must change. Best wishes and thank you for your contributions to the archives. ? -
Looks good.
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That is pretty clever. ?
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What are you needing in addition to the files I uploaded? Maybe the little cutouts around the rivets? The files I made should be higher res than something pulled from a photo.
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A new nut will give you much better results.
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I still have the brass float, intend to repair it...one of these days. It has a substantial flaw, the repair will add weight. The new float is not solid, it is some sort of plastic and hollow. Here is the link in case anyone needs a new B&B float: https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Carter-Float_p_2998.html
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Another variable in my case is the installation of an aftermarket float. The brass float sprang a leak so it was replaced with the only float I could find, a composite float from Mike's Carburetors. I don't know if the new float has the same buoyancy as the brass float so the spec measurement of 5/64" may not be optimum. I'll probably try lowering the float some more, the electric fuel pump shouldn't have any problems keeping the bowl full.
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The reason I'm convinced my car suffers from carb percolation is if I attempt a restart shortly after the hot engine is shut down it will fire immediately. But let the hot engine sit for 15 minutes and it will need to crank for several seconds before it starts. It seems to me a weak coil would make any hot restart difficult. Are you suggesting dropping the float a total of 1/8" or 1/8" lower than spec? I made a float gauge for the standard spec and lowered the float a little more than that but not nearly an 1/8". Maybe I need to lower it some more?
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I'll see if I can create a Photoshop file for you from my tag photo. Ok, see if this is any help, it is a jpeg sized at 1" x 3" @ 150 dpi (download this link). The font and serial box are the same dimension as my P15 tag. Here is a file with only the black background, overlay this link over a blank piece of 1x3 stainless and you will have a serial tag ready for engraving:
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The reason I made the switch to an alternator is because the genny and/or regulator in my car had gotten flaky (finally died) and I didn't want to spend money running down that rabbit trail when I could spend $135 on an alternator that won't need any maintenance (or a regulator).....and works better than the generator. It was a no-brainer.
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The 6v alternator from Howard is $40 less because shipping is included in the $133 price.
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There was a question about the alternator that was shipped to me from Howard, and he was very concerned and helpful via phone about making sure everything was as it should be. Excellent personal customer service.
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Here is the vendor I used for the 6v alternator in my P15: https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 You didn't state whether you need six or twelve volt and what polarity but this vendor has an alternator that will work. I'm very pleased with mine and it is a straight forward conversion, you get to ditch the regulator which is a big plus in my opinion.
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need for speed in an antique car or truck
Sam Buchanan replied to desoto1939's topic in P15-D24 Forum
And that is the best description of why we drive these old cars that I've seen........ -
need for speed in an antique car or truck
Sam Buchanan replied to desoto1939's topic in P15-D24 Forum
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Houston.....we have a problem..... The plate that is being referenced on eBay measures 1" x 4". The plate in a P15 measures 1" x 3". The eBay plate is too big.
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You have a great photographer.....I thought you were older than that........... ?
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Don't know if this is what you want but you can see where the black field was formatted and the fonts (1948 P15). I am assuming you aren't going to copy my serial number....... ?
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I was going to suggest moving the #6 wire all the way up with the rotor pointing at the #1 plug wire....no need to remove spark plugs. ?
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What are the odds MPT is the same oil as in the Red Line bottles? https://www.amazon.com/MPT-Industries-MPT386-Transmissions-Transaxles/dp/B07CW44CM2
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Why would we run the engine with the #6 inspection plug removed? Inquiring minds....... ?
