Sam Buchanan

Maybe even a classic! ?

Gotta keep in mind we are just a bunch of grumpy old men........................ ?

Still using the ammeter, it works as it should. While I was troubleshooting the old generator and regulator I installed a voltmeter....I left it in place after upgrading to the alternator since it was in an out-of-the-way location and is actually a better indicator of the charging system status.

Go to the auto parts store and get some PB Blaster or Kroil which should be more effective than WD40.

#7 is the one that often gets overlooked. There are 13 total.

Nick, build the car you want......you don't have to please anyone else. ?

If there is a conflict between manifold and fuel pump an electric pump will easily solve the problem.

mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

This is the puller you need: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tapered-Axle-Drum-Brake-Wheel-Hub-Puller-Universal-Remover-Tool-Bearing-Mechanic/402307836174?hash=item5dab6a690e:g:WPAAAOSwAhxe9dun

Here is an assortment of 3M Finesse-It products on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=finesse-it+3m&crid=J62BZI8WMNSV&sprefix=finesse-it%2Caps%2C170&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_10 You will easily use a quart on the whole car. Here is the particular product I used most recently: https://www.amazon.com/3M-05928-Finesse-Machine-Polish/dp/B0006GBTP8/ref=sr_1_4?crid=J62BZI8WMNSV&dchild=1&keywords=finesse-it+3m&qid=1593306822&sprefix=finesse-it%2Caps%2C170&sr=8-4 I use a lambs wool pad on a large buffer, either an orbital or rotary. Wet sand the paint down to at least 1500 grit then settle in for quality time with the buffer. ? Also get a spur tool for cleaning the wool pad: https://www.amazon.com/Polishing-Revitalizing-Polisher-Compound-Canopus/dp/B073HKBHX8/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=wool+buffing+pad+rake&qid=1593307218&sr=8-3

Nick, money spent on professional finishing compound is worthwhile. Find a local auto paint jobber and get their suggestion. I've used a product called FinessIt, don't know if it is still available, may have been replaced by something even better. ALL the orange peel must be sanded off and then.....a lot of buffing. The proper pad is also important. The hood looks good, but there is still more gloss to be had. ?

The fuse in my headlight switch appears to be a SFE 30a (1/4" x 1 7/16"). The 30a AGC is shorter. My local NAPA store has them in stock.

That is the exactly the stupid idea I have been considering.....and suggested in post #5. ?

On a related note. Is there a "modern" replacement headlight switch that can be adapted to our original knob? The parking light step in my switch doesn't work and it may just be a matter of time before the headlight position gets flaky.

Thanks, Greg, I'll pull mine to check it and put a couple of spares in the glove box. But if the fuse blows, the replacement almost certainly will, too.....

No, just the lights go out. The ignition is wired hot with no fuse.....you can still hold a good flashlight out the window.......or get another motorist to fly formation with you....... ? I agree that having all lights on one fuse isn't the best arrangement, that is why I mentioned replacing it with a breaker. But a breaker will have to be mounted somewhere other than the switch and I assume in the line between the ammeter and switch. The other option is the addition of a fuse panel that breaks out individual lighting circuits through separate fuses. That involves major changes to the wiring architecture. But....if a breaker trips there is a problem that is best addressed with the AAA card...... ?

Nope, won't work. Here is the fuse in the P15 headlight switch. There is a glass fuse in the cylindrical holder.

Hmmm, gonna have to take a another look. Last time I looked it appeared the fuse was the same shape and size as a regular glass fuse, don't see how that rectangular fuse would fit the switch.

Ok....for those of us that have a headlight switch with a built-in fuse, what are our options? What kind of breaker (part number, application, current rating, etc) and where do we put it? In the lead between the ammeter and headlight switch? Then we put a slug or something in the switch fuse holder? Or maybe a box of slow-blow fuses in the glove compartment........what size fuses are used in the switch?

In that case you should be safe to assume the oil didn't come from the cylinder.

Seems that if there is enough raw oil in the combustion chamber to push past a loose spark plug that you would have severe plug fouling problems......

A cork float fuel cap gauge is common in some of the antique aircraft. I've purchased corks at the hardware store (Lowes the last time I needed them) and after they are sealed with a thin coat of tank sealant (in the olden days shellac was used) they will last several years. I see no reason why this wouldn't work with an automotive sender if someone was determined to save an old sender. The photo shows two corks working in tandem.

My comments were not directed at international shipping. Fortunately here in the USA we have USPS which offers inexpensive shipping with tracking for small parts. I use it frequently with high percentage of reliable results. If it is good enough for a major aircraft supply vendor it should be good enough for a smaller vendor shipping old car bits and pieces. ?

I guess what kinda hacks me off is Bernbaum insisting on shipping a small, light part UPS for $14 when it could be dropped into a padded envelope and shipped priority mail for $3. That is why I consider their shipping fees on small parts to be a "profit tax", it would add up to a huge margin over the course of a month's shipments. No doubt a good business plan for them, but frustrating on our end.

I don't want to vendor bash....but that inflated shipping charge is just a back-handed way to jack up the price of the product. Sorta insults my intelligence.....I've bought quite a bit of stuff from Berbaum but only as a last resort.