Sam Buchanan
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Everything posted by Sam Buchanan
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Your '51 has more room to work with and probably a thicker/stronger pillar than my '48 with its suicide doors, . Really wish I could squeeze a retractor in there without impinging on the rear floor.
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Thank you, I missed the context of the statement about the 1/4" bolts. I think a lot of our discussion about enhancing safety in these old cars is entirely speculative (and maybe futile?) since these structures weren't designed with safety in mind. Probably the most accurate prediction about a severe crash is that these cars will cave in like a Coke can with unfortunate outcomes for the occupants regardless of seatbelt design. The lap belts in my P15 are mostly a placebo since an F150 is barely going to slow down as it crushes the old Plymouth......
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The seat won't go far......you'll be impaled between the seat and steering column...... I really wish my car had a shoulder harness for the driver....the lap belt won't keep me from being speared by the column. By the way, I've never seen seatbelts secured with 1/4" bolts. All the belts kits I've had came with much larger hardware.
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I have the seat all the way back and don't want a retractor in the backseat floorboard blocking access through the door, haven't figured out how to make this work. A solution might be non-retractable shoulder belts but they are a bit unwieldy to stow.
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All the details from Coker: https://www.cokertire.com/tires/h78-15-coker-classic-3-whitewall-tire.html 28.36", 3" whitewall
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Coker H78 15" bias ply tires, standard rims:
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Please do, am eager to see how you worked with the very limited space in the four-door.
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Vibration Quandry after New Clutch Installation
Sam Buchanan replied to Hamilton's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Sounds like the infamous engine/transmission mount dragon has reared its ugly head again.................. https://p15-d24.com/topic/50844-engine-mounts-p15-caution/?tab=comments#comment-539481 -
For those who might be following this thread, here is the groove and surface erosion on the crank damper on my 218 (no, the journal isn't cracked, it is a surface flaw): And the Speedi-sleeve installed, I filled the groove with JB Weld prior to installing the sleeve.
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Have you considered a Speedi-sleeve?
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Read the original post...the clutch works for two gears.
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The ones you referenced are the standard bulbs and have less than half the candlepower (3 candlepower) as the microscope bulbs (7 candlepower). That is why the microscope bulbs are the hot setup. You need two bulbs. Buy the microscope bulbs and only do this job once.
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The microscope boobs....er....bulbs are these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-1946-1947-1948-extra-bright-tail-light-bulb-63-replacement-6-volt-63/161410757417?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
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That is probably where the noise was coming from....was in my case. I didn't want the heat riser flap stuff so installed a block-off plate between the manifolds. I plug-welded a tab onto a bolt to plug the flap shaft holes in the manifold.
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It is unlikely your transmission is broken, most likely the linkage is not properly adjusted. I assume you have the service manual for your car and the linkage is connected properly. I would start with adjusting the gear selector rod as shown in the image below. If everything is good with the transmission you will find a setting that will allow you to shift into all gears. If the transmission has been disassembled the shift forks may not be correctly installed: Once again, your manual is your friend.
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My First Car -- P15 1947 Plymouth Deluxe
Sam Buchanan replied to NickPickToo's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Nick, if you want to refine the appearance you could take an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel and knock of the ends of the bolts even with the nuts. Give the ends of the cut-off bolts a dab of POR-15 for corrosion protection. Nobody is going to be crawling under your car and the floors will look fantastic with 2" shag carp.........er, a new plush carpet kit. ? -
I found the microscope bulbs to be a big improvement over the standard bulbs. Might be a good idea to verify you have good grounds at the bulbs.
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For clarification: The one-wire alternator I have on my P15 is for 6v system (these alternators are available for either neg or positive ground) and doesn't require the inclusion of an indicator light. I don't know about the need to spin up past idle since my alternator is charging as soon as I look at the ammeter.
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I think it would be inadvisable to go to as much trouble as you have and not replace the gasket between the manifolds, it likely has been compromised over time.
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Another place to check: https://www.carburetor-parts.com/
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Bigger hammer...........
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Do you have the floorboard removed? If so I think you can pull the cylinder out with the pedals attached so you can work with the whole assembly on the work bench. Working from above gives you some better angles than doing everything under the car. I don't recall a particular gotcha when I swapped out master cylinders....you are probably just dealing with some wear/gunk on the pedal shaft.
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Containing the coolant within the system in a liquid state but under higher than atmospheric pressure raises the boiling point of the coolant. Water boils at 212*F at sea level, but if contained in a closed system the boiling point can be raised considerably. The coolant remains in the liquid phase even as temp exceeds the sea level boiling point. Steam isn't present in the system until the elevated boiling point is exceeded and at that point the game is over. Pressure ramps way up drastically and the cap relieves the pressure as gaseous and liquid dihydrogen monoxide is released.
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Answer to first question; Sawzall (the bolt, not the pipe). You want new bolts with anti-seize in the flange when you put it back together. Second question; Yes, unless you want to mop up the shop floor.
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Proper size cables are huge and easily sourced online:
