Sam Buchanan

"Very weak" compared to what? Yes, they may feel 'weak' compared to the light touch required with modern power assisted brakes. But properly adjusted (but you have to know the proper technique!) the brakes shouldn't cause any concern if you use a firm foot and drive at speeds our car's engineers intended.

Here the guide pins I made from bolts, but I doubt they would be absolutely necessary if you can stand over the transmission as you insert the input shaft. You have far better access than those of us who were working inside/under the car.

Wow...what a mess! ? Here is how I connected the signal switch to the harness in my '48. I also rewired the rear lights so I have three brake lights. Enjoy your new ride!

I too use the Signal Stat and it is a good switch. Here is how I tied the switch's wires into the car's harness. This also makes it easy to tap a 6v source or connect a remote signal indicator. I removed one of the radio knob blanks and put a green LED in its place for an easy-to-see indicator.

There are a lot of our cars with reliable electrical systems without all those ground straps. You might start with making sure you have good grounds between the battery, engine and frame and only add other grounds if you need them. These are the only ground leads on my car and the starter and lights work fine. Battery to engine, battery to frame. Make sure all your lights have good body grounds.

That's my guess, too. I would expect a bad throw-out to whine or squeal but I hope that is all it'll need. But since it has a little chatter a clutch refresh is probably in order.

This may be one of those posts that is too ambiguous to address but I thought it might trigger some useful info. My '48 P15 has a rattle (I thought it was the hood, a fender liner or other body part at first) as the clutch is released in first gear since it has a little bit of chatter. It only occurs if the clutch pedal is depressed. With the clutch depressed, I can cause the rattle by barely blipping the throttle. I don't hear it when changing to 2nd or 3rd gear. Throw-out bearing? Pressure plate with something loose? Clutch disc wobbling? Faulty damper springs in clutch disc? Pilot bearing? Input shaft bearing worn? Any suggestions from the old hands will be appreciated. The car drives beautifully, just thinking it is trying to tell me something.....

Top two look like they may be sooty/oily but upload another photo with the center electrodes facing the camera.

Be sure you are familiar with this technical article located on our forum: https://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/

The P15 does not have a pressure cooling system, it is an open vent to the atmosphere. A pressure cap can be used but it doesn't have any function other than keeping the coolant from sloshing out the radiator. Since no pressure, an overflow tank serves no purpose. Best to leave coolant an inch or so below the top of the radiator so it won't slosh out the vent tube during high-G ? right turns.

The above link is for 12v bulbs. Mine came from O'Reilly Auto Parts: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/eiko-lighting/eiko-clear-h6006-halogen-bulb/eik0/h6006?q=6006&pos=4 Halogen, 6v, 40/50 watt, $12 each. Work well at P15 speeds. ?

I think the only sealed beams you can buy now will be halogen, just make sure they are 6v. There are, however, different flavors of sealed beams, some with higher output than others. I bought the lower priced common ones.

Ya really think so?????? ? There is no such thing as privacy when we use the internet......

I was initially concerned about driving my P15 in the dark after seeing discussion about the old 6v headlights. However, after doing the following: New 6v halogen sealed beams Making a new ground in the headlight shell Rebuilding the terminal strip at the radiator Installing a properly-sized ground cable from the battery to the body Installing an alternator Verifying good connections at the dimmer and headlight switch Aiming the lights The car has perfectly satisfactory headlights. The 6v system works very nicely when everything is as it should be. The terminal strip at the radiator must be in good condition:

That is a chassis ground, goes to a bolt on the radiator support that was convenient.

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/1-0-gauge-battery-cables-0-awg

https://www.youtube.com/c/CarWizard/videos

It was an educated guess....

The fitting on top of the tank is probably for a vent and the silver fitting is the vent itself. It would be connected to the elbow with a hose and located significantly higher than the tank. However, if you already have a vented fuel cap you can just plug the vent opening on the tank. Yes, there should be a pickup tube in the tank. The gasket should be ok as is but some sealant is ok if that is what you wish to do.

Put a AAA card in your wallet and have a great trip!

Yep, a new tank is the final solution and the only one that guarantees a trouble-free future. Pay a little more than what the repair costs and be done.

Or.....have him add a bung with 1/8" NPT threads so you can connect a new fuel line and plug the old filtered line.

There is nothing like B/W prints made from a large-format (4x5 or larger) negative. Georgous.

I don't recall what size fittings but they are the same as found on brake lines with "American" (not metric) threads. No need to order this stuff, just source it from a local auto parts store as needed. That way you can return items that either don't fit or you don't need. I plumbed the entire fuel and brake systems on my P15 with brake lines purchased locally.

Then there is the rubber hose held to your ear method.....