Sam Buchanan

What's the point? We're gonna drive them regardless. ?

Ok....I don't believe you mentioned in your first post that the 94 you purchase is non-contaminated.

It's a personal choice...but why do you use 94 in your old flattie?

The polite thing to do is provide a link. ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/384725715307?hash=item599370896b:g:tycAAOSw8hZiBF9x https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Pipe-Nipple-Extractor-Set-6-Piece-410-391-0111/309997715

"About the same length" isn't good enough. We are talking about 0.006" clearance between shoes and drums when properly adjusted. Is your "eye-crometer" good down to a few thousandths?

Google really is your friend. Regardless of what size cables you have it looks like they are doing a pretty good job. When you want to search the forum Google does a much better job than the forum search engine: http://site:p15-d24.com battery cables Wire gauge chart: https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm 0 conductor is 0.325". Where I purchased my 1/0 cables with outside diameter of 0.530": https://www.batterycablesusa.com/0-gauge-awg-ul-battery-cable-with-ends

Very nicely done!

12” vernier calipers are available, I just looked at some on Amazon.

That looks a lot like the brake tool I designed..... ? Here is a thread about how to use the tool: https://p15-d24.com/topic/50182-brake-adjustment-tool-updated/

Is it possible to buy a new set of shoes with the proper lining? Backyard shoe sanding will likely result in an inconsistent surface with only portions of the shoe contacting the drums.....really doubt this will end up with satisfactory brake performance. We are talking about clearances less than 0.006".

Why would I expect that rig to be any more reliable than the archaic generator/regulator in our cars?? ? There's a good reason why my P15 has an alternator.

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I have an ancient manual charger from the 70's but this is what I use now: 1.5a, automatic voltage sensing (6v or 12v), reverse hookup protection, trickle mode. The thing works great, hook it up, return next morning and disconnect it.

Exactly. We have a great deal of discussion in the aviation community about care and feeding of AGM batteries. A fully charged AGM battery as a general rule retains 90% of the charge for six months. The special AGM chargers are not different in the way they charge a discharged AGM but in the way they maintain the charge in "trickle" mode. Conventional trickle charges can cause sulfation in an AGM battery and greatly shorten its life. The best way to maintain an AGM is to fully charge it.....then leave it alone. If the battery will be idle for several months, top up the charge every four months or so and don't kill it with a trickle charger. If the car is being driven regularly then there is no need for a charger of any type.

Looks like the new one doesn't have the recess for the boot to fit into.

If you have a vented cap you can plug the vent hose (or the fitting on the tank), the tank will vent through the cap.

Your solution is far more complicated than necessary. As stated above, the tanks originally weren't vented, just the caps. If you can't find a vented cap, plug the existing tank vent and drill a 1/8" hole in the filler tube just under the edge of the cap. This will vent the tank and keep fumes outside the car. (Please excuse the upside-down photo...)

You might just do a simple adjustment per the tech article in our archives. Once the car is rolling a more complete adjustment can be done. Hardly any of us have the fancy tools and we manage ok. ?

Looks like the belt is too narrow.

I like the way the modded bumper looks....but now it won't take as much of a bump to bloody that beautiful nose....................

I like James's idea for the upgrade. However, if the switch on my P15 ever gives problems, or if I get bored and need a little project, I will remove it and replace it with a mechanical switch at the brake pedal (like modern cars). That will prevent a switch failure from potentially becoming a fluid leak that could lead to brake failure. It is also adjustable so you can determine how much pedal travel is desired to activate the lights. Mechanical switches are available at parts store in a variety of configurations.

The parking effort was a major factor why I went with bias instead of radials. I remember when my Dad was given a set of radials for his '56 Savoy, he hated them and went back to bias ply. But I would enjoy the improved driving experience of the radials now, especially if I ever got caught in rain!

Apology not necessary. It's true larger cables have less resistance, but practicality and diminishing returns are also under consideration when deciding if a set of cables is large enough for reliable starting. Mopar engineers and seventy+ years of field history have demonstrated that 1/0 cable is very adequate at a reasonable cost and availability provided the battery, grounds and starter are in good condition. 3/0 cable is HUGE, nearly 3/4" in diameter and probably perfect for starting tractors and diesel trucks in cold weather. ?

1/0 is what I and many in the group have installed and they work great in my car.

Maybe put the bushing in the loop first, then grease up the taper and insert it into the bushing? I suspect that is the correct order of assembly to prevent splitting the bushing.