Sam Buchanan

I like the way the modded bumper looks....but now it won't take as much of a bump to bloody that beautiful nose....................

I like James's idea for the upgrade. However, if the switch on my P15 ever gives problems, or if I get bored and need a little project, I will remove it and replace it with a mechanical switch at the brake pedal (like modern cars). That will prevent a switch failure from potentially becoming a fluid leak that could lead to brake failure. It is also adjustable so you can determine how much pedal travel is desired to activate the lights. Mechanical switches are available at parts store in a variety of configurations.

The parking effort was a major factor why I went with bias instead of radials. I remember when my Dad was given a set of radials for his '56 Savoy, he hated them and went back to bias ply. But I would enjoy the improved driving experience of the radials now, especially if I ever got caught in rain!

Apology not necessary. It's true larger cables have less resistance, but practicality and diminishing returns are also under consideration when deciding if a set of cables is large enough for reliable starting. Mopar engineers and seventy+ years of field history have demonstrated that 1/0 cable is very adequate at a reasonable cost and availability provided the battery, grounds and starter are in good condition. 3/0 cable is HUGE, nearly 3/4" in diameter and probably perfect for starting tractors and diesel trucks in cold weather. ?

1/0 is what I and many in the group have installed and they work great in my car.

Maybe put the bushing in the loop first, then grease up the taper and insert it into the bushing? I suspect that is the correct order of assembly to prevent splitting the bushing.

You can always pick one up at Lowes. ? ?

Your list is a set of "wants", not "needs". If you are wanting to drive your car with minimal expense your upgrades are not necessary since the old-school 6v system with points, and the mechanical fan will get you down the road very reliably when properly maintained. But an alternator is the key to having a 6v architecture with the advantages of a modern charging system. The battery stays fully charged at all rpm, the lights stay bright in city traffic, the troublesome regulator is history, and the alternator requires no maintenance. No brainer. My 6v alternator is from this vendor: https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 Upgrade the battery and starter cables to complete the refresh of the 6v system. https://www.batterycablesusa.com/1-0-gauge-battery-cables-0-awg

After you get tired of messing around with the generator, regulator, etc, replace the whole conglomeration with a one-wire alternator and drive happily ever after with a fully charged battery. ?

Don't waste your time suing, the man did exactly what you asked him to do (according to what you are telling us). Besides....you just blew your case with the above quote. This is an unfortunate situation, I feel for you. However.....this illustrates why we must be an informed customer and understand all the implications when asking for services. Just trusting someone may not be sufficient. I hope you end up with a good engine in some way.

If you are having issues with crimped connections it is most likely because you are using an inferior crimper. What I see in your photo leads me to believe you are using one of these abominations: The quality of the crimp is extremely poor and the amount of crimp is dependent on the operator's grip strength. All wire crimps should be done with a proper ratcheting crimper: The crimper will not release the terminal until full crimp has been achieved and the crimp occurs in two locations on the terminal. I've wired aircraft, boats, and cars with this type crimper and never had a connection fail. You can see the dual crimp securing both the conductor and insulation in this photo taken when I installed the turn signal switch:

Coker has a radial tire in your size that looks like a bias-ply tire. I put Coker bias-ply wide-whites on my P15 because the radial tires had white walls that weren't quite as wide but if doing it over I would go with the radials for a softer ride. https://www.cokertire.com/tires/american-classic-blackwall-bias-profile-radials.html

Welcome! Ask.

That methodology works a lot of times on our old cars.......

The "fuzzy" side of velcro also makes excellent weather sealing and the self-adhesive makes it easy to apply. I used it for making new window tracks.

I found running board rubber mat on eBay for the "hidden" running boards on my P15. The front rubber is the new stuff and the rear is original style. Here is one eBay vendor: https://www.ebay.com/itm/202111846000?hash=item2f0ece0670:g:1AAAAOxy4M5R~dez

I drive the P15 fairly regularly. I have access to non-contaminated gas but use the nasty stuff since the old girl seems to be happy with it. But I never top the tank because I want to add fresh fuel on a frequent interval. So only four of five gallons are added at a time, just enough to cover my next 2-3 excursions. That way a sufficient percentage of the fuel is fresh enough to rejuvenate what was already in the tank. The tank is never more than 2/3 full. If a car is left idle for months at a time it might be better to top the tank to reduce chances of condensation in our open fuel tanks. But non-contaminated fuel pretty much makes that a non-issue since it doesn't absorb water. No lead additive is necessary. Lead causes the plugs in my planes to foul quicker, I sure don't want that stuff in my cars.

Two thoughts which you may have already checked. Make sure the choke is completely open and the high idle cam is disengaged once the engine is "off-choke". An intake leak could lead to higher idle and misfiring. Good luck!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/182900779437?fits=Year%3A1933|Make%3APlymouth&hash=item2a95bc69ad:g:m3MAAOxy~dNRA-Uc

A vendor for rebuilds I've archived from previous threads that had good reviews:

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1948p15/DocumentWeb/default.php Password is “password”.

I've always like Castrol GTX, they now have a "Classic" version with more zinc content. The extra zinc may not be needed in our old Mopars but I also use it in the TR6 that has a new cam and lifters. Castrol GTX Classic 20W-50 is available at Walmart and Amazon: P.S. Not recommended for cars with catalytic converters.

The '38 is gonna have a spring in it's giddy-up with that engine. ? Well done.

I'll warm up the popcorn popper...... ?

Y’all need to read more carefully……..Marc asked about building new fuel lines. 5/16” is just fine for fuel lines.