Leaderboard

Your original wiring and components only need to carry half the current on 12v as they would on 6v, you are good to go!

Your '49 is a bit newer than I am used to, but they look bog standard in your photo. Here is what mine look like with the puller attached: My write up on replacing the rear main seal on a 1933 model also covers removing the rear drums, so it might be helpful.

I believe it to be a circuit breaker.

If you can't weld, you better know how to grind!

Shine a bright light into each of the openings for manifolds. If I remember right, you will be able to see the valve stems entering the valve guides. You can also feel it with your finger. Put the extension tube on your blaster and soak the valve stem and the top of the valve guide. Break down and take the head off. You must know what’s going on inside of there. You can lightly apply taps to the top-center of valves, etc. Ignorance is not bliss…

That head needs to come off to inspect them combustion chambers before investing more resources into that engine...valves may be stuck, pistons might be stuck, or there could be a rat's nest in one of them bores 👀

Get the engine turning over. No point in worrying about the cooling system yet. If you can't get it to turn the cooling system stuff would just be a waste of time and effort

You will need to speciy what style of dipstick as I've seen long ones that fit into a 3-4" tube and others that fit straight into the hole on the engine block which is a shorter dipstick.....which was your cars?......andyd

Sent you a PM

The breaker resets on its own.

12v thru a 6v switch should not be an issue, the other way around though could be. When I rewired my car I used 65ish Mustang switches as they fit the motif. I'd post a link by I'll be darned if I can find the order. But I got them from CJ Pony parts.

additional information - engine block coolant flush anecdotes

I did mine by pulling the two lower core plugs and then using a pressure washer behind the water pump. Lot of gunk came out. My alley looked like someone spilt a chili pot

Most certainly. You can do a flush of the block without the car running or even the rest of the parts present. There are plenty of videos and recommendations about how to do that on the Tube, etc. I would be cautious about using the detergents, though. If you have not already done so, take out your valve coolant distribution tube and the block drain valve, at the bottom, to see how much sediment there actually is. If you can get rid of it with just a regular garden hose - just go for it 😀

Just as a datapoint, we sometimes need to "pickle" an engine in the aviation community for several years while an aircraft is being completed. All the openings in the engine are sealed and it is totally filled with oil. The type of oil isn't important, we usually just use the least expensive motor oil available. This eliminates internal components from having contact with air which removes the possibility of corrosion. The crankshaft is not rotated! These engines can cost $50-70K so this method is used since it has been found to be effective. If I needed to store one of our MoPar engines for several years I would consider the same method.

I've heard the term 'fogging oil' used in reference to oil designed for long-term engine storage. Might be worth looking into.

You could position the pieces together with a few sheet metal screws and take it to someone that would weld it, got to be easier than bending the brackets. I’m not much of a welder either but my grinding skills are improving. Good luck!

Bob, nice to hear from you, nice work on that master. my master was leaking from the fill cap, but i found a gasket for a carb. at the parts store that works, i will now search for the proper one. thanks for all who answered dennis.

I looked in my wagner brake catalog and looked up the master cylinder info for your car. You use the filler cap # FC4073 and the gasket is FC5922. refer to the picture 13c which is the filler cap and the gasket which is listed below it as FC522 Then go to picture 14 filler cap gasket FC5922 is listed as a fibre gasket 1 17/64 - 1 1/2 If you go to a Napa store with this information they might have it in stock or can order you one. This is again where having cross reference and old car manufacture catalogs comes in handy. On the last page go to the bottom of the sheet and look at FE17632 that is your master cylinder for your car Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Another one for ya...