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My baby got new shoes for the picinic.

I am sorry that I will be unable to make it to the party. Is there a volunteer that would drink a beer, or two, for me?

this is Friday, so....on your mark, get set.......drive.....last one there has to wash the pots and pans and clean the grille....

And make sure to NOTE how many shims there are and ideally their orientation and exactly how & where they go on...........from the ones I've played with the outer edge of these shims can get a bit of crud attached and is easy if not careful to get it mixed between the shims on reassembly, ideally you should be able to clean up the backing plate area pretty well without removing the backing plate.........is function is the hold the shims, seals & bearings in place & give the brake wheel cylinder something to sit on & the brake bits somewhere to locate against.........andyd.

HUGE THANKS TO KEN!!! I installed the relay as suggested and also added the diode into the start circuit as I originally planned. It fired right up and runs good. Coil stays cool and the resistor is also cool.

Wait for us! 110 north of sac just kiddin.... See you tomorrow save us a spot......

Travelers are rolling in! Mark for Minnesota.... Jereimah from Minnesota.... Sarah from Minnesota..... So it's safe to say "Minnesota is in the hooooouse!!!" Road warriors from the north and south are fighting their way to the epicenter of the Valley of the West Coast....not much longer, it will be a grand feast of burgers and dogs..... Oh, and don't forget the trucks and cars.....they'll be there too...lol. Tim aka 48Dodger

Dolly is loaded on her trailer. It is an old trailerr and tires not so good, but it was all I could get. Wish us luck. It will take us about 5 hours. I will round trip it on Sat.

even with really low compression, with ether you should get something. So I'd be checking for spark... primary circuit, 12 to coil, points etc. Points making and breaking circuit properly. rotor, cap, wires and plugs. If all that is good it should at least pop a few times. As stated Marvel Mystery Oil will help free the rings. But, IMO a shot of ATF will work almost as well, especially with 50% acetone added.

Don't buy Chinese...be safe.

Something like this

the green machine is more than not a 53 Dodge based on the thin trim a the rear as the font is not readily visible. the other is a 51 Plymouth

I also agree to go to the GM HEI module. You will get a hotter spark, better dwell control and best of all, you can get rid of that troublesome ballast resistor. If not, like most MOPAR people, keep a spare resistor in you glove box. Adam

This year I had a friendly blonde rope me into moving her into an upstairs apartment...

I just did a US Ebay search in the car Parts & Accessories under "1950 Plymouth Steering Box" and there was a rebuild kit for the 1942 to 1955 Plymouth steering Box consisting of the pitman shaft seal, both pitman shaft bushes and the worm upper & lower bearings and race for $100.00, plus another listing for the steering box isolator rubbers that go between the box and chassis and outside plate and chassis for $69.00..........both seemed like good value, especially the box rebuild kit........the seal in the kit looks like a neoprene seal, whereas the original seal is a leather one........if you take the id/od specs of the pitman shaft seal any competent bearing house should be able to have a neoprene seal anyway by itself.........BTW....I don't understand why you want a steering shaft.........the steering box will leak only from the pitman shaft seal or the shims/gasket area on the bottom of the box.........tho' I have heard of leaks coming from the tube that the horn wire goes into if the tube where it is crimped onto the bottom plate develops a leak or crack but that would be rare or I suppose if the steering box is overfilled with oil which is the wrong lubricant anyway but if overfilled the oil may travel up past the top of the tube and into it and run out............I'd get the rebuild kit if it was me...........andyd

You have already passed the biggest challenge and that is getting the drums off. The backing plate has 5 bolts which you have already removed. A good swat with a hammer should get the plate off BUT you should clean any sand and dirt from around behind so it does not fall into the bearing when the plate comes loose. There will be several shims between the axle housing and the backing plate. These are for the bearing adjustment which should allow about .005 end play on the axle. There are two seals, outer and inner. If there are no leaks at present, then the inners are good. The outers are easy to change but if they are not leaking then they should be OK. It is likely someone put gasket sealer on the shims..... there is no gasket..... and that is what is holding the backing plates on.

Got the ignition issue solved thanks to some help on the board. I added a relay as suggested and also installed a diode in the run circuit and now she starts and runs. Installed the new starter I had shipped overnight and verified it wasnt hanging up. Also adjusted the clutch and was able to drive her around the yard. Now I need to head over to the exhaust shop and see if I can get it welded up or if I will have to go back to manifolds. Its pretty tight! Lots of little things still to do, but there is a light at the end of the tunnel.

I’ve found trying to remove a bolt or nut it helps to loosen till it stops then tighten it back up. Blow the threads off. Maybe a wire brush then blow the threads off. Loosen again trying to go a little more. Then tighten. Back and forth. Turning it straight off can well snap the bolt. Even if it budged a little.

Looks like my truck won't be there, but my camera will. Looking forward to seeing everyone.

Anything that doesn't need to be done. I would definitely consider a dual-outlet master cylinder that mounts below the floor,and all new brake parts and lines for safety reasons,but unless you are planning on racing the car or pulling a trailer over mountains at highway speed,if your car is in good mechanical condition it will handle any normal driving with ease. When your uncle and your gramps were talking about modifying the car it was probably 20 + years ago,the car was worth 20 bucks,and the woods were full of them. Original cars that run and drive are worth considerably more money than that and are as desirable to most people as the modern street rods these days. Doctors have a slogan that states "Do no harm". MY slogan is "If it ain't broke,don't fix it."

If you must pump the pedal to get it to the top you have air in the system. Time to bleed the brakes.

Ggdad: we are fueling up our trucks! I have GPS dialed in, I'm ready to roll! "On the Road Again, Can't Wait Toget On the Road Again" !!! Update: I'm loaded up and ready to roll. Will drive to San Juan Baptista to pick up my dune buggy frame, then turn north to Tims. Each drive is about 2 1/2 hours. I've got some must see stops along the way so should be fun.

Thanks RobertKB for your comments. Yes, I use the truck as a daily work truck. The kids are my grandchildren and love to ride in it. His team won the championship basketball game and the prize was a picture in the old truck.

Oak railroad ties for a retaining wall. 40 mile round trip

Here are a few shots of my trucks from the past at PLAY.

Headed to the burnpile.

Took my PT81 to the gravel plant today to pick some shingle to correct the garden lane paving. I always thought my truck is not just small, but between the gravel hills and the loaders it looked like a toy. A CAT loader traced me close behind, so I rapidly rushed to the paying agency. He stopped behind me and it turned out that the guy just was noisy, he never has seen a truck like this. The paying agent also came excited out, looked at my truck, put his thumbs up and wished me a good ride. I had not to pay one buck …

I just completed the compression test on a 218 engine I purchased sight unseen. The seller was replacing it with a V8 front clip and just wanted it out of his shop! Some sellers are honest. The compression numbers ALL EXCEED 125#'s. Amazing. It sure beats a $2500.00 plus overhaul. Seller did not follow through, so it is still for sale, $600, a very good buy!

this listing should be of interest to you...... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shock-Mount-Stud-Bolt-on-Style-Zinc-Coated-Mounting-Each/263522274484?hash=item3d5b26ccb4:g:RA4AAOSwYcZald~Q&vxp=mtr

Salt rock, yes but used ACE Prep and Prime first. After a safety check on a lift and a few adjustments, my truck passed the pre BBQ road test. The drive is a 35 mile drive from 300' above sea level to 6500' which is a good pull. Temp leveled out at 190 degrees, oil pressure constant at 45 psi. I could have driven the distance in high but shifted down to 2nd at the end for higher rpms which rested the engine. The 2nd and over on an overdrive would have been perfect. I have the OD and will eventually install it.