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Sad ending to first outing...


SwannySwanson
Go to solution Solved by Ivan_B,

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Just rebuilt the brakes and master cylinder, that's a parking brake to engage and got it running pretty well. I took Sadie out to stretch your legs a little bit and as I was bringing her back in she coughed and died. During the drive she seemed to act like she was starved for fuel at higher rpms.  Now she acts like she's not getting any fuel at any point. Unless I pour some fuel in the carb, she starts right up and will run okay for a few seconds then rough then dies.  The carburetor was rebuilt about a year ago. But but I guess it could be something with it, or maybe fuel pump?

Edited by SwannySwanson
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  • SwannySwanson changed the title to Sad ending to first outing...
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Sorry to hear that. Did you test it around the block, several times, before going on a trip? :)

Take the fuel line off the carb and ask someone to crank the car (disconnect the coil so that it does not start on you. Do you get fuel coming out of the line?

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Same thing happened to me last year. Seemed starves for fuel a few times but I thought it was low gas in the tank. One outing it died and it was the pin in the fuel pump that worked its way out. 10 minute fix with some jb weld to make sure it never wiggles its way out again.

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I notice Jacquiline acting fuel starved in hot weather.  That corn syrup gas boils at a lower temperature that 1946 gas.  The engine works good till it gets warnn then begins to act fuel starved.  I have actually seen fuel bubbling in the fuel filter.  When the gas boils it gets pushed back through the fuel system so when you shut off and goto re-start,  you have to crank for a good 15 seconds before fuel hits the fuel bowl.

 

Make sure your heat shield is in place,  Check your fuel filter to make sure it isnt flooded, and yes,  check the pin in the fuel pump.

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2 hours ago, Ivan_B said:

That's a good point. Too bad these tanks do not have the old fashioned dipstick to verify fuel level.

Depends on which car you have. :)

 

My '33 has about a 2" filler neck and it is really easy to insert a probe of some sort into the tank to measure fuel level. One of the "tools" hanging on the pegboard above my workbench is a paint mixing stick that I have marked with the depth for each gallon of fuel.

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That's a long neck :) I just used to have an older-style screw-in dipstick gas tank, once, and it was really cool that you could take it out (from under the trunk carpet) and see how many gallons of fuel you've had left in there, this was in addition to the stock dash indicator. Now, I got my new Plymouth and drove it just a few miles. The tank shows full, but I am somewhat concerned. If I don't see any needle movement any time soon, I'll probably have to experiment with paint mixing sticks.

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Yup. I ran out of fuel despite my fuel gauge showing ¼ tank. Twice. 2 different cars. Indeed the pin fell out of my the arm on my mechanical fuel pump too. I swapped in an electric pump in minutes roadside, and drove home. (One of my finest moments!)

 

Gotta love the old flatheads. We’re all experiencing the same things around the world. Lol. 

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Today was the first chance that I have to get out and tinker around. As suggested I pulled the fuel line off and verified the fuel pump is working. I started it up and ran it around the block and it then started to hesitate and cut out again. Plenty of fuel, but I haven't had a chance to check the screen from the tank as suggested and I also haven't had a chance to check out the carb for debris. I will say that from the very beginning when I have pulled the throttle back on the carb there certainly is not a strong stream that goes into the throat.  The only other thing that pops into my mind is the fuel filter inlet and outlet are smaller then the one that I replaced, maybe it's causing an issue.  Thanks for the great suggestions!

 

I think that's one of the best things with this form, reading through other people's questions and concerns and how they are answered by folks who have a collective knowledge of generations!

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On 7/16/2023 at 8:00 AM, SwannySwanson said:

The only other thing that pops into my mind is the fuel filter inlet and outlet are smaller then the one that I replaced, maybe it's causing an issue.

Should not matter, you are probably not using so much fuel at once to empty the bowl, anyway. So, when the car dies, can you quickly pull the carb top to verify that there is gas in the carb?

Once it dies, are you able to restart it? By itself or with starting fluid?

If you have gas & air, move on to the ignition :)

Also, is it cranking good when hot?

Edited by Ivan_B
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So I took my carburetor off, and did a bit of clean up on it.  The jets were a bit gunked up so I picked up a rebuilt kit.  Thorough cleaning, methodical reassembly, verified the float level.  Put it on and for the first time it fired right up!!  I didn't have to prime it, no starting fluid, just vroom.

 

I've adjusted the idle and the main jet so that it runs out pretty well.  But I cannot get higher end rpms out of it.  I'm pretty sure it's the adjustment screw on the front of the carb, but for all that is good I can't figure out if I need to set it in or out to raise the rpms.  I've checked the docs on this site but I haven't found anything specific on how to adjust that item.

 

Thanks for the help in advance.

 

 

 

 

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6 hours ago, SwannySwanson said:

Put it on and for the first time it fired right up!!  I didn't have to prime it, no starting fluid, just vroom.

And that's exactly how it is supposed to be, good job. You do not even need to use choke when the weather is warm :)

For the adjustment screw, are you referring to the idle mixer screw or the throttle? Throttle - screw goes in, raises the throttle, idle gets higher. Mixture - can go either way, depending upon the conditions. If the screws are not responding, there could be something wrong with the carb assembly. I once had a carb where the DIY fix of the accelerator pump, by previous owner, prevented the throttle from closing all the way, so the idle screw was not responsive at all because the fuel was already going through the main jet circuit on idle.

 

So, the engine does not have higher RPMs? Both, while in motion and on idle, or only in motion (under load)? Were higher RPMs fine before you fixed the carb? Does your throttle open all the way, when you push the gas pedal to the floor? Happened to me once ?

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1 hour ago, Ivan_B said:

And that's exactly how it is supposed to be, good job. You do not even need to use choke when the weather is warm :)

For the adjustment screw, are you referring to the idle mixer screw or the throttle? Throttle - screw goes in, raises the throttle, idle gets higher. Mixture - can go either way, depending upon the conditions. If the screws are not responding, there could be something wrong with the carb assembly. I once had a carb where the DIY fix of the accelerator pump, by previous owner, prevented the throttle from closing all the way, so the idle screw was not responsive at all because the fuel was already going through the main jet circuit on idle.

 

So, the engine does not have higher RPMs? Both, while in motion and on idle, or only in motion (under load)? Were higher RPMs fine before you fixed the carb? Does your throttle open all the way, when you push the gas pedal to the floor? Happened to me once ?

Well I have had this issue before pulling off the carburetor, bogging down pretty severely at around 35 mph in third gear. Lots of hesitation. And also when it is not under load, when I rev the engine, it gets to a certain point it bogs down.  I haven't looked at the throttle opening completely up, I have assumed it as, but I haven't specifically checked it.

 

And I come back to the issue with this screw (see picture)  It adjusts the dash pot pump, and I've been told that this regulates the high end of the carburetor. Do I need to back that screw out adjustment or in? I feel like it and honestly I don't see a lot of difference. Thanks for the help!

20230722_173304.jpg

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Sorry, I am not familiar with this specific carb, and I do not have a 48 manual handy, so let's wait for someone more knowledgeable to chime in. I suspect that this screw might be for the seasonal mixture adjustment (cold versus hot weather) so it might not be readily noticeable to you, while testing.

Also, if you have not already done so, check out this thread:

This was just resolved, similar symptoms (hesitated in high gear) and it turned-out to be ignition-related.

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13 hours ago, Ivan_B said:

Sorry, I am not familiar with this specific carb, and I do not have a 48 manual handy, so let's wait for someone more knowledgeable to chime in. I suspect that this screw might be for the seasonal mixture adjustment (cold versus hot weather) so it might not be readily noticeable to you, while testing.

Also, if you have not already done so, check out this thread:

This was just resolved, similar symptoms (hesitated in high gear) and it turned-out to be ignition-related.

Thanks! Appreciate your input and link.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/24/2023 at 11:16 AM, Merle Coggins said:

Have you done work on the ignition system recently? Bogging down at a certain RPM regardless of load sounds like an issue a few of us have experienced with points bounce from not having the spring attached properly. 

So this was the first time in awhile that I've had to work on the coupe.  I took the distributor cleaned it up and put in a new plate.  Replaced the coil to distributor wire.  Boom! That fixed the sluggish, it also shuts off immediately when key is turned off. Thanks, I don't think that fix would have crossed my mind.

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  • 3 weeks later...

A bit of an off-topic: I just ran out of fuel myself, yesterday... Exactly the way we discussed in this thread... ?

Finally fixed the leaking carb and was driving around the neighborhood for testing. Noticed hesitation while accelerating in 2nd, a couple of times. Then the car died in driveway, while I was parking it, and would not restart. I've done the usual troubleshooting, and figured it was percolated. Waited till this morning - still no go. Then, remembered this thread, knocked on the tank: empty. What a lame problem to have ?

I need to check my fuel gauge, it is still showing full tank.

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