I checked my coil. Is it good?

[MarcDeSoto]

My engine has become a non starter.  It started great, then it quit after one minute and won't restart.  I'm trying to Sherlock Holmes the answer.  First, I'm checking on the ignition system.  I do have spark at the plugs, but I'm looking at the ignition system closer.  I pulled the distributor and it looked like the points were at .030 instead of .020, so I adjusted that.  I examined the points and did not see any signs of burning.  I tested the coil with a multitester and got these results:  Primary circuit: 50 ohms.  Secondary circuit, both positive and negative, about 7K ohms.  Is that a good result for this 48 DeSoto six volt coil?  

[D35 Torpedo]

Coils rarely "go bad" they more often leak or explode. Especially when ran on a higher voltage. Pull the distributor cap, make sure the points are closed, turn the ignition on, and using a flat head screw driver, flick the points open and closed. You should see sparks. Then put the cap back on and crank it, checking for spark at the plug.

[MarcDeSoto]

I've already checked for spark at the plugs.  I have spark at the plugs.  I also checked my spark plugs and they look dry and clean.  I checked my carburetor by pulling the accelerator rod and I have a squirt of gas in the carb.  The condenser is new, but I will check or replace it next.  

[maok]

The primary coil resistance (ie between the + and - terminals) should only be 1.5ohm or 3 ohm max

Edited April 1, 2023 by maok

[JerseyHarold]

The ignition coil may be heating up and causing the engine to stall.  Put some ice cubes in a zip-lock bag and use it to cool the coil when the engine stalls.  If the engine starts, I'd try a replacement coil.  

[DJK]

Have you checked the points setting with a dwell meter?

[OUTFXD]

Check the Holy Trinity,  Fire, Water, and air.   Your getting spark at the plugs and that is good!  Have you checked for fuel flow and made sure your air filter isnt plugged?

 

Make sure your Points havent closed up changing the timing. (also check the timing)

 

Check if your fuel filter is plugged.

[Sam Buchanan]

10 hours ago, MarcDeSoto said:

My engine has become a non starter.  It started great, then it quit after one minute and won't restart.

 

Sounds like it ran out of gas.

[MarcDeSoto]

I think an easy check to make is to pour a little gas down the carburetor and see if it starts.  If it does, then maybe the ignition system is OK.  Then it might be a fuel delivery problem.  I will check my fuel pump again with vacuum gauge.  I've also ordered new coil, points, and condenser.  I also want to buy a multimeter that has alligator clips instead of just points, if they make such a thing.  

[Los_Control]

This is the only time I use starting fluid.

Spray a short shot .... if it starts or tries to start .... fuel issue.

If no change, then electrical.

 

You can pour gas in the carb .... maybe get it flooded & no change so you end up getting a false diagnoses.

 

I'm only suggesting, if you give it a whiff of either .... If spark & timing is correct, it will start. .... there is no maybe about it.

If it makes no difference you look for a spark or timing issue.

 

It is a very simple, quick & dirty diagnostic tool. You do not want to try & keep the engine running on the starting fluid .... by starting it and spraying more while running.

It will tell you very quickly which direction to start searching.

[Sam Buchanan]

2 hours ago, MarcDeSoto said:

 I also want to buy a multimeter that has alligator clips instead of just points, if they make such a thing.  

 

Most of us just make our own alligator clip test leads........ 

 

But if you really want to buy something:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Multimeter-Alligator-Leads，15A-Suitable-Digital/dp/B0B66QPTYB?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=AK1QMP8OV4LU7

 

Edited April 1, 2023 by Sam Buchanan

[MarcDeSoto]

I tested my theory by pouring some gas in the carburetor.  It started right up and I ran the engine for about half an hour.  I'm having some problems with the transmission that won't shift into gear, and the driveshaft that has a wobble.  You can see the problem about 2.5 minutes into the video.  

 

 

[Sam Buchanan]

You have a serious issue with the front universal joint, either mis-assembly or defective. That must be addressed, I wouldn't want to be running the car in gear in the garage with that wobble, something may fly apart!

[Los_Control]

I can toss out a couple opinions on the drive shaft .....

A: ... it kinda wants a load on it, sitting on jackstands ... no body, no weight ..... the pinion angle is not where it would normally be.

 

B: When is the last time you greased the u-joints & the yoke?

I get it, all looks nice and new .... Are those u-joints brand new 20 years ago with 20 year old grease in them?

 

My truck does something similar but not as bad as yours ... when I let out the clutch, I can see it divert off of a straight path .... Breaks my heart

I know I need to take the drive line out, including the yoke .... clean everything and add fresh grease .

As Sam says, the front U-joint looks stiff & not moving/rotating as it should.

 

My truck uses Cleveland U-joints $110 each on epay .... I will try to take mine apart and clean & grease them .... same with the yoke, make sure it slides smooth.

 

 

 

KK funny story time.  I had a old Toyota car that just ran great and we drove it often. Paid $300 for it at a auction .... pooched quarter panel & a blue door on a red car..

After driving it for years with giving it no maintenance. A u-joint actually froze up on it.

 

The symptoms were, you drive it and give it the gas .... would seem fine .... let off on the gas and the rear end would bounce all around rolling up to a stop light.

I actually swapped in a new rear end because I thought that was the issue.

 

Then I got smart, pulled the driveline back out ... rotated the u-joints by hand & found the frozen one.

Replaced it & drove the car another 5 years.

 

A stiff u-joint will cause the issue you are seeing. Could be other things but first thing to check.

A dried up or non working accelerator pump will cause your other issue with acceleration.

[MarcDeSoto]

The NOS u-joints were installed a few months ago with fresh grease.  I never thought of your other idea about the wheels being jacked up.  Also I need to put the bell housing brackets back on.  The other problem with the gear shifter is that I can shift the gears fine with the engine stopped.  But when the engine is running the shifter is still doesn't want to go into gear, and sometime gears clash if I try to force it!  I wonder if I have a problem with my clutch not releasing?  I think I can check that by starting the car in gear, and then pushing the clutch in to see in the driveshaft stops.  

[D35 Torpedo]

I hate to say it, but I think the trans output shaft is bent. You see the brake drum wobbling as well. It's not just a U-joint. That's a funny thing to be bent. Unless the car was picked up with a fork lift a few times to many. Good luck.

[kencombs]

The first thing I'd check is the install/bolt to the trans.   Looks to me as it the flange surfaces aren't seated squarely.   Should be easy to see by just looking squarely at ujoint and mating parts while turning the driveshaft by hand.  

[Veemoney]

As Sam identified the front U-joint 

13 hours ago, MarcDeSoto said:

The NOS u-joints were installed a few months ago with fresh grease.

A couple thoughts on this.

• Does the rear driveshaft wobble as it rotates as well?
• When you had the driveshaft out did you separate the 2 driveshaft sections to grease the spline? If so did you install them together with the alignment marks on the 2 components, so they are correctly indexed?
• Are the u-joint phased correctly?
• With no bed or load on the frame in the rear the driveshaft spline is likely out of travel or close to it. If it is out of travel it could be influencing the shaft. You can throw some plywood or boards on the frame and load some weight on to simulate the bed and give the splines some travel as Los mentioned.
• I agree as Ken mentioned that the front flange surfaces don't seem to be seat square and need to be checked.

[Sam Buchanan]

29 minutes ago, kencombs said:

The first thing I'd check is the install/bolt to the trans.   Looks to me as it the flange surfaces aren't seated squarely.   Should be easy to see by just looking squarely at u-joint and mating parts while turning the driveshaft by hand.  

 

That's my first impression as well. There is a little runout on the brake drum but the shaft is wobbling ~1/4" near the axis of rotation. That amount of runout would translate to at least an inch of runout on the brake drum if the shaft is bent. I don't know how much/if a healthy brake drum wobbles, never seen one rotating at engine speed.

 

Would also be a good idea to give the output shaft bearing a good look to assure it isn't shot and has axial play....but that would be a really bad bearing.....

Edited April 2, 2023 by Sam Buchanan

[MarcDeSoto]

I didn't take the drive shaft apart to lube it.  I will do that.  I will check the things you mention, Thanks!  I watched a drive shaft mechanic on Youtube say that the driveshaft needs to be at the correct angle to work right.  So I'm thinking of removing the right rear wheel and lowering the car so that the left rear wheel is on the floor.  Then seeing if that corrects the wobble.  

Edited April 2, 2023 by MarcDeSoto

[Dodgeb4ya]

That wobbly  U-joint is probably  assembled wrong...not seated etc.

[Los_Control]

15 hours ago, MarcDeSoto said:

The NOS u-joints were installed a few months ago with fresh grease.

There you go!

Installing fresh U-joints & grease a few months ago you know the condition of the drive line .....  IMHO, you have to know that is correct before looking elsewhere.

 

Seems something is not sitting flat as it should .... You have a wonderful opportunity for improvement here .... You get to take it apart & do it again 

 

Just to be fair, 2 or 3 years ago I put new u-joints, carrier bearing in my daily driver 2 piece drive shaft. I screwed up the front u-joint installing it.

It worked but did give some vibration & howled .... 6 months later I replaced it ... again.

 

Just now, MarcDeSoto said:

So I'm thinking of removing the right rear wheel and lowering the car so that the left rear wheel in on the floor.  Then seeing if that corrects the wobble.  

I do not think that is a good idea. ..... If the rear end is a limited slip like I think ours is, the wheel that spins is chosen by traction ....

If you add traction to the left wheel it will spin.

[MarcDeSoto]

Oh, I think you're right.  the wheel on the floor would turn, not the right hub.  Someone just told me the opposite!  

[Dave72dt]

It looks like the rear axle is supported by 2 jack stands.  Lowering the chassis so one of the tires hit the ground will not change the driveshaft angle.  You have to load the suspension ( compress the springs) to change the angle.  With properly installed and functioning ujoints, the driveshaft can run at the current angle at idle rpm without problems.   Sounds like the engine is running at a fast idle, 1000rpm or more.  It doesn't give the gears in the trans much time to slow down and gears to mesh.  I assume there is oil in the trans.

[Los_Control]

I still say IF! a u-joint was frozen, it would not rotate as it should.

 

Pinion angle is important .... I think your jack stands are under the axle ... basically as good as it gets with the weight you have.

Imagine if the jack stands were under the frame & the axle hanging down .... That would change the pinion angle a lot.

 

The pinion angle will affect it at driving speeds. .... not so much while sitting on jack stands with weight on the axle.

 

Your problem appears to be at the front u-joint.

That yoke needs to move freely

The u-joint needs to move freely.

The plate the u-joint bolts to, needs to sit flat & flush.

The output shaft from the transmission needs to be straight & true.

 

If you remove the drive line from the transmission, then run it again .... you can see if it still happens at the end of the transmission where u-joint connects.

Then remove the The connection there & check the run out on the tail shaft ..... Systematically 1 piece at a time you can find the issue here.