JohnTeee Posted November 16, 2022 Report Share Posted November 16, 2022 (edited) After a long hiatus from the P15-D24 Forum and my 1947 Plymouth P-15 Special Deluxe Convertible, enough is enough and I want to get it running again. History: Winter 2011-12 - rebuilt carb, spark plugs, replaced four intake valves with #V1086 and "valves ground" (to my additional shame, I did not record WHICH intake valves they were), Points, Condenser, Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, fuel tank cleand/lined, under dash/aftermarket water temp gauge installed (original gland broke off sensor cable), head resurfaced and new gasket, 140F Thermostat (don't ask why, I don't recall. Must have seemed like a good idea at the time), intake/exhaust resurfaced Winter 2014-15-It Had a 'clutch blowup' and it was out of service for a while. Got clutch back in and wanted to drive it. No exact recall of what I did. I know I mucked about with the distributor and carb float. Had a massive backfire that blew out the side of the muffler. Could not get it to run. I'm not great at troubleshooting engine and so, it has sat. In an effort to get it going again, I was going to take it to my local mechanic who came up 'Old School' and was going to take it on in his 'project bay' when he got done with a truck engine replacement. This excellent gentleman was diagnosed with, and shortly later, died from Pancreatic Cancer. I got in touch with a mechanic who said he could work on the old girl agreed to take it in. Got it in too him and he certainly identified problems; did not return it running. Work he did: Replaced battery Replaced spark plugs Found fuel tank was rusty and fouling the fuel. Lining was flaking off and tank was rusting. New fuel tank from Vans Auto installed. (Ironically, they had a better price with shipping on eBay, than their online site) Radiator leaking - sent off, along with spare, to local radiator shop to pick the best and fix any leaks They had removed the radiator to check timing against the balancer marks Ran compression test and found #5 with low compression. Ran 'leak down' and found air leakage into cylinder 6 and carb He knew I had been into the head and valves in the past. In an effort to save me some money, recommended I have it towed back home, pull the head and inspect the head gasket for leaks, or check valves for proper operation, which we agreed it sounded like it could be. Pictures below of what I'm working with. I'll post links, as each is larger than the total size allowed for upload. May have to come back and edit to find a link format that works. I've pulled the head and do not see anything readily apparent with the gasket Nothing readily apparent on my inspection of the block Close up of Cylinders 5 & 6 Here is a YouTube video link for a short, head off, crank, showing all valves working. Soooooooo, any thoughts about where I need to concentrate my attention? New head gasket obviously. Several years before all of this I had put a different head on, I think because it gave me a few more C.I. - it's the type with the bypass hole, which my block does not have. Guess it doesn't make any difference which head gasket goes on, as that hole isn't going anywhere? Check valve clearances? I really appreciate any ideas. I'm not sure how much I'll tackle the rear differntial pinion housing leaking and passenger door latching on down the road . . . <grin> Edited November 16, 2022 by JohnTeee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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