John-T-53 Posted March 18, 2022 Report Posted March 18, 2022 (edited) What started as a tire replacement has mushroomed into a project as usual. Trying to get this old gal ready for a 450 mile round trip up to the BBQ in a couple weeks. New sneaks due to old age on the tires (10+ years), and sidewall cracking. I went with Toyo open country. Made in Japan, and I really like Toyos since installing them on my New Yorker Brougham. treadwear = 700+, Traction = A, Temperature = B. The spare tire also getting replaced, had a slow leak due to rust inside the bead seat. Sandblasted the wheel followed by naval jelly treatment to remove 100% of the rust, one coat of POR-15, two coats of primer, two coats of satin black.... This is a "late model" Mopar wheel, non original. I forget where it came from. Edited March 18, 2022 by John-T-53 1 Quote
John-T-53 Posted March 18, 2022 Author Report Posted March 18, 2022 Brake and bearing inspection revealed that new grease and front wheel cylinder rebuild is in order. Last time was over 10 years ago. Ordered new seals at NAPA, $68 for a pair of front seals, $32 for pair of rear outer seals, $38 for inner seals! WTF. Also, $32 for (2) wheel cylinder repair kits! Replaced front outer bearing race too. I have a fresh tub of marine grease, I think I'll use that to pack the bearings this time. Never have pulled the rear axles, I'm getting some rust colored gear oil leaking out the ends. I need to get these out somehow this time, and might need to get new bearings pressed. I recall @Young Ed talked about using a piece of PVC pipe to pull the axles, we're talking years ago now. 2 Quote
Young Ed Posted March 18, 2022 Report Posted March 18, 2022 Yup you need a piece just big enough to go over the 5 studs on the axle housing. Then you put the drum back and use it as a puller. Quote
John-T-53 Posted March 18, 2022 Author Report Posted March 18, 2022 I guess the key is getting it just the right length so that I can utilize as much threads as possible. I also have an axle puller....but that might harm the bearings? Quote
Merle Coggins Posted March 19, 2022 Report Posted March 19, 2022 I’ve use some deep sockets over the studs, then set the drum against them and run the nut on to pull the axle. Similar concept to Ed’s. Quote
kencombs Posted March 19, 2022 Report Posted March 19, 2022 (edited) I have a adapter (at least I think I do as it hasn't been used in years) made from an old axle nut welded to another nut that fits my slide hammer. Screw one on the axle, the other end on the tool and yank. I know it isn't recommended to pound on bearings, but my theory in this case is that if you hold constant outward pressure, not allowing any slack between roller and race it prevents damage. At least it used work for me when I used it a lot. Edited March 19, 2022 by kencombs Quote
Merle Coggins Posted March 21, 2022 Report Posted March 21, 2022 Looks like your inner seals have been compromised for a while and the oil has broken down the bearing grease. Good thing you decided to do this maintenance. Quote
John-T-53 Posted March 21, 2022 Author Report Posted March 21, 2022 (edited) 6 hours ago, ggdad1951 said: pffft gloves..... Lol, Raven gloves are the best. 4 hours ago, Merle Coggins said: Looks like your inner seals have been compromised for a while and the oil has broken down the bearing grease. Good thing you decided to do this maintenance. I never replaced them when I originally did the brakes in '07. I didn't have the resources / ability to pull the axles back then. That probably was prior to joining the forum. The bearings are good, despite that.... I will be worry free for the upcoming 500 mile round trip to the BBQ..... Edited March 21, 2022 by John-T-53 1 Quote
John-T-53 Posted March 21, 2022 Author Report Posted March 21, 2022 (edited) The shafts are a little worn at the inner seal surfaces. Unfortunately, SKF does not make a speedi-sleeve in this size (1.445"). Would have to weld the shafts and re-grind, which I will not do since this rear end will be replaced with an 8-3/4" in the future. The new seals seem to fit snug on the shafts, though. Will pack the bearings with thick marine grease..... You're looking at about $130 worth of overpriced seals for all four wheels here.... Edited March 21, 2022 by John-T-53 Quote
Lingle Posted March 21, 2022 Report Posted March 21, 2022 Ive seen NAPA charging outrageous prices lately unfortunately. WIX filters there are 50-200% more than I can get them from the web, but that only works if you have time to wait on a shipment coming in. I ran a AMC 258 6 cylinder with the front crankshaft surface wore worse than that and didn't leak so I suspect it would be ok. Quote
John-T-53 Posted March 27, 2022 Author Report Posted March 27, 2022 (edited) Well....might as well do the MC too while the system is open. I had a kit in stock anyways... A good opportunity to restore the hardware and flip the cover around so the plug is at the front.... Bench bleeding... Edited March 27, 2022 by John-T-53 1 2 Quote
RobertKB Posted March 27, 2022 Report Posted March 27, 2022 Nice job on the MC. Regarding the seals. These new seals are not as robust as the older ones and can be easily damaged installing them. Hope all works out well and it should be a fun trip to the BBQ. Wish I was closer. Quote
Brent B3B Posted March 28, 2022 Report Posted March 28, 2022 Nice job! I am so gonna park next to you ? Get ready to share your trade secrets with me Saturday ? Quote
DJ194950 Posted March 28, 2022 Report Posted March 28, 2022 23 hours ago, John-T-53 said: Well....might as well do the MC too while the system is open. I had a kit in stock anyways... A good opportunity to restore the hardware and flip the cover around so the plug is at the front.... Bench bleeding... That is too good looking to actually use! It may get dirty in use! Are you sure you do not have and another good one to drive with? Otherwise, take a good picture ( blown up in size) to have have framed and hang on the shop wall. Maybe the fireplace mantel! ? Very nice work! DJ 1 Quote
John-T-53 Posted April 9, 2022 Author Report Posted April 9, 2022 (edited) To bring some closure to this thread.... Packed the bearings with marine grease (because I had it on hand).... Had to get new wheel cylinders for the rears. Luckily NAPA had them within a day! Centric makes these now. Also had to make new lines between the cylinders. Very important to make sure that the line is clear of the rivets on the back side of the hub/drum assembly. The new spare. My tire guy got me this Hankook for $65. Edited April 9, 2022 by John-T-53 2 Quote
Brent B3B Posted April 13, 2022 Report Posted April 13, 2022 On 3/28/2022 at 2:46 PM, Brent B3B said: Nice job! I am so gonna park next to you ? On 4/9/2022 at 1:51 PM, John-T-53 said: To bring some closure to this thread.... lol, boom! ? 1 2 Quote
John-T-53 Posted June 5, 2022 Author Report Posted June 5, 2022 (edited) Update: After the trip to Clements, I discovered the truck slowly pulling to the right upon braking. Turned out that the rebuilt front wheel cylinders were leaking. Pulling the drums revealed that everything was completely soaked in brake fluid. I had honed the cylinders out too much. They were a couple thousandths over size. Despite the cups seeming to fit snug, I guess that made a difference. So..... New cylinders and shoes now. The brake fluid had wrinkled the paint on the backing plate so I stripped them down and repainted, this time with cast iron gray engine enamel. My back channel parts guy on 'Lawn Guyland' NY got me some Asbestos shoes from South America. This will be a lot better on the OEM drums ... Edited June 5, 2022 by John-T-53 Quote
John-T-53 Posted June 5, 2022 Author Report Posted June 5, 2022 (edited) In ordering new wheel cylinders, I found out that the cylinders in my truck were not the correct part. This truck came with the stepped bore 1-1/4" x 1-3/8" cylinders, paired with equal length shoe lining on each. In reality the correct part for a B4B is a straight bore 1-3/8", combined with shoes of unequal length. Does it matter? Probably not, the brakes worked fine in the past 20 years. So now, I have these old step bore cylinders up for grabs for FREE if anybody wants them. I would hate the throw them away, because they're hard to find. The rubber parts are like new. The cylinders need to be sleeved. Sleeving can be done by these guys: http://www.karpspb.com/ These step bore cylinders are correct for the following models: B1B, B2B, and B3B up to 2267098 (Detroit) and 85315925 (San Leandro) Mopar p/n : 1271432 (front right) 1271433 (front left) EIS p/n EW3595 / EW6363 (front left) EW3596 / EW6354 (front right) Edited June 5, 2022 by John-T-53 2 Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted June 5, 2022 Report Posted June 5, 2022 Good on the asbestos linings. Once worn in to drums...excellent safe predictable, no first stop pulling issues. Even after sitting for six months. Quote
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