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What kind of heater is this? I happen to have one in my replacement cab that is missing the fan and blade. Id like to get down to 1 heater assembly, the replacement cab had 2 of them, a Mopar 70 and the one above). I may or may not keep my heater that looks like yours but am trying to identify the heater first.

I believe you are talking about the part that keeps the door from opening too far? if so I cut the pin holding the A pillar side, last I researched you had to remove the pin/rivet to remove that part. I plan to just bolt mine back together when I re-assemble the cab.

Block of wood works well or if you have a big socket that fits almost the exact outside diameter that works well. I purchased a seal driver/bearing race installer tool kit on Amazon for <$20 and it works for many different sizes but the general block of wood or socket works as well.

Awesome build! Good score on the Excursion, what are your plans for box/bed, if you have thought that far ahead?

Got some work done this weekend, primarily disassembling the replacement cab so it can be put on the frame to start the mocking up. It was interesting, this cab appears to be off a truck with a 2 speed rear diff(see my post on speedo identification) but it also had 2 heaters in it. One was a Mopar Model 70 and the other I do not know. It does not have a motor in it, but has a heater core. Anyone know what this is/was? Im contemplating if the Model 70 will be sufficient for both cab heat and defrost(it only has 1 output for non-defrost operation). I found some model 65 heaters on ebay but man they are steep! Also, how rare were electric wipers? It appears the replacement cab had electric wipers, however I only got the cab so I couldnt determine if this was a factory installed option or someone at a later date did this. Any way to identify the wiper vintage? The switch was located in the same location as my vacuum wiper switch was on my other cab so I tend to believe this was a dealer or factory install, but could be wrong.

that would make sense that somehow the rear diff/vacuum may feed into the speedometer sender since the transmission output would stay the same speed, but the rear axle would change speeds and need to compensate for the change, thanks! I still need to figure out how to adapt, when the time come, the NV4500 speedometer output to the factory speedo, but I have some time to do that. May need to see how ggdad1951 does his when he gets closer on his project.

I purchased a replacement cab and sheetmetal last fall and finally got around to disassembling the cab so I can start mocking up the new powertrain(see my build thread for more info) and when I removed the speedometer, it is very different from my 1951 speedo originally in the truck. I know the cab is a 51-53 given the gauge cluster layout but the part on the back of the speedo is different. It appears to have a oil(maybe air) line feeding a linkage on the back of the speedo. The original speedo I have the cable screws directly into the back, whereas on this one, the cable screws into the back of whatever has the steel line coming out off it. I looked in the parts catalog and didnt find anything special here, so maybe it was aftermarket? Sorry for the grainy photos, iPhone lens was cloudy due to excess humidity this morning here in Iowa. Thoughts?

sorry for the lack of updates, been busy and with the COVID items, money has been somewhat tight. I was able to complete rebuilding the front axle(minus calipers) and have it fully installed in the frame. Since it will be a year or so before I finish, I will not buy the calipers until closer to finishing the project. Edit: just noticed that I do not have the steering link in the photos, it is attached, just not in these photos. I then moved on to putting the cab and hood on the frame to start seeing how to fit the new powerplant. As it sits on stands in the garage, it is about 10" lower than when finished, so it will for sure not fit in the garage, and how to finish the build is now a problem I will be looking to resolve. I think I will make some dolly's that bolt to the wheel hubs that have casters so I can move it around without putting the massive 37" tires on it. I am hoping to bring my replacement/spare cab back next weekend to start the true fitment of the engine, no sense modifying 2 cabs when I can just modify the cab I plan to use in the end. Hope everyone is doing well in these troubling times.

not necessarily the best overview but the Dodge Pilothouse Club has parts manuals on their website: http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/ph_parts/pilothouse.htm also has repair manual: http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/manual/manual.htm

Great holiday weekend, I hope everyone else also had a good time, despite the challenging times we are in. I made a ~280 mile trip one way to pick up another engine for the project, eastern NE is not the loveliest place but still nice drive. I maintained social distance requirements during the trip and it was worth getting an engine I was looking for. I spent Saturday and Sunday finishing up welding my frame extensions, so I can now say that the front suspension is ~90% complete. I will be adding shocks eventually, so its not completely done. Dana 60 will be partially re-assembled next, followed by putting the cab on the frame to start setting in the engine and seeing how much re-work the firewall needs, I am hoping for little rework, but in the back of my mind I suspect it'll be more than I expect. For only being a 4 cylinder, the Detroit 4-53 is ~40" long. Here are some photos of my trip to Nebraska and the mostly finished front suspension. It is hard to see but the engine came from Plainview, NE. A town of ~1400. Got a really good deal on the engine, plus steering box and some fuel tanks from a late 70's/early 80's Chevy C60/70 straight truck.

wow those shipping costs are steep, I wonder if there is a Fastenal nearby that would be more economical? I sent an engine/transmission from my 51 from Waterloo, IA to Kansas somewhere and it was <$200 for shipping, and we all know the weight of the powertrain. Only downside is there is no tracking nor insurance and it takes ~10 days to ship, but that is anywhere in the US.

I personally set jack stands under the axle with a little gap and support the frame so the leaf springs have only the weight of the axle on them, but either way should work. The leaf springs should be fairly stable because the bolt/pin that holds them together sits inside a recess in the axle, more or less fixing the location side-to-side and fore-aft.

Over the weekend I was able to re-make my frame extension, found out I needed to widen the frame a total of 6" and not the 6 1/2" I built the first time and the axle wouldnt fit. So 3" extensions for both sides were mocked up and half built so I could reinstall the Dana 60 to make sure it now fits...and it does! Will work on boxing the mounts and welding them to the frame. Plan to still bolt the leaf spring mounts on but the 3" extension will be welded to the frame for stiffness. Overall turned out very well.

Once again I was MIA but got some work done this weekend. 4wd Dana 60 is located, leaf springs re-bushed, painted and reassembled. Blasted cab mounts and first coast of POR-15 applied. Hopefully this week I'll finalize the frame extensions since the Dana 60 spring perches are 3 1/4" wider than stock axle. Am able to keep the stock suspension all around, which was the goal.

Welcome! Great forum and support here. Despite being MIA for a month, hopefully getting back to working on my project as well. Welcome aboard!