Lingle

Thanks! Unfortunately someone moved the axle 16" rearward and didn't drill a whole in the frame to drive it out. I'm going to build a puller and see if I can pull out using the grease zerk threads similar so what I think this tool does you show.

Got some work done this weekend, frame is in the warm garage! Anyone know how to remove the spring bolts that hold the springs to the mounts? The repair book isn't very good and I don't appear to have the tool referenced in the book. DD-431 is the reference tool in the book for a headless spring removal tool. In the photo I removed the grease zerk.

Super stoked my replacement body parts arrived today! Cab is in worse shape than I expected but still better than the cab I had. It barely fit on my 6x12 trailer! Now to find some axles that are not stupid expensive. Who knew a Dana 60 front axle would be almost $1000?

I found both this link and another one for the division channel between the window and the vent window but havent ordered anything yet since Im still in scoping and initial work. I believe that the division bar is the straight one and then this other one(with the link) is ~8ft and would be trimmed down to fit your needs. Eventually I will need all these parts since I had to cut the windows out from the weatherstripping as it was stuck in place.

Brad, is this what you are looking for from Roberts: https://www.robertsmotorparts.com/window-channel-without-chrome-dodge-truck-1928-1961-chrysler-dodge-desoto-plymouth-1928-1970-1 DCM Classics also appears to have alot of parts selection for this era of truck, do not know if anyone has used them but here is their channel I believe: https://dcmclassics.com/dust-and-air-seals/225-rw-107-door-window-channel.html

got the doors apart tonight, unfortunately didnt take any photos but am due to get my all new(to me) sheetmetal and cab sometime this week! weather here in NE Iowa hasnt been overly good this week, was -2F this morning here.

I really thought about a RR, as others have done with this engine, a gentleman named Grigg has done this before and I've read much of his posts across several forums. The issues I have with this is 1: need to have an air supply(and haven't decided if I want to go that route yet) and 2: changed direction and plan to do a 4wd conversion, and its not overly easy to adapt a RR to a transfer case and really do not want to have a divorced t-case.

Yes, almost all of the 2 strokes were coined "screamin jimmy". 53 series came out in the late 50's after the 71 series was released sometime back in the late 30's(per wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Detroit_Diesel).

Welcome! I've only been on this forum a few weeks and its awesome this group of guys.

sorry for lack of pictures, Ill get some tonight but I got the truck body completely off and was taking the doors apart and cannot for the life of me get the latch assemblies out of the doors. I unscrew all the required screws and the latch/mechanism slides up and down inside the door on a vertical "u" channel and it will not come out. The latch runs on the inside of the channel highlighted below. It does not appear that you can move the latch assembly inward enough to clear this channel. Anyone else have this issue?

Tony you have a good question, one I've been asked a lot from my friends once I started this. I rebuilt quite a few Detroit 2 strokes when I was in the Guards and really wanted something somewhat period correct. The 53 series came out in the 60's and I saw that someone put this engine in a Diamond T truck one time. I agree they are loud and not overly fuel savvy but I think the cool factor is there. I was toying with a 4BT or 6BT Cummins but really the allure of the 2 stroke kept me on that path. I will be honest, finding one is getting very difficult but I have not looked overly hard yet either. cost wise a 4 or 6BT is the same as the 4-53.

so you guys were right, I cleaned off the area on the top of the pad and BINGO, there was the engine SN. so from the following website I get that this engine is: http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/tengines.html T314 236ci or 251ci 25 inches Dodge Truck B-3-FL, B-4-FL, B-3-F, B-4-F, B-3-FA 1951-1953 I believe this is a 236.6ci engine. Thanks for the suggestion to look at the top of the block.

Got a better photo of the engine pad where the serial number should be. As seen below in the non-"warp speed Scotty" photo the pad is blank minus a single X. Was this a replacement engine? -Brandon

good one! Yeah darn iPhone is giving me fits, first photo sizes are too big for forum, now looks like I'm travelling through time and space!

here is a photo of the truck minus the engine