Lingle

Best I could find is from the companion to this forum, the Pilothouse Knowledge site. the parts catalogs there many people reference: http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/ph_parts/b_21.pdf here is the transmission section, dont know if that will help in your case.

double clutching is becoming a thing of the past with the most recent "loss" of manual transmission options in most passenger and light vehicles(Dodge being last to eliminate the availability of a manual behind the diesel in their trucks) and even people driving manuals. Despite being young(not so young now), I fondly recall driving "ancient" military vehicles(at least to me, a 17 year old(at that time) driving a M818(deuce and a half type semi) with a 250 Cummins and 5 speed) and the only way was to double clutch. another reason Im sticking with a manual in my truck although not some cool 1

great looking truck! I had a similar experience with my B3F, although it took a come-a-long plust a small 542B(gas) Bobcat skid loader to load it...even with fully aired tires!

Been sometime since I posted, sorry about that. I was off work for vacation from Dec 11 to Jan 4th, mix of deer hunting as well as truck work. Doesnt look like much was accomplished but here is a summary: Sterling 10.25" rear axle disassembled, sand blasted, POR-15 and gearset reinstalled, with a fancy diff cover - love some shiny parts! new(to me) rebuilt NV4500 was picked up from Midwest Transmissions in Zumbrota MN power steering pump location finalized and start of brakcetry started(waiting on material to finish) exhaust manifold and turbine housing blasted

I have had good luck with POR15 on sandblasted parts(i.e. front and rear axle housings), here is from their website, it does say rusted are best but others can be used. Just remember that POR15 needs to be topcoated since it doesnt handle UV well. I will say POR15 is great stuff, however when you need to scuff the surface to put the top coat on, depending on the area size and what it is can be a PIA. My Dana 60 front axle only took 1 small can of POR15 to coat it and roughly 30 min. Scuff and wipe down prior to top coat was 2.5 hrs, but maybe Im a little picky. here is the webs

Got some good work done tonight. Replaced the drivers firewall so I can install the hydroboost and dodge pedals. This is my first dabble into sheetmetal so lots of trial and error. Plan to use all AN fitting for engine fluids and Earl's performance products, they make some killer hose and fittings that do not require a hose machine to assemble.

Curious if anyone installed a goose neck ball in their bigger trucks? looking at potentially installing one in my truck while building it. Also, will need a good sturdy receiver hitch to pull a trailer, any ideas from the group on this as well. Truck is using the stock 51 B3F frame so I understand it may require some fabrication. Have a good holiday everyone!

I ordered a new set of cab mounts from DCM, and unfortunately the washer and tube are welded together, so if you can reuse your old metal parts, that may be useful. I had not looked closely at the mounting strategy so been installing incorrectly, but my project is far from driving, so that is ok. Downside I see to the DCM for the 48-53 B series is that they have 4 thick and 4 thin rubber parts. May be different for the C series, although the diagrams are identical to what you show above. Just some thoughts on if you buy a new set of cab mounts, the washer and bushing may not be separate pa

keep up the good work! I love the inverted bucket seat!

I was able to find a local guy that has a 2nd gen(I think, 97-?) Dodge addition and has 6 parts trucks. I was able to work with him, as we both work at the same place, to source many parts from a 1997 Ram with a cummins. this was the first year they offered hydroboost brakes. I was able to purchase the hydroboost + master cylinder, brake/clutch/gas pedal assembly, front and rear driveshafts. This will make life very easy for me since the transmission/transfer case is Dodge, and the shafts are overall too long, which is good since I need to mate them to Ford axles(and of course u-joints are

Finished up the steering last night. Took the stock '93 drag link and shortened it 3.5" so didnt have to make my own version out of DOM tubing and heim joints, or scrounge around to find a suitable length one. cut the long section down, 45 degree grind so I could v weld the two parts together then slide a section of tube over the weld and plug welded that. Have no concerns about it breaking. need to work on making the track bar to hold the axle from moving side to side and provisions for the 3rd steering box bolt and front end will be done. I have moved on to pedal placement an

Got the steering box, mount and frame reinforcement completed. Steering box is from a 2005 F350. Keeping front end parts Ford. Plan to now reinstall the powertrain and start cab mock up for pedals, steering column, brake booster and clutch components. Will have to come back to front suspension for track bar design(as well as 3rd bolt for steering box) and shocks but that'll be later this year.

DCMclassics.com has always been good based on prior forum entries. I have some of their cab mounts and very happy with them. Roberts also has been very well recommended here as well. Nice looking truck! Edit: guess I was wrong, checked DCM and didnt find any rubber there, sorry about that

interesting tidbit I learned from GGDAD1951 when I visited him is that at one time both the pilothouse.org and this forum were the same and were split at some point. Keep up the good work on the build! Im far from needing a harness but good to see the information is still valid and applicable for me since I have a 51 B3F, although do not know if it is early or late.

good to know, thanks! Ill get some more photos of that area, took some time to make sure rear trans cross member had clearance for the double cardan u-joint.