Crimp on terminals for brake light switch wiring?

[Racer-X-]

Are these available?   I'm needing to replace a failed brake light switch that I got from a local source a couple months back.  It's already failed.  Only turns on the brakes when you stand on the pedal hard enough to lock up wheels.

 

Last time, I used a "house brand" from a local parts store that was for a VW/Audi (/Porsche) application and had 0.25" male spades on it, and used metric tube nuts (M10x1.0).  I'm also replumbing the brakes now, and I'd like to go with something that uses the same brake line fittings and such as the rest of the brake system.  Standard Motor Products SLS-25 looks like an exact replacement for the original Mopar part.  Here's a few pix.

 

Where do I get female terminals that attache to that?  How were the wires connected on the stock switch? 

 

Pix, part numbers and sources would be most appreciated.

 

[greg g]

Last one I replaced about three years ago came from NAPA.  it's been working fine.  Alot of motor cycles and ATVs still use them.  If you went to a bike shop, they might carry several different ones with varied connectors, and connectors to match.  I was going to a Harley shop, but didn't think the orange and black box was worth the extra 10 bucks.

[Sam Buchanan]

Ditch the hydraulic switch and mount a mechanical switch at the brake pedal. It'll never leak, and is adjustable for how much pedal travel you want for switch activation.

[Sniper]

I just used those female blue bullet connectors, fit fine and have been working for over two years so far.

 

For future reference, the Standard catalog will list the appropriate connector for a switch if they have one, but in this case it does not list one.

 

 

[keithb7]

I too am a couple years into cheapo female connectors. I trim and tin the wires. Side connector on. Crimp. Then solder. Then heat shrink over top. 
 

 

[LazyK]

2 hours ago, Racer-X- said:

Are these available?   I'm needing to replace a failed brake light switch that I got from a local source a couple months back.  It's already failed.  Only turns on the brakes when you stand on the pedal hard enough to lock up wheels.

 

Last time, I used a "house brand" from a local parts store that was for a VW/Audi (/Porsche) application and had 0.25" male spades on it, and used metric tube nuts (M10x1.0).  I'm also replumbing the brakes now, and I'd like to go with something that uses the same brake line fittings and such as the rest of the brake system.  Standard Motor Products SLS-25 looks like an exact replacement for the original Mopar part.  Here's a few pix.

 

Where do I get female terminals that attache to that?  How were the wires connected on the stock switch? 

 

Pix, part numbers and sources would be most appreciated.

 

male bullet connectors will plug into this switch

[Sam Buchanan]

5 hours ago, LazyK said:

male bullet connectors will plug into this switch

 

Female connectors......if I recall Biology correctly......but I don't get out much......  ?

Edited March 7, 2022 by Sam Buchanan

[DJK]

The op switch picture sure looks like it would take male bullet terminals with wire clips external to secure them.

[Sam Buchanan]

1 hour ago, DJK said:

The op switch picture sure looks like it would take male bullet terminals with wire clips external to secure them.

 

I think you're correct....I was referring to the photo Keithb7 posted.

[Racer-X-]

Thanks to all who replied.  I do have the bullet connectors here, so I should be good to go.  The switch hasn't arrived yet, but when it does, I'll post some pix of how they fit and which ones I used on that Standard Motor Products switch.

 

\

[Eneto-55]

For those who have been crimping their own bullet style connectors, care to share a review of the crimper you use?  (Especially if you have used more than one brand or type.) 

Thanks.

[Sam Buchanan]

You need a ratcheting crimper for consistent crimps that will stand the test of time. There are several brands, the more expensive ones are probably better for commercial use, but the "consumer" grade crimpers usually work well. The advantage of ratcheting crimpers is they crimp the terminals the same amount each time and also crimp the insulator for strain relief of the wire. The cheap crimpers found in auto parts stores depend on the grip of the user, crimps can be either barely ok or abysmal.

 

[keithb7]

Sorry edited to removed redundant post.

Edited March 12, 2022 by keithb7

[Eneto-55]

1 hour ago, Sam Buchanan said:

You need a ratcheting crimper for consistent crimps that will stand the test of time. There are several brands, the more expensive ones are probably better for commercial use, but the "consumer" grade crimpers usually work well. The advantage of ratcheting crimpers is they crimp the terminals the same amount each time and also crimp the insulator for strain relief of the wire. The cheap crimpers found in auto parts stores depend on the grip of the user, crimps can be either barely ok or abysmal.

 

I think I can see a model number under the Klein Tools name, but I cannot make out what it says.  Is that one that you have?

[Los_Control]

I also do the same, although would prefer a good quality non insulated connector that does not have the plastic covering on them.

Then tin, crimp, solder the connection and cover with shrink tubing. I thought this would be a first quality connection.

I also suggested this method to a similar question on another forum.

 

Oh boy did I get put in my place ... was a dog pile and I was on the bottom  ???

It was pointed out to me that automotive wire is stranded & flexible for a reason, if you solder it you lose the flexibility. All of our air planes, space shuttle automobiles are in a high stress situation and the wiring is crimped not soldered. yada yada yada ...

 

With that said, yeah I think tinning/soldering is the way I will build my harness. I do not expect to be passing the sound barrier in my pilothouse.

I can visually see the connection, tug on it, I know it is good, I feel it will last as long as I am going to be around.

 

 

1 hour ago, Sam Buchanan said:

The advantage of ratcheting crimpers is they crimp the terminals the same amount each time and also crimp the insulator for strain relief of the wire.

 This is truly the proper way, sometimes is not too easy and almost need 3 hands. Just standard crimps can be tough. You line up the terminal & wire then get crimps in place .... if one of them move you will have a faulty crimp. With the insulation covering it you will not see it. The right tool the ratcheting crimps, is even more difficult to hold everything while pumping the handle.

 

I simply do not trust myself, If building a wire harness from scratch, I have 50-75 terminals to crimp. I would bet at least 5 will fail in 2 years. And most likely the toughest ones to get to  

[Eneto-55]

42 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

I also do the same, although would prefer a good quality non insulated connector that does not have the plastic covering on them.

Then tin, crimp, solder the connection and cover with shrink tubing. I thought this would be a first quality connection.

I also suggested this method to a similar question on another forum.

 

Oh boy did I get put in my place ... was a dog pile and I was on the bottom  ???

It was pointed out to me that automotive wire is stranded & flexible for a reason, if you solder it you lose the flexibility. All of our air planes, space shuttle automobiles are in a high stress situation and the wiring is crimped not soldered. yada yada yada ...

 

With that said, yeah I think tinning/soldering is the way I will build my harness. I do not expect to be passing the sound barrier in my pilothouse.

I can visually see the connection, tug on it, I know it is good, I feel it will last as long as I am going to be around.

 

 

 This is truly the proper way, sometimes is not too easy and almost need 3 hands. Just standard crimps can be tough. You line up the terminal & wire then get crimps in place .... if one of them move you will have a faulty crimp. With the insulation covering it you will not see it. The right tool the ratcheting crimps, is even more difficult to hold everything while pumping the handle.

 

I simply do not trust myself, If building a wire harness from scratch, I have 50-75 terminals to crimp. I would bet at least 5 will fail in 2 years. And most likely the toughest ones to get to  

I didn't catch that, that these crimpers are for the connectors with the plastic sleeve.  I don't like those plastic deals, either, and always cut them off if I cannot find the bare type.  I do a lot of heat shrinking in my business, and just use a small hair dryer to do it.  But that is standard thin-wall heat-shrink tube, so I don't know if it would work with heavy wall tubing, as was used on our cars originally.  (Still looking for a source for that, too.  I get a lot of supplies at Allied Electronics, but I haven't seen that they have heavy wall shrink tube.)

 

Regarding soldering, I've heard that bit about the "disadvantages" - but my thinking is to just solder the end where you see the end of the wire.  That's what I've usually done in electronics equipment & in automotive wiring in the past (like adding in wiring for a trailer, etc., on daily drivers).

[Los_Control]

Well you have a big advantage over me, you have some professional experience with electronics. .... Only thing close I have is house wiring and they are different.

I was searching for a photo to display the non insulated connectors for visual effect. I found this outfit here .... know nothing about them prices seemed reasonable and the connectors look like decent quality. They stock a lot of inventory. Might be worth a look.

https://www.sherco-auto.com/non-insulated-bullet-connectors.html

 

I get it though. Last year had a no crank issue on my chebby truck. Most likely a bad solenoid. To work on it had to jack it up and get it on jack stands, remove the starter.

Then I found I had some crispy heat soaked wires to trigger the solenoid. Most likely was the only problem.

I replaced a foot or so of the wires, I then used 3 layers of heat shrink to cover it up. Using different sizes. Then put a new plastic wire loom cover over it. For additional heat protection.      Also replaced the battery cable & starter while I had them out. Taking no chances.

 

Just thinking to double up the shrink tube may be a viable option in areas it is needed?

[Los_Control]

Just to toss it out there .... possibly the ratchet crimps will work on these just as well as insulated ends?

 

[Eneto-55]

3 hours ago, Los_Control said:

Well you have a big advantage over me, you have some professional experience with electronics. .... Only thing close I have is house wiring and they are different.

I was searching for a photo to display the non insulated connectors for visual effect. I found this outfit here .... know nothing about them prices seemed reasonable and the connectors look like decent quality. They stock a lot of inventory. Might be worth a look.

https://www.sherco-auto.com/non-insulated-bullet-connectors.html

 

I get it though. Last year had a no crank issue on my chebby truck. Most likely a bad solenoid. To work on it had to jack it up and get it on jack stands, remove the starter.

Then I found I had some crispy heat soaked wires to trigger the solenoid. Most likely was the only problem.

I replaced a foot or so of the wires, I then used 3 layers of heat shrink to cover it up. Using different sizes. Then put a new plastic wire loom cover over it. For additional heat protection.      Also replaced the battery cable & starter while I had them out. Taking no chances.

 

Just thinking to double up the shrink tube may be a viable option in areas it is needed?

Allied Electronics DOES carry heat resistant sheathing.  My Bro-in-law is an electrician, and has often gotten contracts to pull old style lighting and install new stuff.  Can lights usually have the part of the wires inside the light fixture covered with this stuff.  You can just slip it off - it's not bonded.  I have scavenged some of that, and plan to use it in places like inside the heater motor, which I have to rewire because of extremely stiff baked wire coating. 

 

I cannot afford to use the cloth covered wire in my car, so I want to experiment with this stuff, to see if I can find a durable & flexible paint I can coat this sheathing with, in different colors.  I would do this on the exposed parts of the wire, especially under the hood, to make it look more like the old style wire.  (This sheathing is woven, just like the original woven cotton, although the threads are finer that the cotton stuff was.)  Painting the strikers on it would be the big time-consuming part of this, and it may look worse than just using the modern type wire.  I won't do it on the wire harness unless the test pieces look pretty good.

Edited March 12, 2022 by Eneto-55
spelling/typing errors

[Sam Buchanan]

8 hours ago, Eneto-55 said:

I think I can see a model number under the Klein Tools name, but I cannot make out what it says.  Is that one that you have?

 

I think that particular crimper in addition to Amazon is also available at Home Depot. I'm helping a friend wire his airplane, he has this crimper and it works fine.

 

My crimper is a different brand which I don't recall and has served me well for 25 years of wiring several cars, boats and airplanes.

[Sam Buchanan]

I don't understand the dislike for terminals with plastic sleeves. Those terminals are preferred for every type automotive and aviation wiring I've ever done. The reason some may not like the plastic version might be due to using cheap, low-quality terminals.....I'm talking about the ones you find in the chain auto parts stores.

 

Good terminals with plastic sleeves are designed to be used with ratcheting crimpers and provide strain relief of the wire without resorting to soldering which can introduce stresses in the wire if not done according to military standards (I used to be a certified instructor in military soldering on wiring harnesses and circuit boards).

 

But even if you use the cheap terminals, and I do sometimes, all that is necessary is to visually confirm the wire is inserted all the way into the terminal--you can see the end of the wire next to the business end of the terminal--before crimping. If that is done, and the proper size terminal is used for the particular wire, and a good crimper is used, there should be 100% reliability of the crimp. 

 

The crimped terminals on the aircraft I built 23 years ago have been totally reliable, but I used good technique with high-quality terminals and crimper. 

 

Here is the terminal strip in the P15 that connects the turn signal switch to the car's harness.

 

Edited March 13, 2022 by Sam Buchanan

[Sniper]

I can tell you that plastic sleeved connectors were never milspec when I was in.  Nor was I ever taught to use them when I went thru soldering classes in the Navy.  We rarely crimped and when we did it was crimp AND solder and rubber bushings that sealed the connector from the elements provided the strain relief in conjunction with the clamp built into the end of the connector.

 

You look at that picture you provide and those plastic sleeve provide no strain relief whatsoever.

 

An example milspec connector below

 

[Los_Control]

Years ago my employer had a 2 seater Cessna. So did his friend. They were talking one day and both getting ready to fly to Mexico for a two week hunting vacation.

They were deciding which plane they would fly down in.

 

Chuck was complaining his oil pressure was a little low and he may need to do some work on it but it was running ok.

 

Bill said yeah, He had the same problem. Stuck a penny inside the oil pump to shim it and working ok now. So they took Bill's plane .

 

Just thinking, just because it is aircraft, does not mean it is correct. .... Was even more hilarious to listen to his Wife explain how Bill was going to the DR to get a penicillin  shot when he returned before sleeping in the bedroom.

 

I suppose pilots are resourceful people.

[Eneto-55]

51 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

I don't understand the dislike for terminals with plastic sleeves.

For me, it's mostly an appearance issue.  Those bright colors just don't look period correct.  (I know, the wiring I plan to use won't either, but I'm trying to think of ways to diminish that effect.)

[RobertKB]

If you don’t like the colour, use some black shrink wrap over the terminals.  Looks better and protects better as well.