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About Racer-X-

  • Birthday 09/02/1963

Profile Information

  • Location
    North Georgia, USA
  • My Project Cars
    Elvis - 1947 DeSoto Custom Sedan


  • Location
    North Georgia, USA
  • Interests
    Sports cars, racing, autocross, resto-mod "classic" and "antique" cars

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  1. Thanks to all who replied. I do have the bullet connectors here, so I should be good to go. The switch hasn't arrived yet, but when it does, I'll post some pix of how they fit and which ones I used on that Standard Motor Products switch. \
  2. Are these available? I'm needing to replace a failed brake light switch that I got from a local source a couple months back. It's already failed. Only turns on the brakes when you stand on the pedal hard enough to lock up wheels. Last time, I used a "house brand" from a local parts store that was for a VW/Audi (/Porsche) application and had 0.25" male spades on it, and used metric tube nuts (M10x1.0). I'm also replumbing the brakes now, and I'd like to go with something that uses the same brake line fittings and such as the rest of the brake system. Standard Motor Products SLS-25 looks like an exact replacement for the original Mopar part. Here's a few pix. Where do I get female terminals that attache to that? How were the wires connected on the stock switch? Pix, part numbers and sources would be most appreciated.
  3. This isn't an original tank. It's a "for fuel injection" type reproduction/adaptation. The filler neck into the tank isn't completely at the top. In addition to the vent fitting on top, it has two openings on top, one for a FITech pump assembly, and one for a gauge sender. The cap looks fairly new as well, and seems to be a sealed type. I guess I could still just run the vent hose to a fitting installed on the filler neck and use a vented (or make a vented) cap. Of course, I do have the charcoal canister already available. Hose is pretty cheap. The only thing I'd need is a bracket (easy enough to make). And I wouldn't have to worry about gas smells near the back corner on a hot day from fumes venting out of the tank that way. I really need to completely eliminate any chance of fuel odors, whatever I do. Thanks for all the input.
  4. Back seat passengers (the ones that pay the bills on this project) have been complaining of fuel odors. So I've been working on the fuel system at the rear. One thing I've noticed is, the tank we have (I think it's a reproduction or aftermarket tank) has a vent fitting on top, and there's a hose from that fitting to a metal (aluminum?) "remote vent fitting" which looks suspiciously like the Holley 19-174 unit. That hose and vent is tied to the fuel filler neck with a zip tie. I see a couple of issues with this. During refueling at the gas station, the fumes/vapors from the tank are going to go out the vent and collect under the car in the rear fender area. They could be drawn into the car depending on airflow when the car starts driving again. Also, when the thing is parked in hot weather, and the fuel in the tank expands, those vapors/fumes are released into that rear fender area, and again might be making their way into the rear cabin when the car starts driving again. According to the drivers, the problem seems to be the worst when they start driving after it's been parked, so this is consistent with my theories. Here's my proposed solution. I'm looking for any advice or suggestions for changes. I plan to weld or braze a pipe onto the filler neck pipe, up near the cap, and fit an appropriate hose barb there to run the hose from the vent fitting on the top of the tank up to the filler neck. That should allow the vapor recovery systems at the gas stations to capture the vapors that vent from the tank during refueling. The down side to that is the cap is sealed, and there will be no vent to let air in as fuel is consumed, nor to let air/pressure out if it's parked in a hot location and the fuel in the tank expands. To solve those two issues, I plan to install a tee fitting in the hose, and run from that tee fitting to a charcoal canister. I plan to move the vent fitting I have to the vent port on the charcoal canister. That way, any vapors out of the tank will go through the activated charcoal filter in the canister, and hopefully the air that vents will not have a strong fuel odor. And as fuel is consumed, the air will be screened by the vent fitting and filtered in the activated charcoal filter in the canister. The canister I have is a 1990's Mopar canister. It's part number 4601673. I got mine from a 1994 Caravan, but many Mopars from the early 1990s used this unit. One nice thing is that the bottom unscrews, and the activated charcoal filter inside is replacable. Rock Auto has the filter elements for under $2. Does anyone have any suggestions or advice about this? Has anyone else had issues with fuel smells inside their car?
  5. You guys here are AWESOME! Thanks to everyone who posted, and especially thanks for the pix. I'm not sure if I'll go with the original panhard, or fab up a new custom one, but I will definitely be putting a panhard on Elvis. Those springs didn't look like they were entirely adequate for lateral locating the axle, especially with wider more modern tires, and a panhard will help keep the car centered over the rear axle. It'll also help locate/relocate the rear roll center (it's at the center of the panhard, exactly half way between the two ends for one with an odd shape like this one).
  6. Awesome! This forum has been so helpful. Does the axle end of that attach to the leaf spring bracketry at the axle on the passenger side? Or directly to the axle?
  7. Thanks @Plymouthy Adams Does anyone have pix of the stock panhard rod? I like the adjustability of that bracket. I may remove it but keep it and relocate it for a panhard behind the axle.
  8. Here are the pix of it. Is this for a panhard rod? Did this car originally have one? The current rear axle is not original. And we'll be replacing it with a late 1960s-early 1970's B Body 8.75" rear end soon. On one hand, it might be handy to remove that bracket and use that space for the fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator for the LS1 engine. I wouldn't need such long supply and return lines from the tank if I put the filter there. On the other hand, with 255/60R15 tires going on when we put the final axle swap in, a panhard rod to keep things where they belong under cornering loads might be a really good idea™ and I might want to leave the bracket there so I can fab up a panhard and attach it there.
  9. Racer-X-

    Mystery bracket on frame at rear

    This bracket is on the frame just in front of the rear wheel. What's the purpose of it? Can I remove it?
  10. I take it the fill plug wasn't a problem. One thing I learned, always remove the fill plug first, before even trying to remove the drain plug. Words can't describe how bad it sucks to have all the old lubed drained out of the diff and then to discover that the fill plug is buggered up/stripped/rounded out and seized. Don't ask me how I know this.
  11. I forgot to address this in my other post today. I brought one of the light assemblies home, and exchanged it with one I have here in a Miata. When installed in the headlight assembly (reflector, lens, bulb) is perfectly aimed and aligned (level), and precisely matches the performance of the older Cibie unit I have in the Miata. The issue isn't the new lamp assemblies.
  12. @Andydodge, That's essentially what I have. There are 3 pieces in the setup, in addition to the bulb. I've been calling them the bucket (the part screwed to the car), the seat (the part the adjusters and spring hold in), and the trim ring (the piece that goes over the bulb/lens to hold it in). So the adjusters are at the bottom and the side of the bucket and seat? On mine, the adjusters are on the top and the side. Perhaps these things are installed upside down, and maybe flipping them over will line things up more properly. Or maybe that's an Australia thing that's "upside down" for you compared to us Yanks in the northern hemisphere. Thinking about it, mine can't be upside down, because then the optics would be upside down, and the cutoff pattern would be upside down (dark below the cutoff on low beam, instead of dark above the cutoff), and my pattern is almost right side up, just about 10° off level. Also, the trim ring holes aren't evenly spaced. It only fits one way. The sealed beam bulb (or the reflector/lens optics assembly if you use H4 lights) has some "tabs" on the back, and there are recesses in the "seat" piece that match those tabs. Those make it where the bulb/optics assembly only fits in one position. I can't rotate the lens/reflector in the seat, it won't move. It only fits in one position. The adjusters obviously limit the rotation of the seat within the bucket. And the bucket itself is keyed to the opening in the car. I didn't get over to work on Elvis yesterday. The owner rescheduled me for later this week. I think he's got the Flu or something (not Covid, he took an at-home test for that, and it was negative). So I don't have pix yet.
  13. The spring is there. Well, I'm not sure it's the spring, but a spring is definitely there. And to be clear, the adjusters work. I can adjust on both axes. Of course, the up and down adjustment has slight left-right movement because of the tilt, and the left-right adjustment has a little up and down movement for the same reason. I'll try to get some pix later today and post them tonight or tomorrow morning. Looking at the thing, the riveted pieces in the bucket that are for the adjusters look like they should be straight up (for the top adjuster) and straight to the rights side of the car (for the side adjuster). On Elvis, on the right headlight, those appear to be twisted slightly from where they should be. And there are some of the mounting screws that look like they should be level, but they're off by a little bit (probably rotated a little over 10 degrees from level).
  14. OK. We installed some new headlights in Elvis. Cibie/Valeo H4 units. My personal favorite headlights in the 7" round form factor. So, I get them installed in the buckets. The right side bucket, I replaced the drywall screws with what appear to be the correct adjusters. Everything fits together the way I expected. ... ... However, the thing is tilted a little more than 10 degrees. The horizontal cutoff is over 10 degrees down on the left side, and the right side that is supposed to kick up at 15° is kicked up a little over 25 degrees. So my first though was, I'll just take it apart and rotate the bucket where it mounts to the car. Except that is keyed and won't rotate more than a couple degrees. Actually everything between there and the optics/bulb is keyed. I had everything installed properly in the keyed openings, and the thing was still off over 10 degrees. How do I fix this? Do I have to start carving on the car? or on the bucket? Was it "normal" for the headlights on these vehicles to be off level by more than 10 degrees?
  15. When/if you call Wilwood for a recommendation, they'll need some information including: Piston diameter and piston count of front calipers Piston diameter and piston count of rear calipers Overall pedal ratio (this includes both the pedal linkage itself and any lever or bellcrank between the pedal connection and the master cylinder piston) Total stroke of the master cylinder piston from top of pedal travel to bottom of pedal travel. If you have that information ready, they'll be able to help you out much more. As @Sniper pointed out, too big a master cylinder bore and the pedal gets too hard to push and you can't get full braking (lockup) with your leg strength. Too small of a master cylinder will result in running out of pedal travel before you get to full braking (lockup), although the pedal will be much easier to push.
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