Rewiring question before I start

[Dodgefran]

I am starting from scratch on my project in a few weeks.  The previous owner stripped the wires completely so I have only a diagram to follow.  Wire rolls from the parts store, Rhode Island Wiring, or one of those wiring harness kits on Ebay?  I was wondering what and how some of you have done it, and some sage advise on what you found doing the job.  Thanks in advanced.

 

Dodgefran

[Tom Skinner]

Dodgefran,

I bought my wiring from Rhode Island Wiring. Everything is tagged and color coded just right on both ends of every wire. Go slow tackle a little every day. Engine bay one Day, Transmission the next, Under the Dash the next, etc..

You will be pleased with the results. This is just my humble opinion, not a pitch for R.I.W. . Also when I had a question I could call them and a technical gal there whose name escapes me now (it has been 10 years) answered the phone in person and answered all my questions accurately and in a very friendly way. Good luck with your choice.

Tom 

[Sniper]

I used a universal kit from Speedway Motors and wired up my car.  But I've been farting about with MoPars for decades, did a lot of non-original upgrades with more coming and have been in the electronics industry since 84.  So I felt comfortable doing this. 

 

The RI harness has many benefits, it matches the factory wiring and color coding, the instructions are nice and the phone help is good.  None of which applied to my swap.

[Kilgore47]

I used a universal 6 volt positive ground harness from Rebel wire.  Not original.  Comes complete with a fuse block and wiring for turn signals and all the connectors.  All wires are labeled every 6 inches telling you where they go.  Phone help was excellent.  It's a universal kit so you have to cut the wires to length and add the connectors.  Just took my time and double checked everything as I went.  Everything worked when I was done.

[Plymouthy Adams]

NUMBER  of question you have to answer for yourself.  Do you wish to remain 6 volt....or upgrade to 12 for future adds of accessories or creature comforts.  Do you want added protection on your circuits?  Mainly how comfortable are you with working a wiring loom.  If stock is your goal, couple companies offer these in cloth and color as original.  If going 12 volt a multi-fused circuit would be good investment and decide first which accessories for upgrade.  Each harness is often tailored around a donor manufacturer.   Lastly if you are not at all comfortable with standing on your head and reading schematics....you may wish just to patch what you find wrong for now or find someone who is willing to do the work and do get references...many are not at the level of expertise as they claim to be.    

[Marcel Backs]

RIWW harness matches all stock colours and is period correct. They have even improved the original type insulation to be safer maintaining an original appearance. If you will be rodding the car and adding extra circuits, a generic replacement harness would be the way to go. It all depends in which direction you bring your project; stocker or equally great, a custom. All the best, M.

[Dartgame]

I used a universal wiring kit for 12volts. I decided to get one that would more than serve the needs and got a 22 fuse unit called Highway 22 made by american autowire. I liked their set up because the wires are not attached to the fuse panel, so you have the flexibility of determining your wire length without a huge bunch of wires already attached making it a messy process. The fuse panel has screw down terminals, very nice system, but not cheap, you get what you pay for.

[allbizz49]

If you're not worried about originality, Rebel wire. 

[Los_Control]

While I am not interested in making mine original with cloth wiring etc. My goal is to rewire with original 6 volt sized wire. Stay 6 volt but have the option to change to 12 volt in the future.

 

What bothers me about the available wiring harness, you get way more then what you need. So you either cut 1/2 of it off or zip tie it up under the dash.

 

Wire and quality fittings are not cheap .... I kinda suspect you can buy a harness for not much more money then buying parts individually.

So I do not think or feel I am saving money by making my own harness.

I feel my 49 dodge truck is so simple, I will do exactly what it needs, not more not less. I think that will look so much cleaner then a aftermarket harness.

I also have the original harness to duplicate ... this helps to make my job easier.

 

Modifications I expect to add, is a fuse box of sorts. I want to fuse the lights, heater, radio, cab lights, turn signals. There really is not that much more on a old truck.

[Conn47D24]

RIW is a good choice

[chrysler1941]

6 or 12v just remember two key words.

Fuses and good ground connections.

You can never have enough

[James_Douglas]

I used Paul Little at Harnesses Unlimited for my 1949 Desoto which is stock. It was a very nice harness and looks great.

 

For my 1947 Rebuild, I will be using Coach Controls for the main panel and using cross-linked Polyethylene for all the wiring. Not PVC which is what 90% of the kit suppliers use. I am doing so many modifications to the 1947 Suburban, with electric power assist, electric water pump, electric fans, AC and the like...

 

James.

[Plymouthy Adams]

you sacrificing flexibility and adding flammable jacket here.....really not any better and less suitable than PVC overall...I would have figured you on using teflon coated wiring.....now that is tough stuff.

Edited May 26, 2021 by Plymouthy Adams

[Dodgefran]

Thanks for all of the answers.  There seem to be quite a few choices for sure.  That's what I like about this forum.  15 years ago when I joined, there were some "participants" who would have (and did) answered "Why do you want to do it that way for" instead of telling us How they did it.  There are as many ways to do something.  We try it and if it works, we pass it on.  If it doesn't work, we "change the subject".   Your different choices are the underlying info that I need.  I'm relatively new at this at 79.  Keep the info coming for guys like me.   Thank you, Thank you, Thank you,

[Sniper]

21 hours ago, chrysler1941 said:

6 or 12v just remember two key words.

Fuses and good ground connections.

You can never have enough

 

Exactly right, when I did my rewiring I ran a bunch of added grounds, for example the tail light, front turn signal and license plate light housing all have a ground wire attached.  I added a body ground to the battery ground connection. 

[Eneto-55]

I have also been preparing to do this task, but my work keeps getting in the way of my hobby....   I would like to use wire with the original loom appearance, especially under the hood.  But I will probably settle for good quality modern wire.  I'll just advise not to skimp on wire quality.  I've been warned that the cheaper wire that is marked primarily in metrics is often not really the full gauge they advertise it as.  I'm aiming for stranded wire of the same strand count as well as the correct gauge.  Heavier strand wire appears to be a lot cheaper, but it doesn't survive the flexing that takes place in an automobile as well (especially under the hood).  I would also like to use marine wire, which is tinned copper, and I'm not sure that any of the wire harnesses available take it to that level of quality.  Sure, I'll pay more for the wire, but I'll know that I did my best.  (I've been looking at wire mainly at Allied Electronics, but would like to hear of other sources as well.  Currently still working on getting all of the measurements down, as I get time to work on this.  We just have too many other things going on right now for me to be able to spend much time on it now.)

[chrysler1941]

4 hours ago, Eneto-55 said:

cheaper wire that is marked primarily in metrics is often not really the full gauge they advertise it as

= China

 

Agree with you except I live in a country were high quality copper wiring is in metric ?

Anyway I don't recommend tinned wiring, they also do not hold up vibrations from cars.

Best and most expensive wiring are multi strand copper wiring, like high end speaker cables. 

[Eneto-55]

24 minutes ago, chrysler1941 said:

= China

 

Agree with you except I live in a country were high quality copper wiring is in metric ?

Anyway I don't recommend tinned wiring, they also do not hold up vibrations from cars.

Best and most expensive wiring are multi strand copper wiring, like high end speaker cables. 

I should have said - I was talking about tinned stranded wire.  The first part of my car on which I got started with the wiring was the heater motor wire, and since it is tinned stranded wire, at first I had the impression that ALL of the wire used was tinned.  Actually, I think that is the only part I've found that was tinned.  Take a look at marine wire to see what I'm referring to.  It is fine strand wire, but also tinned, to better resist the dampness associated with boating.  

As to number of strands for a given gauge, I have compared wire used in a 93 Chrysler minivan I stripped out with the wire in my old Plymouth, and for the same gauge, the older car had a lot more strands.  (I also compared the strand thickness with a micrometer.)

Sorry about the generalization about metric sized wire - yes, what I ran into was poor quality wire from the place you mentioned.

[chrysler1941]

2 minutes ago, Eneto-55 said:

I should have said - I was talking about tinned stranded wire.  The first part of my car on which I got started with the wiring was the heater motor wire, and since it is tinned stranded wire, at first I had the impression that ALL of the wire used was tinned.  Actually, I think that is the only part I've found that was tinned.  Take a look at marine wire to see what I'm referring to.  It is fine strand wire, but also tinned, to better resist the dampness associated with boating.  

As to number of strands for a given gauge, I have compared wire used in a 93 Chrysler minivan I stripped out with the wire in my old Plymouth, and for the same gauge, the older car had a lot more strands.  (I also compared the strand thickness with a micrometer.)

Sorry about the generalization about metric sized wire - yes, what I ran into was poor quality wire from the place you mentioned.

No worries, I understood you, that's the reason for the smiling face.

With high copper prices nowadays, they are many experiments with cheaper materials for wiring.  Tinned wirings are sometimes not copper core tinned, but something else. Yes they resist salt and moisture better. But they don't experience the same vibrations as cars do. 

[NickPickToo]

We sourced our wiring from YnZ, including the turn signal, alternator and everything we needed for the 12 volt conversion.  It looked really scary when I unpacked the whole thing, but instructions were clear and everything made sense when I started putting it in.  We called them before ordering and then as we had questions along the way.  They were very responsive.  The carry a lot wiring related accessories as well.

 

https://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/