Me and the B-1-C

[billrigsby]

Those look nice, I don't think I have ever seen a D (1 Ton) with caps?

Need to double check all my wheels. Do they attach with those clips?

 

 

 

 

[Worden18]

5 minutes ago, billrigsby said:

Those look nice, I don't think I have ever seen a D (1 Ton) with caps?

Need to double check all my wheels. Do they attach with those clips?

 

 

 

 

My D has the split ring Budd type wheels.  These caps are for my C.  They attach with the clips, yes.  It just so happens that a whole mess of extra parts that came with my D aren't even for a 1 ton, including the hubcap ?

[Dodgeb4ya]

Shown here is the factory new front and rear Dodge 1 ton "Hub" caps...actually sold for the W series 1 ton trucks.

I have had a set on my 52 1 ton for many years.

 

[billrigsby]

 

OK, I do have the smaller ones for the front, albeit not chrome and no D logo.

I'll PM you with the shipping address to send those to.   ?

[Brent B3B]

1 hour ago, billrigsby said:

 

OK, I do have the smaller ones for the front, albeit not chrome and no D logo.

I'll PM you with the shipping address to send those to.   ?

Rob has duals on the rear.... you wouldn’t forgive yourself if you had them and they got damaged somehow.
Keep walking Bill, nothing to see here ?

[Dodgeb4ya]

Those axle hub caps are certainly a very hard item to find.

I'd consider letting them go but I'm not dead yet?

 

[Young Ed]

7 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Those axle hub caps are certainly a very hard item to find.

I'd consider letting them go but I'm not dead yet?

 

Yup and all the 39-47 guys complain about the pilot house guys using them up.....

[Dodgeb4ya]

1 hour ago, Young Ed said:

Yup and all the 39-47 guys complain about the pilot house guys using them up.....

The only Pilot House I've ever seen with those caps on it is mine..glad that it's not me causing the problem of hogging all those caps?

[Worden18]

4-12:

Tonight I took the driver's rear wheel off to see if I could fix the little tabs that hold on the hubcaps. Four of the five are broken off.  seems to me the button heads are mushroomed on the back side, so I ground them flush and tapped them out with a drive punch.  Going to order some new ones from DCM tonight.  It'll be nice to see the hubcaps in place eventually.  The Weber carburetor I ordered is on backorder, and if it doesn't come this week I'm going to order the EMPI clone from Langdon's and use the Weber on my one ton whenever it shows up.  Tired of waiting around ?

[JBNeal]

I found a rim at a wrecking yard in '95 that was kinda beat up, like it discovered a curb at a cruising speed...formed it back with a 5# hammer as best as I could to make use for a spare tire.  Its hubcap clips were intact, so I removed the rivets to re-use the clips on the rims that had broken clips.  Ironically enough, the cardboard box of rivets that had been in Grandpa's toolbox since the 70s were the right size, Dad said those were used on the sickle bar for the combine grain cutting head.  He said they would replace broken teeth with a cold chisel, 5# hammer and punch to remove, and set the rivets with the rail iron anvil with that 5#, all in the field if necessary.  They make a tool to set those rivets without flattening the heads too much, but I opted to rig a die with some scrap steel by drilling the head diameter in one piece to attempt to set the rivet, and other pieces as spacers to keep the rim from bouncing around on the concrete.  They came out OK, not show quality but look fine when covered with a hubcap and driving into town for a chicken fried steak ?

[Worden18]

21 hours ago, JBNeal said:

I found a rim at a wrecking yard in '95 that was kinda beat up, like it discovered a curb at a cruising speed...formed it back with a 5# hammer as best as I could to make use for a spare tire.  Its hubcap clips were intact, so I removed the rivets to re-use the clips on the rims that had broken clips.  Ironically enough, the cardboard box of rivets that had been in Grandpa's toolbox since the 70s were the right size, Dad said those were used on the sickle bar for the combine grain cutting head.  He said they would replace broken teeth with a cold chisel, 5# hammer and punch to remove, and set the rivets with the rail iron anvil with that 5#, all in the field if necessary.  They make a tool to set those rivets without flattening the heads too much, but I opted to rig a die with some scrap steel by drilling the head diameter in one piece to attempt to set the rivet, and other pieces as spacers to keep the rim from bouncing around on the concrete.  They came out OK, not show quality but look fine when covered with a hubcap and driving into town for a chicken fried steak ?

I'll probably end up using socket head cap screws with a lockwasher and nut.  Like you said, the hubcap will cover it up! ?

Edited April 16, 2021 by Worden18

[RobertKB]

That’s how I replace those clips. Small machine bolt that just fits through rivet hole. Bolt head is never larger than rivet head so works well. Place clip in place, then lock washer and finally nut. Bolt and nut are totally hidden by the cap.

I usually cut the bolt to wanted length and when everything is in place paint them wheel colour. Not noticeable unless pointed out and unseen with cap on as mentioned. 

Edited April 16, 2021 by RobertKB

[JBNeal]

if ya really want to save some big bucks, skip the lockwashers and tighten the nuts so that three bolt threads are visible, then hammer the end of the bolt to mushroom the threads out...that oughta keep that nut from going anywhere, and look at all the $$$ ya save  

[Worden18]

4-24-21:

Worked on the hubcap clips today.  The replacement ones (from DCM) are not the correct size...at least for the rims I have, and in comparison to the original clips.  So I fabbed some 1/4" spacers to get the replacements to the right height.  Then I ground off the nut on the back side just enough so they wouldn't hit the brake drum before the area of the rim that's supposed to touch the drum. 

First pic: original clip.

Second pic: replacements with aluminum spacers.

Third pic: backside ground down.

[cmalcolm]

Great stuff you have there. Nice progress as well. 

[Worden18]

4-28-21:

After my little engine fire awhile back that melted a couple of my plugwires and blackened a few things, I made some good progress today.  I installed new plugs, wires, battery, fuel filter, rerouted gas line to carb, and put on a 2bbl Weber clone like the Meadowbrook has.  It popped right off!  I set the idle mixture screw and the idle.  My son and I took it around (within 4 blocks of home) for a shakedown cruise.  So far so good ?

Got a bunch of waves and some "what is that thing?" looks ?

I have a lot of work to do yet, but it's driveable.  Next on my list: exhaust...

[Worden18]

4-29:

Long lost brothers meeting for the first time. ?

Did some garage cleaning so I could back in the 3/4 ton.  Now I can work on it out of the weather. ?

Edited April 30, 2021 by Worden18

[Worden18]

5-5-21:

After driving the truck a little bit more I quickly found out that it is a real dog under a load. I suspected the timing is retarded too far and the point gap is too big. The other night I pulled the distributor and found out the point gap was about .040.  I set it back to .030 and then advanced the timing with it idling. It ran much better and was not a dog under a load like before. We had a little downfall though when we got into the alley by my garage: the truck died like it ran out of gas.  I couldn't get it restarted. I knew I wasn't out of gas but checked anyway, that wasn't the problem. I looked down the carburetor and pulled the accelerator linkage and it's bone dry. I kind of figured the old fuel pump would go on the fritz. I was just happy it happened when I was home. Tonight I pulled the fuel pump off and to my surprise laying on my bench is a little flat plate (pictured).  It was in the extra parts bins that came with my B-1-D.  That's going to be the plate that seals up the hole.  The bolts fit through it and everything. Tomorrow I'll take it to work and grind it flat and buff the edges to get the rust off. Then all I have to do is make a gasket.  Once that's done I can work on the electric fuel pump.  Does anyone know the real purpose of that plate?

Edited May 6, 2021 by Worden18

[Worden18]

May 16:

Out for a 30 minute test drive after installing the electric fuel pump the correct way haha ?

Edited May 17, 2021 by Worden18

[Worden18]

Took off my rear axle vent tube/fitting the other day.  It wasn't blocked, but dirty enough for me to soak it for a couple of days.  I put it back together the way the previous owner had it, with a short rubber hose over the end and a bolt with the threads ground down opposite one another to help it breathe.  Just wondering how everyone else has theirs set up?  Short piece of rubber hose coming off? A longer piece of hose leading somewhere?

I have other problems I need to address. The driver's rear axle seal leaks.

[dcotant]

Mine had a little metal cap that was kind of scrunched to stay on. Just noticed the other day that it fell off at some time. Need to check my parts truck to see if that one is still there otherwise i might use your method.

[JBNeal]

additional information - rear axle breather bolt

[Worden18]

5-24:

To work and back today.  No problems.  I'll take a look at the rear wheel to see if that axle seal leaked. If so, then I had one problem. ?

I got 2 different thumbs up and some smiles.  People love to see an old truck! ?

 

Edited May 24, 2021 by Worden18

[Worden18]

5-24:

Out cruising with the kids.  Filled up the tank.  I'm averaging 7.6mpg.  I thought it would be about 5, so bonus for me. 

Stopped for a quick photo on one of Winona's old brick streets. ?

 

[ggdad1951]

8 hours ago, Worden18 said:

5-24:

Out cruising with the kids.  Filled up the tank.  I'm averaging 7.6mpg.  I thought it would be about 5, so bonus for me. 

Stopped for a quick photo on one of Winona's old brick streets. ?

 

 

Mileage seems a little low?