Need to know if 53 Belvedere has a special washer on rear end before nut

[DavidJose1]

I'm going to be using the stock hubs likely in my set up and need to figure out if there is a washer that goes between the bearing and nut that holds the slotted hub on? If so where can I find them to purchase?

[capt den]

just a flat washer. use it again

[DavidJose1]

On 10/24/2020 at 6:33 PM, capt den said:

just a flat washer. use it again

Can't find what I did with the old ones for some reason

[TodFitch]

On 10/24/2020 at 6:33 PM, capt den said:

just a flat washer. use it again

It is not just a washer: It is a “spindle washer” with a tang on it that fits into the slot on the spindle so that it will not rotate.

 

1928 through 1949 used Chrysler part number 50652 on the rear axle. I have a cross on that to a Dorman 618-005 with a note to myself saying “May not be an exact fit and need some filing on the tab portion.” Looking at the Dorman site, it seems adding a ".1" suffix to that part gets you the bagged version rather than a box of them.

 

I don't know if your '53 uses that part or not but it seems likely as Chrysler didn't bother to change it for the twenty years before your car.

 

Front axle for 1933-48 uses a different spindle washer than the rear and my cross reference seems to be missing from the Dorman site so that may be obsolete.

[RobertKB]

4 hours ago, TodFitch said:

It is not just a washer: It is a “spindle washer” with a tang on it that fits into the slot on the spindle so that it will not rotate.

I agree. A specialty washer. Better start looking for yours again or put a wanted ad in the classifieds. 

[pflaming]

Seems the tab would make it spin/ rotate with the axle. 
 

[Sniper]

5 hours ago, pflaming said:

Seems the tab would make it spin/ rotate with the axle. 
 

 

It does, but it does not rotate in relation to the axle.  It's holding the hub to the axle shaft, both of which also rotate together.

[pflaming]

12 hours ago, Sniper said:

t does, but it does not rotate in relation to the axle.  It's holding the hub to the axle shaft, both of which also rotate together.

I do not understand the above comment. The tab locks in the washer to the axle thus rotates with it. I always thought the tab was to keep the washer rotating with the drum and the axle so it could not looses nor tighten the castle nut. 

[wagoneer]

On 4/8/2021 at 9:45 PM, TodFitch said:

It is not just a washer: It is a “spindle washer” with a tang on it that fits into the slot on the spindle so that it will not rotate.

 

1928 through 1949 used Chrysler part number 50652 on the rear axle. I have a cross on that to a Dorman 618-005 with a note to myself saying “May not be an exact fit and need some filing on the tab portion.” Looking at the Dorman site, it seems adding a ".1" suffix to that part gets you the bagged version rather than a box of them.

 

I don't know if your '53 uses that part or not but it seems likely as Chrysler didn't bother to change it for the twenty years before your car.

 

Front axle for 1933-48 uses a different spindle washer than the rear and my cross reference seems to be missing from the Dorman site so that may be obsolete.

AMS NOS has 50652 in stock according to their website part search.

 

https://www.amsnos.com/PS.aspx

[Sniper]

19 hours ago, pflaming said:

I do not understand the above comment. The tab locks in the washer to the axle thus rotates with it. I always thought the tab was to keep the washer rotating with the drum and the axle so it could not looses nor tighten the castle nut. 

 

You essentially said the same thing I did.  The drum is swaged to the hub, the hub is bolted to the axle shaft with a nut and that washer.  Since the hub and the axle rotate together the washer should not be under any rotational force at all anyway.  Not 100% sure why the engineers thought they needed that special axle since it's the cotter pin that prevents any potential loosening of the axle shaft nut. 

 

Now if we were talking about the front axle stub that does not rotate, then yes I can see the need for that washer as the rotational difference between the stationary stub and the rotating hub might shear the cotter pin.

 

 

[pflaming]

I’m no authority, but the proper way to tighten the castle not is to torque it, then back off to the nearest hole and insert the cotter key. Thus the washer now is not tight, and with the tab, the washer, drum, axle washer all rotate as one. We’re the washer without the tab it could free spin and work against the nut or drum to change the tightness, could even work the nut off, should the cotter key remove.  
    Some one with engineering expertise could explain the washer, et al. 

[Merle Coggins]

11 hours ago, pflaming said:

I’m no authority, but the proper way to tighten the castle not is to torque it, then back off to the nearest hole and insert the cotter key. Thus the washer now is not tight, and with the tab, the washer, drum, axle washer all rotate as one. We’re the washer without the tab it could free spin and work against the nut or drum to change the tightness, could even work the nut off, should the cotter key remove.  
    Some one with engineering expertise could explain the washer, et al. 

 

That would be for a front wheel bearing nut. The OP asked about the rear

[TodFitch]

11 hours ago, pflaming said:

I’m no authority, but the proper way to tighten the castle not is to torque it, then back off to the nearest hole and insert the cotter key. Thus the washer now is not tight, and with the tab, the washer, drum, axle washer all rotate as one. We’re the washer without the tab it could free spin and work against the nut or drum to change the tightness, could even work the nut off, should the cotter key remove.  
    Some one with engineering expertise could explain the washer, et al. 

The question was, I think, about the rear hub bolt. You do not back that one off to the nearest hole: You go to the next one which is why the torque specification on it is for a minimum of 142 ft-lbs.

[bamfordsgarage]

The 1940-1947 parts book shows a standard, not-tanged, washer on the rear axles — part #50652 as TodFitch noted above. 
 

The way I see it, no tang is required as there is zero chance of relative movement if the nut is firmly torqued tight (factory spec is 142 ft-lb minimum) and cotter-pinned. 

Mind you, most of my rear axle experience is with Model T Fords, not this modern stuff...

 

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

and you wonder why some repairs do not last or work to begin with....sometimes one may need to confiscate tools....lock garage doors and maybe even break a hand or two.?

Edited April 12, 2021 by Plymouthy Adams

[pflaming]

     I reluctantly post these days, but this interested me because I’m torquing the rear axles on my suburban, just now. 
I have really slowed down, at age 82 my mobility has become very limited, but generally feel ok! The 53 suburban and the Empi Sportster are nearly completed. 
     It has been a great hobby for the past 10+ years.  It’s been quite a learning experience, classical literature not so demanding. I would love to take my truck and spend 60 days on the road visiting many of you. Thanks for the advice and the memories!

 

paul flaming