Advice On Welsh Plug In Block

[keithb7]

My wife and I enjoyed another trip in my ‘38 today. 135 miles. An event free awesome tour. I pop the hood regularly to inspect and look for signs of trouble. 
 

Today I noticed a welsh plug in the block is weeping a little. Not much. I suspect I might have lost a tablespoon, maybe of water during the trip.  Today was my second longer-ish trip in 2 weeks. Some of the residue seen is likely also remnants of the earlier trip too. 
 

I’ve not replaced a block plug before.  I assume draining the block, hammer and a punch would remove it? New plug gets a coating of some type of sealant before installation? What sealant?

 

My wife and I are headed off for a week of camping in our RV. When we get home I was planning a trip to visit my brother in my ‘38. Its about 225 miles one way.  I won’t have time to fix this before I go.  Is this a concern? I’m hoping not. It’ll likely weep, might stop even? Doubtful the plug would blow out and all coolant eject. Or am I high risk for a blown plug, hours from home?

 

I’ve little experience with these. Thanks. 

 

 

 

[keithb7]

I just noticed this tool! Lol.  Generator mounting bracket snapped. 
 

A friend with a welder is a friend indeed. 
 

Keith

[JBNeal]

I've had success by drilling a pilot hole in the center of a plug, driving in a sheet metal screw, and using a claw hammer to pry out the plug, with a 1/4" steel flat to spread the fulcrum load...stick a magnet in the water jacket to collect any shavings, then back flush with a garden hose...

 

additional information - freeze plug installation 

[Los_Control]

I cheat and use a self tapping sheet metal screw with a cordless drill/screw gun, then use my pry bar to pull them.

I also had my water pump off at the time, was able to clear the water distribution tube and flush all the gunk out of the block .... I had major cooling issues and probably why my truck was parked in the first place. All good now.

 

Don't be a Los  

Before installing the new plugs, clean up the seating surface with a wire wheel and maybe some sealer of your choice.

You look at your old plugs and they are concave, so I installed the new the same way.

Real way is with the bubble out, then when you install them, get them started, then smack em with a hammer, and the bubble becomes concave and they expand for a tight seal.

 

Mine leaked a little while then seem to have stopped, I may have to replace them so can sleep at night 

[greg g]

Put one of these in 15 years ago as a temporary repair.  Still there. Does it qualify as permanent yet?  Easier than trying to swing a hammer to seat a new one.  Carry a couple in my travel bag.

[RobertKB]

1 hour ago, greg g said:

Put one of these in 15 years ago as a temporary repair.  Still there. Does it qualify as permanent yet?  Easier than trying to swing a hammer to seat a new one.  Carry a couple in my travel bag.

Excellent idea. I see from the likes that Keith has seen this and if he can get one, it will ease his mind while going to see his bro. Use it as backup just in case. This forum provides great support!

[Loren]

There is also an all brass version which can be permanent.

Sometimes you just can't get to a core plug without pulling the engine so there has to be a fix.

 

[Andydodge]

I always have replaced any welsh plugs with brass ones, never have to do it again................andyd

[Sniper]

My thoughts on welsh plugs, if one is leaking the others can't be far behind.  Fix the leaky one and the next weakest one will fail and so on.  Learned that lesson on a 70 Caprice Classic, a big ol POS if I ever owned one.

[John Reddie]

14 hours ago, greg g said:

Put one of these in 15 years ago as a temporary repair.  Still there. Does it qualify as permanent yet?  Easier than trying to swing a hammer to seat a new one.  Carry a couple in my travel bag.

I have found this type of plug to work fine, especially on non-pressured cooling systems and are available at many parts stores. . The key is to clean the hole opening thoroughly for a good seal. As Sniper said, others may by weak as well so you probably should inspect them for leaking as well. Good luck.

John R

[greg g]

Mine popped out about 100 miles on the rebuilt engine. Knew 

I couldn't with a hammer,  in it went.  The rest that 

I can see look fine at 46k miles on. 

[Loren]

Here's an example of a brass emergency core plug.

It's a Dorman product so it has wide availability.

 

[Tooljunkie]

The core hole is smaller where it shoulders into block,can’t remember what size i used when i stuck in the temporary plug. A year ago. I just put in a replacement steel plug. Not the easiest task, i had a heck of a time beating it to seat in block. 

[rallyace]

I had one that was leaking bad and I could not swing a hammer to set the new one. I cleaned up the hole, and coated the sealing surfaces liberally with aircraft shellac gasket sealer.  I rounded off the end of one of my old air chisel bits and used two quick blasts with the air chisel to set the plug. Worked like a charm.

[captden29]

dorman plug that loren mentioned is part number 568-010,  1 5/8 dia. I have them on my engine for about 5 years, no leaks.    capt den

[Sniper]

568-010 is for a box of 5. 

02483 is for one.

 

RockAuto has both.