Definite NEWBIE!

[Sniper]

The D24 is a Dodge engine, 230 cubic inches.  This is the 23" flat 6, your Windsor should have come with a 251 flat 6, 25" long.  102 vs 114 hp. 

 

https://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/reference/reference_information.html/

[RobertKB]

Great car with wonderful potential. If the engine is at all iffy, I would look for a 25" engine that the car would have had originally. Lots of engines out there. That bit of extra horsepower makes a big difference. You would also get the radiator back to where it should be.

 

I assume you are aware that the transmission in that car is not like a normal tranny and does not need shifting once in gear. There is a low and high range and you use the clutch to select which range. Most of the time, the high range is all that's needed. You can then let the clutch out with your foot on the brake and it will shift like an automatic within that range. You can stop the car and not depress the clutch. Lots of information on this forum regarding that type of transmission.

[hi_volt]

That is one beautiful car!  The paint on it looks really good, as does the interior.  Love the color.

[LrudyD]

7 hours ago, RobertKB said:

Great car with wonderful potential. If the engine is at all iffy, I would look for a 25" engine that the car would have had originally. Lots of engines out there. That bit of extra horsepower makes a big difference. You would also get the radiator back to where it should be.

 

I assume you are aware that the transmission in that car is not like a normal tranny and does not need shifting once in gear. There is a low and high range and you use the clutch to select which range. Most of the time, the high range is all that's needed. You can then let the clutch out with your foot on the brake and it will shift like an automatic within that range. You can stop the car and not depress the clutch. Lots of information on this forum regarding that type of transmission.

I agree, if the engine is iffie to go for the original! Thanks for your advice.

 

Also, yes I was aware of the fluid drive, but had no idea how to operate it, so thanks for the instruction!

Edited August 30, 2020 by LrudyD
Mispell

[Dodgeb4ya]

If you lived close by I'd give you a good core engine right out of a 48 Windsor.

I'm in Seattle area. Too bad.

[LrudyD]

7 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

If you lived close by I'd give you a good core engine right out of a 48 Windsor.

I'm in Seattle area. Too bad.

I’ve got family in Seattle, go there often! Always wanted to do a road trip - May be worth it now!

[Tim Larson]

Awesome car! Will be fun to see how things progress for you. This forum is a GREAT resource and you'll probably find you spend more time on here than you should - haha!

 

Welcome!

[Hghspd50]

Great looking ride take your time keep doing your research fun to learn new things about our cars. The paint job looks superb what color is it and is there metal flake?  Have fun and enjoy the ride. 

[LrudyD]

On 9/1/2020 at 9:52 AM, Hghspd50 said:

Great looking ride take your time keep doing your research fun to learn new things about our cars. The paint job looks superb what color is it and is there metal flake?  Have fun and enjoy the ride. 

Honestly, as a newbie here I’m not sure what specific color this is.  The po said that he repainted it the original color - wish I new what it was!  There is no metal flake in it.

[LrudyD]

So, I’ve got my car on blocks and have emptied the gas tank. Looks like everything is leaking - gas tank has a small leak, differential is leaking, trans is leaking.  Not a problem, I figure I’ll be pulling the engine anyway.

 

Is it cheaper to clean, coat and repair the gas tank or just get a new one? I’ve seen some on EBay for under $300.00, seems reasonable.  Also, to remove the tank, Will I need to rip the trunk carpet to get to the bolts? Or, does it come off from underneath, I just couldn’t see how to do it from under.  I’ll apologize ahead of time, since you’ve all probably heard this a billion times! ?

[LazyK]

should be two bolts accessible from inside the truck

[LrudyD]

On 9/3/2020 at 2:56 PM, LazyK said:

should be two bolts accessible from inside the truck

My trunk carpet is completely adhered. So, my only option is to rip it out? That would be a bummer because it’s in really good shape! ?

[LrudyD]

Since I have a leak in my gas tank, my options are to repair, clean out and line verses buying a new one.  I can get a new one online for under $300.00.  Can you veterans give me options? Get a new one or get it repaired? Prices for each?

[JBNeal]

How'bout just cutting a 3" line in the carpet to get a wrench on the bolts, then glue it back when you're done...?

[RobertKB]

You have to be careful with those bolts. If rusty you can twist and destroy the straps. 

[knuckleharley]

I don't know how much the guy owed you,but SCORE!!!!!!

 

That freaking thing is beautiful!

 

Ok,first of all,do NOT try to start it from the gas tank. Take the gas tank out of the car,drain it,flush it,and let it drip dry propped us so all the moisture runs out.

 

Remove the sending unit,and use a dentists mirror and light,or anything else you can use,to inspect the gas tank for rust inside. Especially the top. If it has rust inside,toss it in the scrap pile and spend a couple of hundred bucks for new one. Plastic,if you can find one,galvanized steel if you can't.

 

Meanwhile,now that the tank is out,you can try to start it with a hose running from the fuel pump to the portable tank you are using. You are doing this to avoid sucking rust into your fuel pump and carb.

 

Once you get the engine running take careful note of how is sounds,if it smokes,and how much oil pressure it holds. You need to know this in order to know if you should spend the bucks on stuff like a carb kit and a new fuel pump. And you will. Just because neither is leaking today,doesn't mean they won't be leaking next week.

If everything seem fine,go ahead and change the oil,tune it,and start driving it after installing the new gas line and hoses,and rebuilding the carb and replacing the fuel pump.

 

Go ahead and start looking around for a new water pump,because you will probably be needing one after driving it for a week or so.

 

The next move I would make would be putting a "Wanted to buy" add all over the known universe for a straight 8 Chrysler flathead to replace the 230 Dodge engine.

 

There is a world of difference between having that car with a 230 Dodge,or a straight 8 Chysler. Seriously.

 

[knuckleharley]

On 9/3/2020 at 4:52 PM, LrudyD said:

So, I’ve got my car on blocks and have emptied the gas tank. Looks like everything is leaking - gas tank has a small leak, differential is leaking, trans is leaking.  Not a problem, I figure I’ll be pulling the engine anyway.

 

Is it cheaper to clean, coat and repair the gas tank or just get a new one? I’ve seen some on EBay for under $300.00, seems reasonable.  Also, to remove the tank, Will I need to rip the trunk carpet to get to the bolts? Or, does it come off from underneath, I just couldn’t see how to do it from under.  I’ll apologize ahead of time, since you’ve all probably heard this a billion times! ?

 

Don't even waste your time trying to drain or clean it if it is already leaking. Just throw it away and buy a new one. Do NOT throw away the sending unit,though.

[LrudyD]

13 hours ago, knuckleharley said:

 

Don't even waste your time trying to drain or clean it if it is already leaking. Just throw it away and buy a new one. Do NOT throw away the sending unit,though.

Since the tank is a throw away, at $40 should I just get a new sending unit as well?

[DJ194950]

Are any of the replacement tanks (new) that have the original lock ring type of fuel level sender hole setup?

 

All I remember seeing have the newer style 6 hole flat face for screw down sender attachment. Senders with the correct resistance range are available but most likely do not work with the pre - '49 gauges or will they?  Others experiences.?

 

I have seen on EBay that Moparpro sells stock type lock ring setups for 1950 but the earlier ones he is selling are the 6 screw down type.

 

I do not have the early only the 49-50 and up cars and gauges.

[knuckleharley]

6 hours ago, LrudyD said:

Since the tank is a throw away, at $40 should I just get a new sending unit as well?

 Does your old one work? If it does,check with whoever you  buy the new tank from to verify your original sending unit will work with it. If it won't,check the price of the sending unit from whoever you buy the tank from with sending units from other sources.

 

If the money figure is fairly close,I would tend to buy the new sending unit from the same people I buy the tank from. You know it will fit the tank that way.

[LrudyD]

So I finally had the time to take the gas tank out - my new one arrived Friday!  A couple things I encountered:

1. As was suggested, I cut the carpet in the trunk to get to the bolts; found the one on the passenger side, nothing on the drivers side. Looking from underneath, the bolt was under, not on top! I’ll put some pics up.
2. Once I got the bolts off, the tank came down easily, but the wires from the sending unit were severed! There didn’t seem to be any way to disconnect these before taking the tank down - I halfway expected some length on the wires, but there was none.  The sending unit looks good, cleaning it up, and it will bolt right into the new tank.

Question: what to do about the wiring on the sending unit? Can I splice extra line into it? I did notice a round hole from underneath that I suppose I could cut out from the trunk and reach the connection from there - not sure though!

[Sam Buchanan]

The round hole you see above the sender is for an access cover that can be removed from within the trunk, it is secured by small screws. It appears the cover is missing in your car and has been covered by the carpet. The access hole allows you to reconnect the sender wiring after you install the tank. Might as well go ahead and cut the carpet so you can access the hole. You can make a new cover for it our of thin sheet steel or aluminum.

[Dartgame]

Check and see if the area where the nut that was under the trunk on the left side for the tank has a hole above it thru the trunk floor. It should use a similar shoulder nut like the other one that went in from the trunk floor. Most mopars of this era use the same type nut, they can be found. Maybe the left one was a retrofit for a missing piece of hardware. What you are referring to as fireproofing should be thick tar paper felt material, a cushioning material for the tank against the trunk floor and or frame members. The stuff in your picture looks like asphalt shingles ?

 

By the way beauty of a car - and I have a 73 dart sport 340....

 

Not sure what the ferrule is for...maybe the fuel line connection ?

Edited September 13, 2020 by Dartgame

[DJ194950]

Edited September 13, 2020 by DJ194950

[LrudyD]

That felt does look like 90# roof felt with granules in it! I was definitely surprised to see this! I’m thinking of taking it all off and coating the area.

 

A while later: So, took the felt off and it was definitely 90# roofing felt! Someone must have repaired the trunk at one time, from the top! A large area was cut out of the original trunk and what looks like a metal sign was installed, then coated with some type of tar stuff, then the carpet was glued down to everything - most likely to hide this crap job! From under I measured the location of the hole where you can connect the fuel sending unit, went to the top, cut the carpet and ripped out the rusted out cap and now I have access!  I also used an awl sent through the strap bolt into the trunk bottom to locate where the hole is supposed to be, so I’ll go to the top again and drill out a 1” hole to pull the bolt up and re-seat it on a better piece of metal!

 

Here’s some pics: