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About hi_volt

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Tucson, AZ
  • My Project Cars
    1947 Plymouth P-15 Special Deluxe Business Coupe

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Lived in Tucson since 1988
  • Occupation
    Electronic Engineer


  • Location
    Tucson, AZ
  • Interests
    Vintage cars, antique radios, antique TV sets

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  1. If it's a running, driving car with a clean title, and it looks good in person, I'd seriously consider it for that money. It looks pretty good from the photo. The fact that it has suicide doors is a definite plus from a value standpoint. I personally don't think too much about resale value, though you don't want to seriously overspend when purchasing. I'm in it for the enjoyment having a classic car brings. 7K is not really a lot of money any way you look at it. If you like it, go for it.
  2. I went to the Westach site and found a couple of possible part numbers, but I'm not sure what the difference is between a couple of them. Also not sure if I should be looking at a 3500RPM tach or a 5000RPM tach. The first one is easy: 2CT33-6V is a 2-inch single tach, 3500RPM, pos or neg 6V. There is a photo so it's easy to see what it is. The next two part numbers are not quite a clear, as there are no photos of either one: 3CT-53-6V is a 3-inch tach, 5000RPM, pos or neg 6V. No photo. 3CT-53-2-6V is also a 3-inch tach, 5000RPM, pos or neg 6V. No photo either. Is this a dual version of the 3CT-53-6V, or is it just programmable for 3cyl and 6cyl engines? Any guidance would be appreciated. ☺️
  3. A lot of the old car clocks have springs that are wound up automatically by a small solenoid that kicks in 6V momentarily when the spring has run down and rewinds the spring. There is sometimes a fusible link that goes open circuit and causes the clock to stop running, and sometimes the solenoid contact just gets oxidized with age. I'd look at those things before considering a replacement movement.
  4. Missing drive train but otherwise looks complete. I don't see this body style very often. https://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/d/tucson-1951-plymouth-concord-deluxe/7015941576.html
  5. That's pretty neat. I think that's the first Motorola one I've seen. Most of them are Philco Model 802's
  6. Looks like the 3 window Dodge coupe got sold. I figured that at some point someone would jump on that one. Hope the buyer finds this site......
  7. Nice looking car! Congratulations.
  8. And here's yet another one. A '48 Dodge Sedan. https://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/d/catalina-1948-dodge-custom-4-door-sedan/6984285911.html
  9. My first Mopar was a '48 Plymouth Special Deluxe 4-door sedan that I purchased in 1987 in San Luis Obispo, California. I paid $1500 and drove it home. I kept it for several years and eventually sold it when I moved to Tucson. I currently have a '47 Plymouth Business Coupe that I'm in the process of getting into "driver" condition. Classic Fords and Chevys are all nice and everything, but it seems like everyone has one. In my opinion, the Mopars are much more interesting and I'm really partial to the 46-48 body styles.
  10. If you change away from the stock wiring harness, I recommend drawing up a new wiring diagram that reflects any changes that you made. It will make your life easier when you install the new harnessing, and down the road. Also, any future owner will appreciate the fact that it was documented if you eventually sell it. I plan to do that with my '47 Business Coupe, and have already drawn up a diagram in Microsoft Visio. I've posted a screen shot in my restoration thread.
  11. I just noticed that it also has an alternator. Probably converted to 12V at some point in its life.
  12. The place has been raining '40s Mopars lately. This one is mostly complete but is a little rough. https://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/d/tucson-1947-dodge-2-door-business-coupe/6980756781.html
  13. After 3 weeks of intense yard work that's taken up most of my time, I finally got to work on my '47 today. I've been purchasing numerous goodies for it over the past few weeks, including new plug wires, ignition coil, distributor cap, a pair of windows for the doors, a window channel to replace the broken on on the passenger side, plus a few more other items. I'm still in the process of cleaning and maintenance, mostly in the engine bay, but I did get a chance to rig up a temporary set of seat covers with some cheap material I got at the thrift store for $2 (....and no, I'm not going to do a Highlander interior long term πŸ˜‰ ). Today I painted the left side of the engine silver, installed the cleaned and painted plug wire tubes and coil clamp, a new coil, and started to install the plug wires, which I'll finish up tomorrow. A couple of weeks ago I, fixed the rust in the battery tray and painted it. I thought a lot about what to do about the wiring, which is super crispy and brittle, and came up with a plan for re-wiring. I'm pretty good with Microsoft Visio, so I drew up a new wiring diagram for my car (based on the original wiring diagram that I downloaded from here) which will remain mostly stock, but will add fuse blocks under the dash for safety and protection of the wiring. I've posted a screen shot below.
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