D34 stock Flathead fouling plugs

[Noah H]

Hello all hope you all had a great fourth,

 

Figured I have the day off I will work on the car, I am having some issues with the plugs fouling and it running rich. The points have been adjusted to .20 the coil has been changed to an NAPA Echlin without external resistor new plug wires and plugs. The carb has been cleaned and rebuilt. (Including accelerated pump) And I am still fouling the Autolite 295s after a 100 mile trip with new plugs there also is hesitation mid throttle range but when you accelerate to higher speed it seems to quit. It is a bone stock 6v system and a bone stock carb and manifolds. The fuel pump was replaced as well. the previous owner said he reamed the idle jet to see if it would help with no luck. Then was parked. Has me quite stumped. And need some assistance. 
 

carb is BXVD-3 Stromberg

thanks for all the help

Noah

[40Club]

Have You Tried Autolite 308 plugs might help

 

[Noah H]

I have not this is what the 295s look like 

[Tooljunkie]

Gasket is missing. Plug looks old. 
a hotter heat range, more timing. 

[Noah H]

Had the washer in my hand at the time as well as water sits in the divits on the holes and makes them rust if I don’t soak up the water with a rag. When you say more timing are you meaning advance or retard? 
 

[Sniper]

Advanced is more timing, retarded is less timing.

 

Autolite 308's are one step hotter than stock resistor plugs. 

 

If he reamed out the idle tube odds are he made it worse.

 

Check the float settings, a misadjusted float can cause it to run rich.  make sure the float isn't leaking that will cause the float to sink and make it run rich.

[Noah H]

6 minutes ago, Sniper said:

 

If he reamed out the idle tube odds are he made it worse.

That’s what I was afraid of, do you think the carb is toast? Or my fouling issue can still be resolved with the jet being reamed?

[Tom Skinner]

Once Points and Timing are set how about using a Vacumn Gauge to set the carb to the highest setting?

Then determine what if any is the problem. 

[Sniper]

I would check the basics first, as mentioned the ignition, the float setting and if the float is leaky.  Verify you don;t have any other issues first.

[Noah H]

Perfect, float was a little high so I adjusted it to the spec the manual said 1/8 from the top of the float to the top of the casting with no help. Going to try the hotter plugs tomorrow but when I cleaned the old fouled ones and installed them back again, there was no change.

[plymouthcranbrook]

I second using a vacuum gauge to set the basics. You might try to mist a little carb cleaner or the like around the base of the cab and intake manifold to be sure there isn't a vac leak. A small one can be overcome by strong acceleration.  That was one of the issues I had with mine was stumbling on acceleration. I believe mine was worn shafts and dirt in the carb something you have already checked.  About the only thing I have ever done to an Idle jet was to remove the screw and spray Carb cleaner into the hole.  On the car.

[greg g]

Not familiar with solex carbs, but most carburetors have a step up or power valve circuit. These are what provides extra fuel for acceleration and climbing hills after the initial squirt from the accelerator pump. The default setting for these is to be open via spring tension. At idle and cruise, a vacuum path through the carb provides intake manifold vacuum to pull the valve closed during high vacuum operation.  With the Carter there is a slot in the carb to manifold gasket that aligns with a hole in the carb base to provide the vacuum to the valve.  If the path is blocked, the spring holds the valve open constantly which provides a too rich mixture across all operating conditions except wide open throttle.  If the gasket was installed so the slot doesn't line up, no vacuum equals too much fuel.  The other issue could be an inoperative vacuum advance. To much fuel and improperly times spark makes for inefficient and incomplete combustion which results in fouled plugs.

[kencombs]

9 hours ago, greg g said:

Not familiar with solex carbs, but most carburetors have a step up or power valve circuit. These are what provides extra fuel for acceleration and climbing hills after the initial squirt from the accelerator pump. The default setting for these is to be open via spring tension. At idle and cruise, a vacuum path through the carb provides intake manifold vacuum to pull the valve closed during high vacuum operation.  With the Carter there is a slot in the carb to manifold gasket that aligns with a hole in the carb base to provide the vacuum to the valve.  If the path is blocked, the spring holds the valve open constantly which provides a too rich mixture across all operating conditions except wide open throttle.  If the gasket was installed so the slot doesn't line up, no vacuum equals too much fuel.  The other issue could be an inoperative vacuum advance. To much fuel and improperly times spark makes for inefficient and incomplete combustion which results in fouled plugs.

Excellent suggestion!  I found this link to a good illustration of his carb

https://www.carburetor-parts.com/BXVD-Exploded-View_ep_440.html

:Note that the base gasket does have the slots for the vacuum mentioned.  OP, check for the presence of such slots.

 

Also, it would be a good idea to take a look at the Power valve and Power Piston to be sure they are in working condition.

 

Edited July 6, 2020 by kencombs

[Noah H]

Thanks I am timing my engine and used a timing light and the marks are not lining up it seems it wants to too much retard. Idling about 500 rpm I retard the distributer all the way and it still is 10-13 degrees off dead on. Am I doing this wrong? 

[Noah H]

To add to that, when I increase engine rpm the mark slowly moves to make the marks line up. This is my first time timing the engine so bare with me

 

Edited July 6, 2020 by Noah H

[Sam Buchanan]

2 hours ago, Noah H said:

To add to that, when I increase engine rpm the mark slowly moves to make the marks line up. This is my first time timing the engine so bare with me

 

 

I'm not sure which marks you are trying to "lineup" but you want to see about 4 degrees before top dead center hit the indicator after you rev up the engine. In other words, as you lean over the left fender, as you rev the engine timing should advance to the 4 degree mark the farthest away from you. (CORRECTION: Should have said "4 degree mark closest to you".) Another way to verify this is the timing should be at about zero when the engine is idling. These settings may not be the absolute optimum for your engine but will get you very close and yield a nicely running engine.

 

I sounds like your engine timing is very much retarded now, but the good news is the timing advance system is working since the timing advances as you increase rpm. If your engine timing is indeed retarded now.....be prepared for a pleasant surprise on your first drive after you get the timing correct. 

 

One other thing.....your plugs are not fouled, they are just sooty....most likely from running a too rich mixture (or timing so retarded incomplete combustion occurs?). Fouled plugs won't fire.

Edited July 6, 2020 by Sam Buchanan
Corrected timing info

[Noah H]

28 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

I'm not sure which marks you are trying to "lineup" but you want to see about 4 degrees before top dead center hit the indicator after you rev up the engine. In other words, as you lean over the left fender, as you rev the engine timing should advance to the 4 degree mark the farthest away from you. Another way to verify this is the timing should be at about zero when the engine is idling. These settings may not be the absolute optimum for your engine but will get you very close and yield a nicely running engine.

 

I sounds like your engine timing is very much retarded now, but the good news is the timing advance system is working since the timing advances as you increase rpm. If your engine timing is indeed retarded now.....be prepared for a pleasant surprise on your first drive after you get the timing correct. 

 

One other thing.....your plugs are not fouled, they are just sooty....most likely from running a too rich mixture (or timing so retarded incomplete combustion occurs?). Fouled plugs won't fire.

Thanks Sam, 

 

while the engine is idling the marks  are as pictured keep in mind that the distributer is fully retarded. If he reamed the idle tube is the  Carburetor toast? Thanks 

Edited July 6, 2020 by Noah H

[greg g]

Feel on the underside of the distributer.  Some models have a slot here to allow further adjustment.  It is clamped in place by a single bolt into a tapped hole.  If you have a mechanics mirror take a look, or crawl under and check it out.

[Sam Buchanan]

1 hour ago, Noah H said:

Thanks Sam, 

 

while the engine is idling the marks  are as pictured keep in mind that the distributer is fully retarded. If he reamed the idle tube is the  Carburetor toast? Thanks 

 

 

 

Ok....I gave you some bad information in my original post, got backwards the direction the marks will move as the engine is revved. Thanks for prompting me to go out to the garage, hook up the timing light and check this on my car. (I'm almost to the point where I can hide my own Easter eggs....)

 

As the engine is revved, the timing will appear to move TOWARDS you. In your photo of your engine idling, the marker should be at 0. Your engine is timed eight degrees too retarded which will really kill the responsiveness of the engine. As you rev the engine, the marker should move from zero toward the numbers at the bottom of the photo (I'm assuming the photo was taken from the left side of the car). Advance the timing to bring it to zero as the engine is idling, then as you advance the throttle see if it moves 'down' to about 4-5 degrees. If so......you are good to go. If it needs slight tweaking, do so to achieve about 4 degrees with maximum advance....then drive the car for a road test.

 

These low-compression engines are pretty tolerant of ignition advance, some folks run more (my engine is running 8-9 degrees according to the numbers on the balancer) but the numbers I suggested should give you a very drivable engine. There is an outside chance the harmonic balancer on your engine is faulty and the number scale has slipped but let's assume for now that is not the case.

Edited July 6, 2020 by Sam Buchanan

[Noah H]

3 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

 

Ok....I gave you some bad information, got backwards the direction the marks will move as the engine is revved. Thanks for prompting me to go out to the garage, hook up the timing light and check this on my car.

 

As the engine is revved, the timing will appear to move TOWARDS you. In your photo of your engine idling, the marker should be about zero. Your engine is timed eight degrees too retarded which will really kill the responsiveness of the engine. As you rev the engine, the marker should move from zero toward the numbers at the bottom of the photo (I'm assuming the photo was taken from the left side of the car). Advance the timing to bring it to zero as the engine is idling, then as you advance the throttle see if it moves 'down' to about 4-5 degrees. If so......you are good to go.

 

when I advance the timing while idling the marks get farther apart. I am on the left side of the car. And when I turn the distributer to the right the black mark moves closer to me. When I retard it they get closer together (to 0) but the distributer stops before I can get them to line up. Sorry to sound so amature this is a learning lesson for me. 

[Sam Buchanan]

12 minutes ago, Noah H said:

 

when I advance the timing while idling the marks get farther apart. I am on the left side of the car. And when I turn the distributer to the right the black mark moves closer to me. When I retard it they get closer together (to 0) but the distributer stops before I can get them to line up. Sorry to sound so amature this is a learning lesson for me. 

 

" the marks get farther apart"

 

Which marks are you referring to? Are you referring to the pointer as one of the marks? I think we are dancing around semantics..... 

 

Turn the distributor whichever way is necessary to get the pointer to line up with the black mark at 0 when the engine is idling.

 

Then tell us how close to 0 you were able to get if you can't get it all the way to 0 (another photo would be great...be careful around the fan!). As was mentioned in a previous post there is another adjustment bolt on the bottom of the distributor. But I suspect the ignition points gap is out of spec if you can't rotate the distributor enough to achieve 0 timing at idle.

 

Let's get the timing correct and worry about the carb later. 

Edited July 6, 2020 by Sam Buchanan

[Noah H]

The red marks indicate the distributer fully retarded, engine idling, the blue mark is where the 0 mark moves when I start to advance the timing. Points are set to .20. Once again sorry for the confusion. 

[Sam Buchanan]

Forget about "advancing" or "retarding" the distributor. Just move the distributor whatever direction it takes to get the pointer as close as possible to 0 when the engine is idling....we don't really care which way you turn it, just get the pointer and 0 degrees to line up when idling. If they won't line up then get them as close as possible then reply with what number is under the pointer and whether 0 is above or below the pointer in your photo.

 

Hang in there...you'll get it figured out. 

Edited July 6, 2020 by Sam Buchanan

[Sniper]

42 minutes ago, Noah H said:

The red marks indicate the distributer fully retarded, engine idling, the blue mark is where the 0 mark moves when I start to advance the timing. Points are set to .20. Once again sorry for the confusion. 

 

 

Got a question, is the blue mark 10 degrees advanced?  I was under the impression  it's 10 degrees retarded?  Someone clear it up for me, please.

[desoto1939]

Yes get you engine idliong to as close to as possible to Top Dead Center, Your Blue Line in your picture.  So put white chalk mark on this line so that when your timing light comes on you can see if the white mark is at TDC or if it is before or after the mark on the vibration dampener.

Sometime these engine run better retarded and or advanced because of engine wear over the years.  Ge the engine to idle smoothly at first.  Then you can try to see how the engine sounds when reving the engine.  Remember you are working with an engine that is about 70 years old unless it was rebuild at some point but you would still have some play.

 

Also check that the breaker plate is not loose in the distrbuter it could be worn out and is  floating or moving in the assembly. If this is the pbm then get a NOS breaker plate assembly.

 

I would need to know the distributor model number to tell you the correct breaker plate assembly so the dizzy is either kw