Noah H

What benefit would I gain polishing up the journal and throwing in .002 bearings? Common sense says to replace all bearings, even if the rest are within spec? I have yet to find my mic. But if I have slight taper would the .002 bearings wear prematurely?

are these the bearings I would use if my crank is slightly worn?

Very helpful thanks sniper..

Took a look at my bearings. No 2 is worn very badly .04 all the others read .0015 on the plastiguage I’ve heard 2 and 5 go bad the fastest due to an oiling design. So they were the first ones I checked. my question is, are these standard bearings? I am not seeing STD anywhere.. i cannot get a good picture but I can read what they say. #2 2568B010N #5 13- OB 60M MG Any Ideas? next step.. mic the crank.

After finding an engine for my 50 Dodge While removing my fluid coupling, I notice it looks like it has been welded.. my question is if it’s still useable. Does this ever happen with FD units? my next question is if a transmission from a 230 cu in 1951 Coronet would fit in a 230 cu in 1950 Meadowbrook. Both standard 3 speed fluid drive cars.

It is a rhythm and has gotten quite annoying tick tick tick tick————-tick tick tick tick my stethoscope is leading me astrey. Motor has been rebuilt had the valve covers off last month and some tappets seemed like they were not moving. I didn’t check for broken valve springs though. Might have to tear into it again

Listening to the exhaust there is a puff every couple seconds. Should defiantly be smoother. I can also hear the tick through the tail pipe.

It clicks no matter what rpms, I have an automotive stethoscope and there is a clicking noise coming from the fuel pump area that sounds in rhythm from what I hear without the scope, but also if I place the probe on head over the valves I hear distinctive clicking as well.

Hello gang, My 230 flatty engine clatters but it’s very intermittent. It’ll run quiet and smooth for about 15-20 minuets. Then it will start clicking pretty loudly. I’ve had the valves adjusted about 3 times. I also I am running a bottle of Lucas with 20w-50 vr1. Any ideas?

Thank you, there is no hinge movement when I try lifting the door up and down. I do not even know where to start. Inner door panels off etc. I see that the top around the window comes off with screws, but I cannot see any screws for the lower portion/kick panel.

Hello my driver side door would always jam and now it’s too the point where it will not latch shut. This may be the wrong place to put this in the forum, but how would I go about replacing the latch in the door/replacement parts. I started removing the bottom piece that’s why a screw is missing.

I drive the car regularly, do I really need to put something in there? I guess it may be a matter of opinion.

My buddy’s car had about a foot of steel wool stuffed in the draft tube. found it while I was degreasing his engine. is this a big no-no?

On my d34 230 my underneath my disturber is leaking pretty bad when running. I am going to put an o ring over the base of the shaft but there is a small hole underneath in where the distributer mounts on the block. Maybe an oil return? Not sure. will an o ring block that hole? thanks.

Hello, My Flathead has been running well during the start of the cold here. I have read up on the forum about preforming a valve adjustment and attempted to do so while the engine was running. After adjustment my motor quiet with soft ticking. .10 int. .10 exhaust. After an 800 mile journey and daily driving for months, I have noticed the ticking has became more of a chatter. I feel like the car can have more power. It idles great with steady 17 inches vacuum. This is the second time I have had the tappets adjusted to try and reduce noise. One after the rebuild and one before the road trip. I feel like I am doing it incorrectly. I know some noise is wanted, but at times it makes driving unpleasant. What can I do to help with this? thanks.

800 miles? No issues no problems for the Meadowbrook. Still points condenser 6v pos ground just like the old days. Thanks for the help. Was a great trip.

Great point, never thought of that! Clever.

Adjust the distributer to the highest vacuum? Tighten it down then good to go?

Thanks, it only occurs sometimes at idle , but when I increase rpms it goes away. Have not done a compression test. Off topic but, should I adjust my timing via a timing light or vacuum gauge?

What’s your all’s thoughts on my valves? You think they may be sticking if they only click at idle sometimes?

Will be going through western Kansas through Kansas City then through Missouri and ending up in St. Louis

Sure am excited yet anxious at the same time.

Hello, I want to drive my Meadowbrook a total of 800 miles this weekend. But need some advice on how to get it ready. I daily drive this car and trust it no doubt I preformed a valve adjustment per manual .008 intake and .010 exhaust hot. I have done many valve adjustments on these flatheads so this one was a walk in the park. when engine warms up I am idling at about 450 rpm a significant tick. As soon as I touch the gas/ higher rpms the tick goes away. I have also concluded that it happens sparingly. went back and checked all my clearances and all checked out great. Don’t want tighten any more to risk burned valves. This is my only trouble at the moment. 60 mph down the highway brings no weird noises just the purr of the engine. I have new tires, brakes, fuel pump, filter, gas lines, cap and rotor points plugs etc. thoughts on 20w-50 vr1 ? (currently in car) Educate me on what should be done. Not only with maintenance but experience. Thanks!

While I look down carb throat immediately after I shut down I see vapor with the throttle closed. My oil smells normal with no gas smell.