Assistance Needed

[rugbyjon112]

Does anyone have any experience using 7" 6-Volt Stock Style H4 Glass Lens Headlight 55/60W 6V Halogen Light Bulbs (pictured)? If so, is there any modification to the bucket required or do they fit as-is? Or can anyone tell me the correct bulb to use. I can’t seem to find a bulb number. 

[greg g]

They should fit without an issue. But standard low beams are 35 40 watt or 6 amps per bulb. So give or take 15 amps for the circuit.  55 watts is near 9 amps per bulb or 20 to 25 amps for the circuit.  The fuse on the head light switch does all the lights is 30 amp.  If you have any stray resistance any where, you would be pushing the limits of that fuse.  High beams might be over the limit.  You would probably need to add relays for these light's load.  Bulbs are 6v h4. Don't the come with bulbs included?  Not common but they are out there.  What have you done to assure that your current lights are operating as designed?  I put new 6v halogen sealed beams, cleaned the grounds and cleaned and tightened the connections on the light terminal block and have very adequate light for normal night driving.  Also have some 35 watts fog lights if needed.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I do recommend that you supply the dimmer switch with fused power via a relay energized by the light switch only to keep the higher current off the contacts.  As Greg mentioned, an resistance and you are now going to experience heat and heat generates more heat till a fuse pops or you act overheat the phenolic base that holds the contacts in the switch.   One relay only, one cut wire only.  The dimmer switch is heavy contact, self cleaning and also dime a dozen at any big box store

[Ulu]

I think that because of the high load on the light switch/fuse it was common to use a circuit breaker on many cars.

If you're continually pulling 25 amps thru a 30 amp fuse it will tend to get warm, but if there's any brief spike in current from a bulb that wiggled going over a bump, the fuse would blow, while the circuit breaker would delay and not trip.

 

Using a bigger fuse means a small short might not blow it before a small wire or some contacts burned.

 

Using a better switch and/or more fuses costs money, so the breaker was adopted.

 

Anyhow, this is my theory unless someone has a better one.

[Plymouthy Adams]

some switches had fuses..some were later fitted with breakers....both do the job of protecting the circuit....one is self resetting when temps return to what is considered normal..the other is costly fuse....as the OP did not state his arrangement...the fuse is going to be assumed especially on a 46 model.  The manual has a note that the 46-48 Plymouths did not get a breaker but a fuse....

[Ulu]

My P15 has the fuse.

My Ford coupe had the breaker.

My Volare Premier had the breaker.

My Caddy had the breaker.

But I'd say 3/4 of my cars had the fuse.

 

BTW, I have never blown a headlight fuse. Usually dome lights or brake lights.

But that Ford used to pop the breaker after driving at night for over an hour.

Driving down I-15 at night, the lights just went black. Maybe 15 seconds & they were back on.

I got hit and totalled the car, so never found the problem.

But probably in the worn switch itself. It happened at least twice.

[plymouthcranbrook]

27 minutes ago, Ulu said:

My P15 has the fuse.

My Ford coupe had the breaker.

My Volare Premier had the breaker.

My Caddy had the breaker.

But I'd say 3/4 of my cars had the fuse.

 

BTW, I have never blown a headlight fuse. Usually dome lights or brake lights.

But that Ford used to pop the breaker after driving at night for over an hour.

Driving down I-15 at night, the lights just went black. Maybe 15 seconds & they were back on.

I got hit and totalled the car, so never found the problem.

But probably in the worn switch itself. It happened at least twice.

Volare Premier? 

[Plymouthy Adams]

yep...super six engine....slant with a two barrel usually on the higher line...at least the high line I drove once as a rental out of Chicago was so equipped...

[rugbyjon112]

Greg G, I haven’t changed anything. Still completely stock. I have one that’s clearly blown and was planning to replace both. Just thought those might be a bit brighter. I’m planning to add the fog lights in the future. I’m new the the P15 world and didn’t realize the 30 amp fuse covered all of the lights. I just ordered a set of 6v H6006 bulbs.
 

Thanks for the information everyone. It was very helpful. 

[plymouthcranbrook]

11 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

yep...super six engine....slant with a two barrel usually on the higher line...at least the high line I drove once as a rental out of Chicago was so equipped...

I only asked as I have a 1980 Special 6, automatic that I bought with 8400 miles from new in 2007. So my antenna go up when someone mentions one.

[greg g]

11 hours ago, plymouthcranbrook said:

Volare Premier? 

 

2 hours ago, rugbyjon112 said:

Greg G, I haven’t changed anything. Still completely stock. I have one that’s clearly blown and was planning to replace both. Just thought those might be a bit brighter. I’m planning to add the fog lights in the future. I’m new the the P15 world and didn’t realize the 30 amp fuse covered all of the lights. I just ordered a set of 6v H6006 bulbs.
 

Thanks for the information everyone. It was very helpful. 

When you have the bulbs out of their mounts you will see the ground wire attached to the rear of the bucket. This area is exposed to moisture, dirt etc by the front tires.  It's an area that when the car was used as primary transportation was subject to splashing of water, mud and grit from the road. It in many cases was a rust prone area.  Inspect the metal that the ground wire is attached to and make sure it's a good solid ground.  Also if your car doesn't have a ground strap from the body typically the fire wall, to the bell housing, engine or frame install one. This can usually correct a lot of lighting and other electrical accessory performance.

 

 6 volt systems rely on current flow to get the job done. Less resistance, thicker wires, good connections and adequate grounds make for proper working of the circuits.

[Eneto-55]

7 hours ago, greg g said:

 

When you have the bulbs out of their mounts you will see the ground wire attached to the rear of the bucket. This area is exposed to moisture, dirt etc by the front tires.  It's an area that when the car was used as primary transportation was subject to splashing of water, mud and grit from the road. It in many cases was a rust prone area.  Inspect the metal that the ground wire is attached to and make sure it's a good solid ground.  Also if your car doesn't have a ground strap from the body typically the fire wall, to the bell housing, engine or frame install one. This can usually correct a lot of lighting and other electrical accessory performance.

 

 6 volt systems rely on current flow to get the job done. Less resistance, thicker wires, good connections and adequate grounds make for proper working of the circuits.

Since my headlight harnesses are cracked & will have to be rebuilt anyway, I am planning to run that ground wire along with the cable, at least back to the terminal block at the left of the radiator.  (I do not want to have to scratch off paint in order to get a good ground in places like that.  I can see the point of saving that bit of wire in manufacturing, but for the rebuild process, it's not that much more.)  

[Any ides of where to find thin-wall rubber tubing/hose to run those wires through back up to the terminal block would be appreciated.  I've looked in local hardware stores, and on-line, but everything is either plastic, or is heavy wall hose.  I could just wrap it all with rubber tape, but would prefer to use hose.]

[Young Ed]

I use wire loom from Macs Ford parts. 

[Plymouthy Adams]

12 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

I use wire loom from Macs Ford parts. 

Ed, is that the cloth or the plastic loom covering you referring ?  I am still a tape wrapping advocate...if any covering goes on it is only for a possible chaffing protection application and then I sometimes tape that for a cleaner look.  

[greg g]

21 hours ago, plymouthcranbrook said:

Volare Premier? 

 

11 hours ago, rugbyjon112 said:

Greg G, I haven’t changed anything. Still completely stock. I have one that’s clearly blown and was planning to replace both. Just thought those might be a bit brighter. I’m planning to add the fog lights in the future. I’m new the the P15 world and didn’t realize the 30 amp fuse covered all of the lights. I just ordered a set of 6v H6006 bulbs.
 

Thanks for the information everyone. It was very helpful. 

https://www.google.com/search?q=automotive+flexible+wire+conduit&client=tablet-android-efun&prmd=sinv&source=univ&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjloMGIibvpAhWMZs0KHT-eCEYQ1TV6BAgIEH0&biw=1280&bih=800

[Plymouthy Adams]

that plastic wrap has it uses and I have a couple small sections used where chaffing may be an issue but for the most part..just way over used as a hide all of poorly executed repairs and butchered looms during troubleshooting...   I still prefer a taped harness....they lay in place a bit better in my opinion....but then I am usually a bit different in my doing things...

Edited May 17, 2020 by Plymouthy Adams

[Young Ed]

53 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

Ed, is that the cloth or the plastic loom covering you referring ?  I am still a tape wrapping advocate...if any covering goes on it is only for a possible chaffing protection application and then I sometimes tape that for a cleaner look.  

The cloth stuff is what I've used. Mostly where it shows on things like trunk wiring or my pedestal tail lights on the truck

[Plymouthy Adams]

cloth would be a more fitting loom cover over the plastic stuff I agree.....drop me a pic of complete wiring section...would like to see that.....

[Ulu]

I don’t know about cars outside of California, but here the Plymouth Volare Premier was a luxury car with the V8, automatic, full power, A/C, stereo, fancy upholstery, & those fancy turbine wheel covers. I think mine was a 1976 but it’s been 26 years since I sold that car.

[Young Ed]

On 5/17/2020 at 9:33 AM, Plymouthy Adams said:

cloth would be a more fitting loom cover over the plastic stuff I agree.....drop me a pic of complete wiring section...would like to see that.....

 

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

thanks for posting the pic....yeah...smoother, cleaner look over the ribbed plastic that is so common and overdone in about every color of the rainbow and  chrome.

[Tooljunkie]

I am not a purist, the cloth wrap is durable and lasts way longer than the split loom. I wrap my wires with quality electrical tape whether its covered or not. 
I am also big on protecting circuits,and using realays to switch bigger loads. 

[Young Ed]

6 minutes ago, Tooljunkie said:

I am not a purist, the cloth wrap is durable and lasts way longer than the split loom. I wrap my wires with quality electrical tape whether its covered or not. 
I am also big on protecting circuits,and using realays to switch bigger loads. 

It's been a long time since I built that but I believe the wires are taped and the cloth is mostly decorative

[Sniper]

 used this when I rewired my 51

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RHM81PV/ref=dp_prsubs_2

[Tooljunkie]

1 hour ago, Sniper said:

 used this when I rewired my 51

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RHM81PV/ref=dp_prsubs_2

Looks like hockey tape. That stuff is tough! I use it as well,buy 5 rolls at a time.