rugbyjon112
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Everything posted by rugbyjon112
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Where can I get a good quality replacement Gastank for my 47 P15 special deluxe 2-door sedan that requires no modifications to install?
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Marcel, there wasn’t a breather tube on my original tank either. And the cap isn’t vented as far as I can tell.
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Cannuck, I’ll call Andy Bernbaums Monday and talk to them about it. I’ve purchased a few parts from them with good success.
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Ratbaily, did you install it yet? Was there any modification required? Do you have the website info for Vans?
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Can anyone tell me who makes the best replacement fuel tank? I purchased one from eBay, but the quality is not good.
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I have a 1947 Plymouth P15 With the original untouched 218 “L” head engine. Will it cause any damage if I use non-ethanol fuel without using a lead additive?
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RobertKB - the floor extension on the left side is really the only bad spot in the floors. I’m planning to replace the whole front floor over the winter though. I may just wait and do the breaks at that time.
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I can’t get the peddles off of the pivot shaft. I’ve removed the plunger and boot and have the peddles out of the way to make it easier to rebuild when the kits gets here later this week. I’m planning to put a new floor in the car over the winter so I’ll replace the master cylinder assembly with the new one while the floors are out. This is my first P15 so it’s all a huge learning curve for me. I appreciate all of the input.
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I do. I can get the shaft about 1/2 way off of both peddles, but that’s about it. I’ve been considering just rebuilding the master cylinder in place vs replacing it with the new one I have.
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Unfortunately I did not remove the floors due to the fear of breaking some of the bolts. Sounds like that’s the best way to go though. Short of that, I’ve been think of just rebuilding the original master cylinder in place.
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Can anyone give any advice about changing the master cylinder in my P15 Special Deluxe 2 door sedan. The break/clutch peddle pivot shaft is kicking my butt. I have the clutch spring off to relieve the tension. The clutch peddle is about 1/2 off the shaft, but will not go the rest of the way. I can get it about the same on the break peddle, but can’t get it out of either. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciate. Breaks are the last piece of the puzzle before I can put her back on the road for the first time in over 40 years.
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Thank you everyone for the great advice and direction. I’ll definitely give it a try. It sounds like the cap is just stuck from sitting for Over 40 years. I can back the bolt all the way out, but the cap won’t move. Any advice on how to get it unstuck?
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Thanks for the information everyone. That gives me a good starting point. Rallyace - is actually like to replace that one with one of the ones that has a disposable filter cartridge inside.
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Can anyone help me out sourcing a replacement oil filter? Preferably like the or in my 1947 P15 Special Deluxe. It looks like the ones I’ve seen with a replaceable filter cartridge, but the top doesn’t come off to replace the cartridge. See pic for reference.
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Update: The arcing was happening because the interior light switch was on. The voltage regulator stopped clicking when the battery was completely charged. Seems like it’s working just fine now. I have ordered a new one that I will use to replace the old one when/if it goes bad. Thank you everyone for all the great advice. I’m new to the P15 world, but so far, I’m loving it! Great old cars.
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Los_Control, great information. I’ll give the batter a full charge then check it again. As for the wiring, honestly, it’s about 50/50. My plan is to rewire the car. I’m planning to order period correct wire in the correct colors. As for “starting every time”, I was just able to get the car started for the first time in over 40 years last week. I’m still in the process of hooking everything up so I can let it run and get up to operating temp. That’s my plan for this weekend. I’m planning to install a new fuel tank and lines and the radiator, thermostat, and new hoses.
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DJ - I’ll check the voltage regulator. I didn’t think about that. Should it click or is that an indication that it needs replaced? I didn’t think about the door being opened. I’ll hav me to check that and see if that makes a difference. Update: Just checked. It’s the voltage regulator. Does that mean it’s working properly or that it needs replaced?
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I recently got my 1947 P15 SD started for the first time in over 40 years. Since then, I’ve noticed a “clicking” when I connect or disconnect the positive cable from the battery (still 6v positive ground system). There is also some arcing when I connect or disconnect the battery. It seems to be coming from the starter/generator area. I haven’t been able to pinpoint it yet. Does anyone have any ideas on a cause?
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Am I to understand that side view mirrors were not standard equipment, but a dealer added option?
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BobT-47P15 - the outer section is a thermometer. For some reason when I uploaded the photo it turned it sideways. The section you’re referring to is actually the top section of the mirror.
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Does anyone have any information on this mirror? Trying to figure out if it was a dealer upgrade or later addition
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Sniper, What’s the best way to make that determination?
