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Posted

So I’ve read all the relevant prior posts but I’m out of ideas. I don’t have a steering wheel puller and neither did my local auto parts store. Since I have the type of wheel that has threaded holes (3/8 coarse- but only 2 not 3 as pictures in the workshop manual) I decided to use a 7 ton puller that they had. I was able to loosen the nut after spraying and with a 1/2” long ratchet. Left the nut on and had to use a washer under the puller. The 7 ton puller is cranked hard and nothing has popped. I sprayed it again and have left it overnight so we will see in the am. Any suggestions as  to a next steps to remove would be appreciated. I suppose if I have to I will have to refinish in place. Thank you

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Posted

In your picture it looks like the bolts are tight against the steer wheel nut putting the bolts in a bind and also making it harder to get a straight pull. Remove the nut and put a bolt in to the shaft hole to push against and protect the shaft. Try again. May need to love tap the center bolt of the puller. Don't want to mark it up? put a socket over to cover  it and love tap  several times as needed.

Posted

Thanks... I’ve given it a love tap or two. Good idea on the bolt (although it is just the angle of the picture which makes it look like the nut is touching - it isn’t) as I think the washer has flexed some. If it hasn’t given way when I get back in the morning, I’ll change up and use a bolt as suggested. 

Posted

JSabah,

 

You might also try an air hammer with the flat bit and the hammer turned down low on the puller bolt. That should send vibes down it to help loosen up the wheel. Just use short controlled taps on the trigger.

 

Joe Lee

  • Like 1
Posted

Maybe it's the angle, but in the pics it appears that the 'elbow' of the puller arms is bearing on the steering wheel.  If so, it is being pulled off and pushed on at the same time.''

 

A little two or three armed puller,image.png.646bea4d09d0a0db7d62b09b312f66d1.pngsimilar to this one:  sold for crank pulley removal would be a much better choice.  And a lot cheaper.

Posted
4 hours ago, NickPickToo said:

I used a harmonic balancer removal tool.  It seemed to fit better than the tool you are using.

I actually narrowed one of those as well but the model I got didn’t allow the bolts to be as close as they needed to be. Also the body didn’t look as beefy as the one you picture. Maybe I’ll go to a different store and look again 

Posted

before damaging the shaft or whatever....so to your local big box parts store with a loaned tool program and walk out with a harmonic balancer puller IF NOT AN ACTUAL steering wheel puller.....

 

option two...some small engine flywheel tool may work...check the local small engine repair shops...

Posted

I bought this one to pull the banjo steering wheel on my '39 Plymouth. I needed one that allowed the three bolts that screw into the wheel to be very close to the center of the wheel. This worked well.

 

steering wheel puller.JPG

Posted

fortunately most all our old machines have threaded hubs for the puller to attach...BUT all do not....I just removed a wheel from a shaft where there were no such provisions and the smack and go was the prescribed method....don't give you much of a warm fuzzy with that procedure...if it buggered the shaft I was content to go with a Porsche column...very universally adaptable..

Posted (edited)

Wrong “pop”!

 

so I used a bolt in the shaft instead of the washers (as the washers were bending). Also added more penetrating oil. Then cranked and got excited when I heard a “pop”. When I removed the puller, I found that I cracked my steering nut (and the steering wheel was still hard on). So since the only reason I was trying to remove the wheel was to have an easier time refinishing it, I decided not to risk damage and refinish it in the car. Masked and primed on day one, sanded painted with airbrush and 2k clear on day 2 .... job done (now if I only had a nut I could put it back together and check off that box)

Edited by JSabah
Posted

I could be mistaken, but, looking closely at the picture, it looks like the large nut that secures the steering wheel to the shaft was never removed. Is this the same nut that cracked?

Posted

The correct "steering Wheel Puller" and hardened steering shaft "Pilot" bolt would remove that steering wheel safely and quickly.

I understand finding the proper folder type tools can be difficult as wheels today require different pullers?

Posted
On 10/23/2019 at 10:42 PM, JSabah said:

So I’ve read all the relevant prior posts but I’m out of ideas. I don’t have a steering wheel puller and neither did my local auto parts store. Since I have the type of wheel that has threaded holes (3/8 coarse- but only 2 not 3 as pictures in the workshop manual) I decided to use a 7 ton puller that they had. I was able to loosen the nut after spraying and with a 1/2” long ratchet. Left the nut on and had to use a washer under the puller. The 7 ton puller is cranked hard and nothing has popped. I sprayed it again and have left it overnight so we will see in the am. Any suggestions as  to a next steps to remove would be appreciated. I suppose if I have to I will have to refinish in place. Thank you

E9DB076F-2D13-4795-AFF9-5D25C985D7DF.jpeg

B62A85A5-B249-4634-9990-93459416DFF3.jpeg

B8C35211-6FFC-41EA-A0CA-F6C796D1F273.jpeg

I think I might have an extra c-612 main body for the steering wheel puller but if I remember correctly it did not have the center main bolt that is used to push the steering wheel off the shaft.  You could get someone to make a shaft if you know a good machinest.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

Posted
On 10/28/2019 at 4:16 PM, desoto1939 said:

I think I might have an extra c-612 main body for the steering wheel puller but if I remember correctly it did not have the center main bolt that is used to push the steering wheel off the shaft.  You could get someone to make a shaft if you know a good machinest.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

thanks but no need. Steering wheel project is done. 

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  • Like 2

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