Dodge b series 1/2 ton.

[Michael Sams]

Hello all. I was wondering if someone could help me with a question. I'm doing my first restoration on a 1953 1/2 ton b series. Are the front ends and front fenders the same as the model year 1952. And can they be swapped out with each other.

Edited August 1, 2019 by Michael Sams

[Dodgeb4ya]

Yes...and yes...

[Brent B3B]

hey welcome Michael, if your doing a "restoration" be careful when you get to removing the emblems.... especially that dash "dodge" script!

 

oh and please don't put the front clip "dodge" script from the 52 back on the 53..... that's just wrong!

[Michael Sams]

BRENTB3B Thank you,

My plan is to keep it all orginal.  But I'm having a hard time finding front fenders and running boards for the b4b. A ton of b3b fenders. I know the rear fenders are different.  But I wasn't sure about the front 

[Brent B3B]

like Dodgeb4ya mentioned. the front fenders for the 1/2 ton are the same (b3 and b4).... the running boards for the 1/2 ton are the same (b3 and b4).... when you get into the 3/4 and one ton the running boards will vary (in length) per wheel base and bed package.  

 

  

Edited August 1, 2019 by Brent B3B

[Michael Sams]

Brent b3b

What are the differences in the 3/4 And 1 ton. Are them bodys the same as the 1/2 tons.

[Reg Evans]

Usually the 3/4 and 1 ton's have longer beds so the running boards are longer too.

[Brent B3B]

13 minutes ago, Michael Sams said:

Brent b3b

What are the differences in the 3/4 And 1 ton. Are them bodys the same as the 1/2 tons.

difference is 1/4 ton (LOL, just kidding!) suspension and wheel base is the biggies.

yes, my B4D (one ton) sheet metal is the same as my B3B (1/2 ton)

 

this is a great "resource" http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/ph_parts/pilothouse.htm if you haven't seen it yet

 

[Michael Sams]

Lol 1/4 ton

Brent b3b thank you for taking taking the time to help me. I really appreciate it this is all new to me and I'm hooked.

[Young Ed]

2 hours ago, Brent B3B said:

like Dodgeb4ya mentioned. the front fenders for the 1/2 ton are the same (b3 and b4).... the running boards for the 1/2 ton are the same (b3 and b4).... when you get into the 3/4 and one ton the running boards will vary (in length) per wheel base and bed package.  

 

  

I'm far from the pilot house expert but aren't the B4 running boards unique because of the fender change?

[Brent B3B]

1 hour ago, Young Ed said:

I'm far from the pilot house expert but aren't the B4 running boards unique because of the fender change?

your right, Good Call ED!

I must be water logged from all the "Sprite"

[Bobacuda]

Michael -

I have restored a B4B, long wheel base with Fluid Drive.  Take LOTS of photos and expect frustration on a regular basis.  When you rewire it, make the wires behind the dash longer than original - it will make your life MUCH easier when you put it back together or have to change a light bulb (I wish someone had warned me to do that).  If you get stuck on something, I might have a photo that will help.

 

Oh, and if you have the one year only plastic Dodge emblem from the dash (Brent's photo), be darn careful with it and not club-fisted like me.  The little metal clips on the mounting prongs work great for breaking off the prongs, and clumsy fingers are great for breaking the script.  On top of that, it isn't really made of plastic, its made from pure Unobtanium.  Brent's photo is the one from my truck that I kinda broke twice, glued back together, painted the back white and got mounted in my truck.

 

Photo is my truck at Luckenbach, TX.  Good luck working on your "Time Machine."

Bob

Edited August 3, 2019 by Bobacuda

[The Oil Soup]

Hey Michael, how about some photos of your project.

[Michael Sams]

Guys this is what I'm going to be working with. But I guess you have to start somewhere. I will be the official second owner of this beauty. And have the whole history on this truck. It's going to be a long road but I'm in for the long haul. I can't wait to get it back up and running and start to drive it. Thanks for all the help so far and hope that I might be able to call on you all for some help. 

[Brent B3B]

I have worse Michael. ?

get it running (and stopping) and have fun!

[pflaming]

Great patina, paint destroys history! 

[John-T-53]

23 hours ago, Bobacuda said:

Michael -

I have restored a B4B, long wheel base with Fluid Drive.  Take LOTS of photos and expect frustration on a regular basis.  When you rewire it, make the wires behind the dash longer than original - it will make your life MUCH easier when you put it back together or have to change a light bulb (I wish someone had warned me to do that).  If you get stuck on something, I might have a photo that will help.

 

Oh, and if you have the one year only plastic Dodge emblem from the dash (Brent's photo), be darn careful with it and not club-fisted like me.  The little metal clips on the mounting prongs work great for breaking off the prongs, and clumsy fingers are great for breaking the script.  On top of that, it isn't really made of plastic, its made from pure Unobtanium.  Brent's photo is the one from my truck that I kinda broke twice, glued back together, painted the back white and got mounted in my truck.

 

Photo is my truck at Luckenbach, TX.  Good luck working on your "Time Machine."

Bob

 

The only thing missing in that shot are Willie, Waylon, and the boys....

 

 

[Michael Sams]

Gentlemen I have to pick it up Friday and I know it has two tires that wint hold air. What size rims will fit on the 53 so I can just get it up on the trailer. 

[Los_Control]

49 minutes ago, Michael Sams said:

Gentlemen I have to pick it up Friday and I know it has two tires that wint hold air. What size rims will fit on the 53 so I can just get it up on the trailer. 

You should have a 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern. Would be jeep, ford ranger, explorer etc...

Be aware, your truck has lug bolts and not lug nuts. So factory installs a locating pin on the hubs, to keep the wheel in line while installing the bolts.

Any modern wheels will not have the hole for the locating pins.

You can drill holes in the modern wheels for them, or you can use a hammer and break the pins off ... is your truck and your choice.

 

Also the left/driver side, the lug bolts are left hand thread. You will go clockwise to loosen them.

 

The rust holes on your fenders, if that is all that is wrong with them, you may as well keep and fix them. They all rust out in that area and need repair or have already been repaired.

There is a mounting bracket riveted to the fender in that location. It traps water and rust out.

Just sayin, good luck trying to find a set without that area rusted

Grind the rivets out, patch the hole, mount the bracket back using carriage bolts, looks close to original rivets.

 

Good luck.

[Michael Sams]

Thank you Los_ Control that info helps me out tremendously.

[CO54]

That's a good find, especially from upper Michigan.  Just spent a week in Hillman at the family cabin in late June.

[Radarsonwheels]

Looks cherry! 

 

I applaud your ambition- I thought mine was too far gone to restore or else I wouldn’t have butchered it.

 

Post some progress shots when you start gettin into it, and good luck!

[pflaming]

Before and now pics of my truck. I’ll take rust over soot any day. 

[Dodgeed]

10 minutes ago, pflaming said:

Before and now pics of my truck. I’ll take rust over soot any day. 

Yikes. Was the fire within, or the outside? 

[Los_Control]

was caused by a cat prowler