Battered Battery

[Russell Winje]

I knew when the 1949 Chrysler New Yorker, 8cly,  arrived last year on a trailer that the battery was toast.  That said, a further inspection showed that it was old but hardly used, just uncharged. It was summer and with a bit of clean up it made it through all the start and stops that followed right through summer and fall.  Then came winter and the first cold weather started to have its effect and the battery slowly came to a sad end, all its 625 CCA were gone.  Now as I look around I'm finding various 900+CCA alternatives from long and narrow to tractor.  Certainly there is plenty of room to accommodate most anything.  I have the red top in my little 1958 FC150, and it's great.  However, I wondered what you have found as your favorites?  Our winters get right down there in Temp, hovering in the single digits at night to mid 30s in the day right now.  I'm leaning toward the Napa BAT 7212, Group 4 6 volt right now as its available locally.   

[Dave72dt]

I deal with cold also and as such, I opt for as much CCA as the box will hold.  Ask about warranty though before you purchase.  That battery as well as most 6V will be considered commercial and warranty usually is about 6 months free, 12 prorated.  Good part is you can probably replace it twice for the price of an Optima.

[Dan Hiebert]

I have a NAPA Commercial #7244 in our D24.  785 amps with 640 CCA.  I prefer higher CCA as well, I seem to be moving into colder and colder climates.  NAPA's commercial warranty is as Dave72dt cited.  Although NAPA was the only place here with a 6v battery in stock, I'm still pleased with it.  It was about $77 if I remember correctly, pretty much the average price if I had ordered one from one of the other shops (O'Reilly & Advance Auto), but those had less CCA.  Tractor supply supposedly has 6v batteries, but the TSC here is a smaller one and never has any in stock.  I wouldn't be opposed to an Optima red top, but at over $200 I'm not convinced it's necessary...yet.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I see a red top in the pic I believe....have you tried to slow charge this pup, two amp slow charge....some modern chargers will not charge very low batteries...often you have to parallel a battery to start current flow from the charger.....you can on older chargers put a small lamp across the terminal to create current flow...

[soth122003]

2 things.

1. I saw a video on you tube about draining the battery juice and neutralizing it with baking soda, then rinse the battery out with distilled water, fill with distilled water and charge it to remove the sulfation, drain and fill with acid from the local auto parts store for about $20. Charge and check the battery with a load tester and hopefully it works like new. This was for deep cycle batteries but the 6v battery should handle this fairly well because of the thick plates in the battery. Might get another 2-3 years out of it that way.

 

2. Tractor supply sells the 6v battery for about $80 w/ and extended warrenty for about an extra 6-8 bucks. It's the one I got and it has 700 CCA. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-1-6v-heavy-duty-battery?rfk=1

[Los_Control]

2 minutes ago, soth122003 said:

2 things.

1. I saw a video on you tube about draining the battery juice and neutralizing it with baking soda, then rinse the battery out with distilled water, fill with distilled water and charge it to remove the sulfation, drain and fill with acid from the local auto parts store for about $20. Charge and check the battery with a load tester and hopefully it works like new. This was for deep cycle batteries but the 6v battery should handle this fairly well because of the thick plates in the battery. Might get another 2-3 years out of it that way.

 

2. Tractor supply sells the 6v battery for about $80 w/ and extended warrenty for about an extra 6-8 bucks. It's the one I got and it has 700 CCA. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-1-6v-heavy-duty-battery?rfk=1

just to add to this, also some will take the battery and roll it down a hill. Corrosion builds up between the plates, rolling it down the hill will knock the crap loose, then drain, clean & refill

[Dave72dt]

For those suggesting the drain and refill, have you found anyplace willing to take used acid, w/ wo a fee?

[Dodgeb4ya]

I run the NAPA Group 4's in my straight 8 Chryslers.

They last more than 3 years and have tons of reserve cranking power..

Group 2's are weak and don't last against the eight cylinder cars IMO.I've run these for over 25 years.

[Plymouthy Adams]

2 hours ago, Dave72dt said:

For those suggesting the drain and refill, have you found anyplace willing to take used acid, w/ wo a fee?

you neutralize it....

[Dave72dt]

should have thought of that.  Goes to prove everyone can have a "Duh" moment.  I just wish I didn't have so many.

[Plymouthy Adams]

yeah with the basic mood of all things these days...first call is to recycle and often we forget we can recycle some things ourselves without a third party.....we all guilty of this from time to time.....

[plymouthcranbrook]

I have a Farm and Fleet battery in my 52 that I just realized is 10 years old. Just now starting to crank a little slow.

[knuckleharley]

I think there is a lot to be said for buying locally and being able to just go to the store for a replacement if it goes bad before the warranty ends.

 

Plus it helps keep your "neighbors" employed,and they will still be there the next time you need them.

 

Sometimes saving a few bucks can turn out to be counter-productive in the long run.

[desoto1939]

I would also suggest that you get a battery tender for your car and keep the  clips on the posts.  The worst thing is not having the battery at fullcharge.  By keeping the battery tender attached this keeps the battery at charge and extends the life of the battery.  I had a 6v battery last me 8 years. It would have lasted longer but one of my lead wires to the volt regulator broke so it drained the battery.

 

rich hartung

[Russell Winje]

20 hours ago, Los_Control said:

just to add to this, also some will take the battery and roll it down a hill. Corrosion builds up between the plates, rolling it down the hill will knock the crap loose, then drain, clean & refill 

Can I leave it in the car and roll the car down the hill?

[Russell Winje]

20 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

I see a red top in the pic I believe....have you tried to slow charge this pup, two amp slow charge....some modern chargers will not charge very low batteries...often you have to parallel a battery to start current flow from the charger.....you can on older chargers put a small lamp across the terminal to create current flow...

Correct, there is a red top in the pic.  That one belongs to my car hauler friend.  I sure eyeballed it when I was getting the car ready to drive off the trailer that day, however with luck on that hot summer's day, the original battery took a charge and the car started, setting up a smoke screen that would impress Bat Man.

 

[Russell Winje]

12 hours ago, desoto1939 said:

I would also suggest that you get a battery tender for your car and keep the  clips on the posts.  The worst thing is not having the battery at fullcharge.  By keeping the battery tender attached this keeps the battery at charge and extends the life of the battery.  I had a 6v battery last me 8 years. It would have lasted longer but one of my lead wires to the volt regulator broke so it drained the battery.

 

rich hartung

Good idea.  I do use a tender on my FC150, and it sure does help.

 

[Russell Winje]

19 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

I run the NAPA Group 4's in my straight 8 Chryslers.

They last more than 3 years and have tons of reserve cranking power..

Group 2's are weak and don't last against the eight cylinder cars IMO.I've run these for over 25 years.

Yesterday I called our local Napa and got the 7212 (group 4) on order and once I have my customers settled  for the week I will head over the mountains to get it.

[Russell Winje]

13 hours ago, knuckleharley said:

I think there is a lot to be said for buying locally and being able to just go to the store for a replacement if it goes bad before the warranty ends.

 

Plus it helps keep your "neighbors" employed,and they will still be there the next time you need them.

 

Sometimes saving a few bucks can turn out to be counter-productive in the long run.

Agreed.  Our "small businesses" (wife's store, or my maintenance service) require local interaction in this rural area. 

[Russell Winje]

16 hours ago, plymouthcranbrook said:

I have a Farm and Fleet battery in my 52 that I just realized is 10 years old. Just now starting to crank a little slow.

After 68 years I'm not just cranking slower, but cranky more often as well.

 

[plymouthcranbrook]

4 hours ago, Russell Winje said:

After 68 years I'm not just cranking slower, but cranky more often as well.

 

I am 68 as well and really down to fits and starts. More fits than starts.

[Russell Winje]

On 1/2/2019 at 10:53 AM, Dodgeb4ya said:

I run the NAPA Group 4's in my straight 8 Chryslers.

They last more than 3 years and have tons of reserve cranking power..

Group 2's are weak and don't last against the eight cylinder cars IMO.I've run these for over 25 years.

Picked up the Napa BAT7212 yesterday, group 4 with 925 CCA.   Started the Chrysler New Yorker (straight 8 also) and ran it up and down the road to warm her up enough to change out the oil filter and summer oil, installing a fresh filter and winter oil.  All set for winter now.