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Hound dog hauler


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New project, new post.

This is a 1949 B1B, it has a few twist to it. It has a column shift, and the E-brake is mounted under the dash, the brake master cylinder is accessed from under the hood and not from the floor.

The serial number on the door jamb ends with a X, so it is a 1949 fitted with the 1950 changes.

This truck will need attention just about everywhere, but IMHO, not a bad start.

I was told the gentlemasn that owned it since 1970 (acording to title date) died 10 years ago, I suspect the truck has been sitting a few years longer then that.


First day I have the cylinders soaking in atf, the end of the day I checked and the engine does turn freely.

Someone was attempting to remove T-stat housing and broke one of the bolts, I have no choice but to deal with it now, if I want to start the engine and let it run.

Also it has the original brass T-stat, it seems to be stuck open,  was full of rust on top of the t-stat and also in the head. The valve in the head to control water to the heater, also completely clogged with crud. I suspect I will have some cooling issues as it is.

Also someone removed the wiring to the generator and loosened it, had to tighten it and adjust fan belt to turn it over.

Original cloth wiring had some work done to it at some point, basically it needs new wiring, I will have to use jumper cables and hot wire it, to check the motor. To many frayed wires touching metal to install a battery.




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First thing up was cleaning the rats & sqirrel nest out, I removed the seat frame and looking at the floor.

It is pretty rough, truck did come with a new floor pan. I spent some time fitting it today, but still not cut out the original pan.

Here is the photo of the busted T-stat stud, is soaking in oil but may need some heat.





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if you have the means to heat that through two cycle at cherry red...then let cool a bit after the second heat to red....it ought to back out fairly easily....do a few left to rights twist to loosen the rust scale if it gets part way out and starts to bind..heat it again...probably the portion that was inside the water jacket just now reaching the threaded section in the head..

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Master cylinder looks like it's where it belongs.

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31 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Master cylinder looks like it's where it belongs.

Maybe it is me then ... I swear that My other 49 the master is on the other side of the cross member and has a acces panel through the floor.

That was over at my uncles place, and I know for sure his international is under the floor, think his old chevy is under the floor .... I could be getting these trucks confused.


The whole floor was covered with rodents nest, and I wanted to add some fluid to see if they would work ... I spent some time getting everything cleaned up and vaccumed, all the while looking for the cover to the master cylinder ... then realized it was in the front of the cross member   DOH!

I automatically blamed this on the changes to the 1950 upgrades, not my poor memorry  ;)


found a photo of my other 49, looks like it is in the same place

a 027.jpg

Edited by Los_Control
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Not much done today, my disability wears me out and sometimes we just need to take a rest.

I did get the broken bolt out and ready to re-install the T-stat housing, I set the front end on blocks and pulled the front wheels .... I have a nice set of 235 75r 15 I pulled off my chevy last week.

So I painted the front 2 wheels, tomorrow will get tires swapped.


Wife is being very patient with me, in the middle of cleaning up the kitchen, built a hutch and a couple cabinets and painted the walls and the rest of the cabinets .... House was built in 1948 and like to keep it looking old but clean. Parking a 1949 dodge in the driveway is a home improvement to me.

But wife is asking me to finish the drawers and doors and paint. So I worked a little bit on that today also, so much for the day off   ;)




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5 hours ago, tom'sB2B said:

Interesting dent on the bottom side of the cab. Dents are like scars. I wonder how he got that one.

Looks like you might have the rear view mirror on the center bar option.

Yeah ... this is going to be a issue, such a hard part to get to.   My thoughts is heat up the metal, then crawl under with a baseball bat and try to poke it out with the curved wooden bat.

We will see what happens, other option is cut a cab corner from another truck and replace.


Looking at the rear fender, the cab corner, and the damage on door, it is rubbing on the front fender when you open the door.

I am guessing that the driver got out of the truck, had the door open and it rolled backwards, downhill and hit something hard.  ... Door and fender seems straight forward to fix, open to ideas on the cab corner.


1 hour ago, Jj1981 said:

WasI the curved front bumper bar  an option my  trucks bumper has the holes I think I really like that look

I think is all added on, the curved bar does bolt on or off, then the other bar is welded ... I am going to remove both.

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1 hour ago, Jj1981 said:

My driver  door has a place where the front fender hits. I couldn’t figure out what had made the paint scratch till I painted my and opened the door is this a problem with all pilothouses


only if your check arm is broken/missing or the door isn't mounted right

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On 9/26/2018 at 5:01 AM, ggdad1951 said:


only if your check arm is broken/missing or the door isn't mounted right

...or the rubber bumper is missing from the end of it

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I think in my situation, the door hinges are bent, truck rolled backwards and caught the door and not only bent the hinges, it put a crease in the door.

Fix would be to straighten the hinges and repair the sheet metal.


I picked up a new 6 volt battery today, went to install it after I disconnected the ignition switch, basically only the starter was connected.

With only the starter connected, I felt safe to hook up the battery cables.

I soon realized that someone before me, connected the battery to negative ground.

The post on the battery are different size, the existing cables would only connect backwards to negative ground.

Wondering how much damage was done, I ran jumper cables to the starter and I am not even getting a spark.

Then I put the battery on a battery charger, it runs 6 amps on 6 volt and it is charging steady at 5 amps, maybe the battery was just dead when they delivered it, charging will help.

Kinda a sick feeling in my gut at what all electrics was damaged in the past battery instalation.

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When I was a lad, the neighbor boys had a  hound dog truck. They had a cage behind the cab which held two hungry greyhound dogs. They would drive through the countryside and when they spotted a coyote they would release the dogs. Lots of coyotes in the late 40's in western Nebraska. Some hunted coyotes flying pipercub airplanes. I think those little planes were covered with fabric. 

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We rescued a dog from the local shelter, she is a Ausrailian shepard puppy.

Then we also adopted a stray dog. Mix between a blue tick healer and a black lab, been abused, tail cropped and abandoned.


The abused dog is a real challenge, I can not pet her .... every morning she will jump on my bed and lick my face, as long as I am not standing she feels safe.

It is going slowly, we had her 4 months now, but both dogs are at or about 1 year old.

Every morning I get woken up by the two dogs, and I accuse them of hound dogging me, then I give them cookies while my coffee is cooking.


They will have front seat when it is time to go for a ride, or to the park or to go chase ducks .....

Will need to make a seat in the back for the wife  :P

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6 hours ago, ggdad1951 said:


If there is a rubber stop inside the door that would prevent the door from opening as far as it does, that would explain the crease on the door.

It literately opens past 90 degrees, the stop is the fender. The arm is in place and connected. .... I have not yet opened the door panels to lubricate and inspect.

I had no idea was rubber stop inside to prevent door from opening to far.


Today am fussing with the wiring.

After charging the new battery, the  engine turns over nicely. maybe if it had spark and fuel it would start.

Previous owner years ago, wrapped all the cloth wiring harness with black tape.  This saved it in a sense, we all know it still needs replaced.

He wrapped the 90% easy long runs, I am wrapping the final 10% where it comes out of harness and connected to lights and switches.

I think it may be mickey mouse, same time it allows me to connect a battery and check everything. Start it up and yard drive it.

Soon will be a cold winter day with the garage doors down, heat on and building a new wiring harness.

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DCM Classics has new rubber bump stops for the door check arms. And I believe they have complete door check arms too. I recently replaced the rubber on my passenger side door. It was still in tact, but when opened fully it would bump my mirror and change the adjustment. So I went in and replaced the old hard rubber stop with 2 new ones. by doubling them up it will now stop before hitting the mirror. 

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