Eneto-55 Posted February 21, 2020 Report Posted February 21, 2020 Missing mine as well - and never realized I was missing something there for years. (Rebuilt the engine & clutch back in 1980 or 81 - before the internet, and this great site.) I was figuring to make something some time, so it would be helpful if you could post a picture of what these screens look like uninstalled - what holds them in place, etc. I also pulled the engine out of my parts car, and while the bell housing was later stolen out of the trunk of the parts car (sitting outside behind my folks' house), I don't recall that there were screens on it, either. (My Dad came home once & caught some guys getting ready to put the whole car on their trailer. Stopped them, but at some point they or someone else took what ever they could carry off. Sadly, probably just for scrap iron.) Quote
YukonJack Posted February 23, 2020 Report Posted February 23, 2020 On 2/21/2020 at 1:53 PM, Eneto-55 said: Missing mine as well - and never realized I was missing something there for years. (Rebuilt the engine & clutch back in 1980 or 81 - before the internet, and this great site.) I was figuring to make something some time, so it would be helpful if you could post a picture of what these screens look like uninstalled - what holds them in place, etc. I also pulled the engine out of my parts car, and while the bell housing was later stolen out of the trunk of the parts car (sitting outside behind my folks' house), I don't recall that there were screens on it, either. (My Dad came home once & caught some guys getting ready to put the whole car on their trailer. Stopped them, but at some point they or someone else took what ever they could carry off. Sadly, probably just for scrap iron.) He should have called the police when he saw them trying to load it on a trailer. Quote
NickPickToo Posted February 25, 2020 Author Report Posted February 25, 2020 (edited) Does anyone have pics of the clutch and shifter linkage all connected for a p15 standard -- especially where it all intersects to connects to the bell housing? I'm 85% of the way there on this linkage but not certain. I took lots of pics when I tore it down, but there was so much grease and dirt that I can't see it all clearly. Edited February 25, 2020 by NickPickToo Quote
NickPickToo Posted February 26, 2020 Author Report Posted February 26, 2020 So in theory, this should be correct? Quote
NickPickToo Posted February 26, 2020 Author Report Posted February 26, 2020 (edited) some more Edited February 26, 2020 by NickPickToo Quote
NickPickToo Posted March 3, 2020 Author Report Posted March 3, 2020 (edited) The duel exhaust turned out a little ratted but that's what it took for us to get it in this time. Someday I'm going to find a better solution, but Dad's telling me I need to let this one stay for a while. On the up side. After I bleed the brakes I'll have a fully operational, drivable chassis Also notice I now have all four of the bell housing screens. Thank you PT-105FS! Edited July 3, 2020 by NickPickToo Quote
Merle Coggins Posted March 3, 2020 Report Posted March 3, 2020 Hey Nick, Once you have a driveable chassis you MUST do a quick test drive... LOL!! 1 Quote
Dartgame Posted March 4, 2020 Report Posted March 4, 2020 exhaust shop should be able to fab a down pipe for a few $ once the car is back together...looks good. Can't comment on the linkage though. Do you have a service manual to compare ? Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted March 4, 2020 Report Posted March 4, 2020 On 2/26/2020 at 3:22 PM, NickPickToo said: So in theory, this should be correct? Nick, I tried to snag some photos of the linkage on my car but couldn't get any angles that I thought would be helpful. If you can move the shifter through all the gears and the tranny output is verifying the different gears I think you will be safe in assuming everything is hooked up correctly. Your car really looks good! Quote
NickPick'sCrew Posted March 6, 2020 Report Posted March 6, 2020 Update on the brakes. He did a pretty good job going to the rear. Just had to tighten down a few junctions. Tubes leading to the front leak like a public park fountain. Probably going need to re-run these lines. But given this was his first attempt at flaring, not bad work. Quote
kbuhagiar Posted March 6, 2020 Report Posted March 6, 2020 1 hour ago, NickPick'sCrew said: Update on the brakes. He did a pretty good job going to the rear. Just had to tighten down a few junctions. Tubes leading to the front leak like a public park fountain. Probably going need to re-run these lines. But given this was his first attempt at flaring, not bad work. FWIW, I've installed many a brake line in my years of wrenching, and I've ALWAYS had to go back over and fiddle with them several times to eliminate the leaks. It's usually just a matter of loosening, and then re-tightening the lines, sometimes several times. A good set of name-brand flare nut wrenches is invaluable, as I am surprised at how much I have to crank on the fittings to get them to properly seat and eventually seal. Always good to hear a progress report, best regards to to the lead mechanic! ?? Quote
mrwrstory Posted March 6, 2020 Report Posted March 6, 2020 33 minutes ago, kbuhagiar said: FWIW, I've installed many a brake line in my years of wrenching, and I've ALWAYS had to go back over and fiddle with them several times to eliminate the leaks. It's usually just a matter of loosening, and then re-tightening the lines, sometimes several times. A good set of name-brand flare nut wrenches is invaluable, as I am surprised at how much I have to crank on the fittings to get them to properly seat and eventually seal. Always good to hear a progress report, best regards to to the lead mechanic! ?? I've had the same experience. If you have carefully "flared", then tighten and re-tighten the fittings several times before starting over. Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted March 6, 2020 Report Posted March 6, 2020 (edited) I replumbed the brakes (and fuel system) on the P15 with pre-flared bendable lines from the local auto parts stores. By carefully laying out the lines I could use various lengths, did all the bending with bare hands and didn't have to do any flaring and the cost was very reasonable. A reverse flare union joined two lines on the long runs. The flare nut wrenches are indeed a great addition to the tool box. Edited March 6, 2020 by Sam Buchanan 1 Quote
soth122003 Posted March 6, 2020 Report Posted March 6, 2020 I used the pre flared lines as well when my front lines blew out. (they were toast any way) They work great and as Sam said they come in different lengths. As far as flaring your own lines, the best trick/tip I can give is make sure you have a good set of flare tools and make sure the line you are going to flare has no burrs or scars. The burrs cause leaks and the scars can cause cracks and then leaks. Joe Lee Quote
Tooljunkie Posted March 7, 2020 Report Posted March 7, 2020 I picked up a mastercool kit,very expensive but does an awesome job flaring lines. I use it often as auto repair is my business. I cant stress how important good quality flare nuts wrenches are. what helps is a tiny dab of never-seize between nut and flare,not so much it could contaminate the brake fluid. 1 Quote
NickPickToo Posted March 17, 2020 Author Report Posted March 17, 2020 Has absolutely nothing to do with my car, but it was fun to make. Sounds ridiculous. Quote
NickPickToo Posted March 17, 2020 Author Report Posted March 17, 2020 Dayton Audio. 40W 4 Ohms DAEX23EP-4 ($16 each) We placed it 2/5ths down and over. 9.6" on these 24"x24" panels ($6 each). Rounded the corners about 4.5" Each are used on different channels (L&R) so placement is same. Its supposed to be different if two panels on same channel Sanded the sides and front of panel with 60 grit and random orbital sander. It makes the panel sound a little better and look like suede. Eye screws are about 2" and secured with two part epoxy. JB Weld Clear with a spiral mixing nose The back of the box is a foam board from Michaels ($7 each) with felt from Joan Fabrics ($6 both) glued to it. 3M spray on glue 90 The wood is higher quality pine (about $130 total). There is an outer frame (31.5" square) and an inner ledge (30" square). the inner ledge has wholes in the top and bottom ledge to accept and hide knots from the cord (needed to isolate vibration from getting to the box). Lower cords just tight enough to keep the panel from swinging back into the box but not supper tight. We can't test for sure if the box improves the sound quality vs. hanging free, but it seems to sound better and looks nice. My older brother gets to use these when he goes back to college. I get to experiment with a different design, but after the car is done. Regarding the '47, we either have a rear main leak or a transmission leak now. Need to figure that out before we can move on ? Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted March 17, 2020 Report Posted March 17, 2020 Nick, here is the thread about how I stopped the leaks on my transmission: https://p15-d24.com/topic/50800-chasing-transmission-leak-48-p15/?tab=comments#comment-538887 At this point it would be very easy for you to pull the transmission and reseal it. I had rather try that first than mess with the rear seal. 1 Quote
NickPickToo Posted March 17, 2020 Author Report Posted March 17, 2020 14 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said: Nick, here is the thread about how I stopped the leaks on my transmission: https://p15-d24.com/topic/50800-chasing-transmission-leak-48-p15/?tab=comments#comment-538887 At this point it would be very easy for you to pull the transmission and reseal it. I had rather try that first than mess with the rear seal. Thanks, Yes I'm actually hoping its the transmission rather than the engine Quote
NickPickToo Posted March 20, 2020 Author Report Posted March 20, 2020 (edited) Okay, almost done with this diversion. My brother came up with an idea to add more mid/low range to the new speaker system. we paired one of these with each speaker. The sound of the total system is Ridiculous! Put the exciter on the center back of the can (we found these for $4 each at Joan Fabrics). Place the lid over the exciter and place feet on the lid. face the can up. Not completely unrelated to my build. I learned different ways to think about the sound dynamics as I put these in the '47. Not these literally, but use exciters in the interior Edited March 21, 2020 by NickPickToo Quote
NickPickToo Posted May 21, 2020 Author Report Posted May 21, 2020 (edited) Okay Im back. Covid messed my schedule up and I just couldn't get motivated. I also started working at the local Kroger as a Picker during all this. I shop for those who prefer curbside pickup. My badge literally says Nick Pick Up. I take my last test for the school year this Friday and will have a lot more time to work on her. Last we left it, I was worried about either a rear main or transmission leak. We took the transmission out and it was neither. The plug we put in the fitting for the oil pressure gage had wiggled loose and was leaking. I can't believe we didn't see that before taking it apart. We got the engine to idle smoothly. Sounds ridiculous. Link to video below Brakes are working without leaks, but we haven't really put any pressure on them yet. Next we need to put the transmission back on and get that video driving frame off. Edited May 21, 2020 by NickPickToo 5 Quote
casper50 Posted May 21, 2020 Report Posted May 21, 2020 It sounds and looks great Nick. Congrats. Quote
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