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About kbuhagiar

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    South San Francisco, CA
  • Interests
  • My Project Cars
    1947 Plymouth Special Deluxe Club Coupe

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    I'm still alive
  • Occupation
    **RETIRED** Telecommunications Manager


  • Location
    1947 Plymouth Special Deluxe 2-Door Coupe - South San Francisco, CA
  • Interests

Recent Profile Visitors

840 profile views
  1. Good job Nick! Glad to see you are making progress! Keep up the good work!
  2. FWIW, I've installed many a brake line in my years of wrenching, and I've ALWAYS had to go back over and fiddle with them several times to eliminate the leaks. It's usually just a matter of loosening, and then re-tightening the lines, sometimes several times. A good set of name-brand flare nut wrenches is invaluable, as I am surprised at how much I have to crank on the fittings to get them to properly seat and eventually seal. Always good to hear a progress report, best regards to to the lead mechanic! πŸš—πŸ‘
  3. I bought the Plymouth in 2008 and it was equipped this way when I got it. I entertained the notion of a remote fill upgrade over the years, but was never impressed with what was available. I have no idea where my bracket came from, but it is a solid well-engineered product that does the job well.
  4. I have this setup, albeit with a custom frame bracket that eliminates the original master cylinder. If you have manual brakes I would suggest that you use the 1" bore MC. The 1 1/8" (1.125) bore is better suited for use with power brakes. PS I was not impressed with the quality of the remote fill kits available. On my 47 Plymouth there is enough room between the bottom of the floorboard and the to of the MC to allow me to check and fill the MC when necessary. Good luck!
  5. Nicholas, You are making fantastic progress! Keep up the good work! I've been away from the forum for a few months; as best as I can surmise, back in November (or somewhere thereabouts) I stopped receiving update notifications from the Forum. Unbeknownst to me, it appears that my email provider blacklisted all messages from P15/D24. Yesterday morning I realized that I hadn't gotten any updates on the build for quite some time so I checked in and found a backlog of private messages (one, actually) and about ten unread thread pages. I have since switched to a different email address (one of several I maintain for this very reason) and am now re-connected, as such, to the Forum. Slightly off topic...I noted a sad reference ('RIP') to esteemed member Don Coatney a few pages back - is this true? If so, we've lost a reliable source of sage advice - and spice. Carry on Nicholas (and Ben), looking forward to more updates.
  6. Excellent! That beats my best 5K time by about an hour.🀣
  7. IMHO you have a legitimate concern. I haven't yet mounted my prop valve on my 47 for the same reason; I'm not crazy about it hanging below the frame. That is one my projects this winter, I'm going to fab a bracket and lines to place it out of harm's way.
  8. Rvannoy, Thanks for the info. Photos would be great, I'm sure others on here may also be interested. I'm not as concerned with the engine compartment bits as i am with the evaporator fit and installation. Which Vintage Air unit did you use, and how much fabrication did it require? Thanks.
  9. Thanks Oldguy, My car has been updated to 12V, so that's not a problem. Do they have a specific kit designed for a P15, or just a generic model? Any particular difficulties about the installation? Thanks again!
  10. Thanks pflaming, I have a VA unit in my 56 Chevy, and many of my gearhead buddies are using VA in their rides. FWIW the engine in my car is a V8, not stock.
  11. Hello Folks, I am considering installing AC in my 1947 Plymouth Special Deluxe Club Coupe, and I am looking for recommendations for an aftermarket AC kit. Has anyone here successfully installed AC into a P15? If so, what vendor/kit did you use? Thanks in advance.
  12. 'Wholegrain mechanical goodness'. I gotta remember that.☺️
  13. UPDATE: For the record, I finally got around to doing this. There is no nut or other method to tighten the post. The spring is held in place with a fixed split washer. I was able to shim the spring to create more tension on the post, plus I also swapped the visors side-for-side. This seems to have fixed the problem.
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