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Modern distributor used in the flatheads?


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Posted

The more I read the more questions come up.  Has anyone ever found a more modern (70's, 80's) 6 cyl distributor that would fit (stock) in our flatheads.  I'm just fishing, mainly because I've never come across that info so far.  Thanks in advance.  Fran

Posted

I'm not sure how you define stock,but IIRC,Langdons Stovebolt makes a GM HEI distributor that is a bolt in.

 

http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/#!/Stovebolt-Mopar-Mini-HEI/p/1222043

 

 

 

 

Posted

I installed a Langdons HEI dissy in the 41 Plymouth I had a few yrs ago and found it was the best thing I'd done to the car, much quicker, cleaner starts, seemed to run better, overall was VERY pleased although some here have not had such good results but I would recommend it again.........Langdons delivery to me here in Oz was quick and well packed also........this pic is the only one I have of the installation.........andyd

IMG_1361.JPG

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Dodgefran said:

The more I read the more questions come up.  Has anyone ever found a more modern (70's, 80's) 6 cyl distributor that would fit (stock) in our flatheads.  I'm just fishing, mainly because I've never come across that info so far.  Thanks in advance.  Fran

For a thread that may provide some interesting reading -  check out, "flathead to slant 6 distributor conversion",posted by forum member,"thrashingcows",posted on Dec 16 ,2011.:)

Edited by Ralph D25cpe
  • Like 5
Posted

Here are pics of the slant 6 distributor conversion.

This is a very starightforward deal, not overly complicated, but use resistor type wires and plugs, no solid core wires.

You can also use a GM HEI with it too if you choose.

Most guys like this, but most guys on here have not done this first hand either, I have, and it is nice easy project.

20151020_210823_resized.jpg

20151020_210845_resized.jpg

20151023_121911_resized.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted
53 minutes ago, Rockwood said:

Here are pics of the slant 6 distributor conversion.

This is a very starightforward deal, not overly complicated, but use resistor type wires and plugs, no solid core wires.

You can also use a GM HEI with it too if you choose.

Most guys like this, but most guys on here have not done this first hand either, I have, and it is nice easy project.

 

I found it quite easy too. Worst part are those dang little clips under the rotors!

  • Like 1
  • 4 months later...
Posted

Hello gentlemen my name is Jose. I'm new to the forum. After reading and surfing the forum so much as a non member, it didn't allow me to surf anymore. I have 51 corenet, just received my Langdons HEI distributor. And after reading the pros and cons. The pros convinced me to get it, but I don't want to have that slight chance of failing on me. So my question is, has anyone actually VIDEO taped the "How to" of the distributor swap ?The car is my daily driver bread winner. Can't afford to take the bus... Thank you for your time and wisdom.... 

Posted

Beto0311.........unfortunately I no longer have my 41 Coupe so can't send any more pics & didn't tape the install but as my car was already converted  to 12volts it was a relatively straightforward swap, set the timing to TDC, removed the stock dissy, plug leads and coil, also the ballast resistor........installed the Langdons HEI dissy, leads & coil, installed a wire where the resistor was, set the timing and away we went, had to open the spark plug gap to around 40thou if memory serves me correct, in fact I think that it may have been 45thou, either way it had a nice strong spark and instead of sitting in the car winding the starter over, pumping gas, cursing and praying..........I could lean in through the drivers window, turn the key and VAROOM!!!!.......didn't even have to touch the gas pedal, let alone curse and discuss the cars parentage............like I said earlier the HEI was one of the best things I did when I had the car.............Andy Douglas     

  • Like 1
Posted
On 9/12/2016 at 3:04 PM, Rockwood said:

Here are pics of the slant 6 distributor conversion.

This is a very starightforward deal, not overly complicated, but use resistor type wires and plugs, no solid core wires.

You can also use a GM HEI with it too if you choose.

Most guys like this, but most guys on here have not done this first hand either, I have, and it is nice easy project.

20151020_210823_resized.jpg

20151020_210845_resized.jpg

20151023_121911_resized.jpg

Are my eyes fooling me?  Did you just swap out the center shaft to make this work?  If so, then how cool is that!  I have a few slant six distributors here to convert over with.

Posted
On 2/3/2017 at 3:22 AM, classiccarjack said:

Are my eyes fooling me?  Did you just swap out the center shaft to make this work?  If so, then how cool is that!  I have a few slant six distributors here to convert over with.

That's basically it. You have to sand down the outside base of the /6 dist to make it fit into the flathead. I did mine with a cordless drill by putting a long bolt through the dist and spinning it at first against a file and then with sand paper. Then swap the flathead shaft into the /6 body and build all the /6 stuff on top of it.

  • Like 1
Posted
14 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

That's basically it. You have to sand down the outside base of the /6 dist to make it fit into the flathead. I did mine with a cordless drill by putting a long bolt through the dist and spinning it at first against a file and then with sand paper. Then swap the flathead shaft into the /6 body and build all the /6 stuff on top of it.

I am going to have give this a whirl someday.  Thank you for the tip.

  • Like 1
Posted

we had a member here that worked up a very good pictorial step by step procedure to marry these two units for retrofitting the electronic...sorry I did not ear mark the thread but should be easily found or better yet the member himself point may point it out.  In the meantime a few minutes using the search feature may pay big dividends..

  • Like 2
Posted
11 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

we had a member here that worked up a very good pictorial step by step procedure to marry these two units for retrofitting the electronic...sorry I did not ear mark the thread but should be easily found or better yet the member himself point may point it out.  In the meantime a few minutes using the search feature may pay big dividends..

Thank you sir. 

  • 5 years later...
Posted
On 2/5/2017 at 2:40 PM, Plymouthy Adams said:

had a minute to spare....thought I would post this bookmark....

 

I've got a dumb question Tim, this slant 6 distributor swap won't work with the standard 6 volt system correct?? I'm trying to find a distributor I can just drop in and be done with it, I thought about buying one from langdon's, but I really don't want to convert to 12 volt, and then I thought about just putting in a pertronix igniter in my original distributor, but I'm pretty sure my vacuum advance is shot, it seems to be frozen

Posted (edited)

the last modules were true 12...early..there is a question there and though I have one, I have not tested so cannot confirm and to be honest with you not much concerned as I have no use for 6 volts and could care less others opinion as this one is mine....lol  Pertronix is not stable enough in my opinion and no OTC service with their line of products and worse than stock 6 volts based on that, again my opinion don't care what other think or do here.  Langdon, many problems in the past with his stuff and that atrocious cap...care not for that....again my opinion.  I see nothing wrong with point on a 6 volts system.  I run them on 12 volts when and where they are of a model I can buy across the counter.  No need to make things harder or reinvent the wheel.  My last upgrade engine in the 48 does not even have a distributor.  But in my opinion if I were going 12 volt with old school mechanicals, then the /6 dist upgrade is the only way to go.  

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
Posted

I'd just be happy to find a vacuum advance for my 1953 IAT distributor that didn't cost $65-75. 

Posted
2 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

the last modules were true 12...early..there is a question there and though I have one, I have not tested so cannot confirm and to be honest with you not much concerned as I have no use for 6 volts and could care less others opinion as this one is mine....lol  Pertronix is not stable enough in my opinion and no OTC service with their line of products and worse than stock 6 volts based on that, again my opinion don't care what other think or do here.  Langdon, many problems in the past with his stuff and that atrocious cap...care not for that....again my opinion.  I see nothing wrong with point on a 6 volts system.  I run them on 12 volts when and where they are of a model I can buy across the counter.  No need to make things harder or reinvent the wheel.  My last upgrade engine in the 48 does not even have a distributor.  But in my opinion if I were going 12 volt with old school mechanicals, then the /6 dist upgrade is the only way to go.  

I actually love points myself, and would keep my original distributor, I like 12 V better but my car is 6 V and I just paid almost $200 for a new 6 volt battery, if I could find another original distributor in very good shape, that would be the best of all worlds, but they're hard to come by these days, because like I said my vacuum advance is all messed up, and I'm really not good at taking stuff like this apart and making it go back together correctly again LOL it would be very happy if I could find something that I could just drop in, and it would be ready to run, but that I didn't have to convert everything to 12 volt, sorry just frustrated and venting ?

Posted

for the record, the mechanical advance if working is all you need for performance.  The vacuum advance is there to promote economy as the low load at speed will allow the engine to lean out by advancing the timing....add the load back in the vacuum signal is lessened and the advance is retarded/returned to mechanical control.  So other than a loss of a bit MPG you will not miss the vacuum advance.

Posted
12 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

for the record, the mechanical advance if working is all you need for performance.  The vacuum advance is there to promote economy as the low load at speed will allow the engine to lean out by advancing the timing....add the load back in the vacuum signal is lessened and the advance is retarded/returned to mechanical control.  So other than a loss of a bit MPG you will not miss the vacuum advance.

I should just stop bitching and take it out and fix it LOL I just wish I would have thought about checking it all out when I had the distributor out when I did the points and stuff, it's just getting down to the wire for my car club's first car show of the season on May 14th, and I wish I could just drop something in there instead of messing around with stuff, it runs great until you open it up, I did notice when I had it apart that the shaft was a little wobbly, basically what I'm trying to say is that it's just old LOL it's probably been rebuilt 500 times just like the carburetor and the generator and the starter motor

Posted

I would bet a dollar against a donut it has never been rebuilt....and something you could do..your prime concern here is the points cam....if it is good...pop new bushes in and let the big dog eat.......worry about the vacuum advance later....

  • Like 1
Posted
Just now, thebelvedereman said:

I did notice when I had it apart that the shaft was a little wobbly,

While I think some up and down play is acceptable, side play will affect the points gap, dwell etc while driving. Causing drive-ability issues.

 

I feel bad about the upcoming date for you car club ... getting close and maybe just leave things alone til after the show?

 

I would probably find a used distributor, maybe off of ebay or some other source, then rebuild it.

Then maybe do the same with the distributor you are currently using, keep it as a spare in the trunk if it is ever needed.

Just probably not enough time before the show to get it done.

 

I personally will probably go with the slant 6 conversion in the future. I have had really bad experiences with Chinese made points & condensers.

That does not include everyone, just talking for myself.

 

I have found a replacement for the condensers, is a brass unit and mounts outside the distributor ... not stock, but American made by a guy in his garage and well built.

The points are pretty much impossible for our old mopars.

The cheap Chinese garbage, the nylon rubbing block is poor quality. We always need to grease them when installing. The lower quality that is available, the nylon wears away and closes the point gap with every mile you drive.

Would really suck if you drive the car often and once a month needed to set the points and grease the rubbing block. Or pull over on the side of the road and replace the points .... At that point be nice to have a spare distributor in the trunk, pull the old one & drop a new one ready to go in it's place ... time it by ear to get you home.

If we had quality parts available, we would not have to think like this.

 

Besides that reason alone, I need to replace all 10 wires in my trucks wiring harness, the existing generator has a narrow pulley not the wide pulley it should have, I want a CB radio & some other modern additions .... That's my decision to go 12 volt ... you need to make your own decision.

 

 

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