Jeff Balazs Posted January 15, 2016 Report Posted January 15, 2016 Are you proposing Paul's pugnacious propensity for patina is purely premeditated.....that paint's a pretty prejudiced picture people..pffft. PP for President! Well to put it in cat terms........it looks like the crystallized crud of a crimean cat that crept into his crib and crapped 1 Quote
Jared Duramax Posted January 15, 2016 Author Report Posted January 15, 2016 hard telling if the speedometer rolled over. I have 3 that had around 80k on them and from the condition of one of them it could have been more .......or just more used and abused Based on the title I am going to go with it is all original mileage. Quote
Jared Duramax Posted January 15, 2016 Author Report Posted January 15, 2016 So far I have removed all the old wiring, Washed the truck and started taking some of it apart. ( i need to come up with a better parts storage system before i get to far any suggestions?) Quote
Dave72dt Posted January 15, 2016 Report Posted January 15, 2016 See through plastic totes work well for the bigger small parts. They can be filled by assembly groups, generally moisture and rodent free depending on the type you get, are stackable, baggies, photos (lots), markers and inventory sheets, designated storage area 1 Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted January 15, 2016 Report Posted January 15, 2016 What Dave suggested plus take lots of photos. Jeff 1 Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 15, 2016 Report Posted January 15, 2016 and then take more photos...if you take a photo of something that isn't clear...make a note...I took over 3000 pictures of my build tear dwon and many left me scratching my head a year or more later. I also suggest for REALLY complex things take a short video panning around, up and over and under to get all the stuff a picture might not catch easily. And yes, baggies.....LOTS AND LOTS of baggies (I think I went thru several dozen boxes). If you have an organization bend, you also might keep a spreadsheet of what is in each tote so it's easier to find instead of pulling everything out looking for the on ebaggie that says "Rear Fender Bolts" Quote
Brent B3B Posted January 15, 2016 Report Posted January 15, 2016 Great advice.... Jared, my 2cents, I would get it running like Rod said but, if you must tear it apart.... Forget the photos, go buy another one to refer to later 2 Quote
Jared Duramax Posted January 16, 2016 Author Report Posted January 16, 2016 Buying another has always been my go to answer that's why I am trying to avoid that. Good news is I am a mechanic for a profession and I have lots of experience with flat heads. Hopefully I can get the engine pulled Monday and tore down to start a parts list. Quote
pflaming Posted January 16, 2016 Report Posted January 16, 2016 (edited) When I started on my truck, I had no, nada auto mechanical knowledge and no organized parts storage other than large and small. All bolts and screws went into one coffee can, and nothing was labeled because I did not know one part from another. Photos, didn't have a good camera. Yet I rebuilt the engine, changed out the rear axle, wired it myself, and put on disc.brakes , for starters. Now I must add that I did not figure it all out alone, without this forum, a service manual, telephone calls, very forgiving yet demanding members, etc, It would have been much harder. And my reckless sorting / storage system, such as it was, cost me months of rework, etc. yet I got it done. One thing I did consistently was to use correct parts, bolts, etc. per manufacturing specifications. My point is this, if one is willing to listen, learn, and work these vehicles are quite simple machines. I like the work and the banter, such as it is. The first thing you have to do is start and the sequential next steps are "never stop" until you have driven it on a 200 mile round trip! Edited January 16, 2016 by pflaming Quote
Don Coatney Posted January 16, 2016 Report Posted January 16, 2016 When I started on my truck, I had no, nada auto mechanical knowledge and no organized parts storage other than large and small. All bolts and screws went into one coffee can, and nothing was labeled because I did not know one part from another. Photos, didn't have a good camera. Yet I rebuilt the engine, changed out the rear axle, wired it myself, and put on disc.brakes , for starters. The first thing you have to do is start and the sequential next steps are "never stop" until you have driven it on a 200 mile round trip! PP it is good you have made it this far. What grade bolts did you use when rebuilding your engine and how did you identify the bolts to tell one grade from the next? Can you post pictures of examples now that you have a good camera? Quote
Jared Duramax Posted January 16, 2016 Author Report Posted January 16, 2016 https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx Here is a link to bolt identification markings this is extremely handy when digging through an assortment of bolts. 1 Quote
Jared Duramax Posted January 27, 2016 Author Report Posted January 27, 2016 Im on the search for the grill louvers does anybody have a suggestion on where to find some? Quote
Desotodav Posted January 27, 2016 Report Posted January 27, 2016 You see them pop up on Ebay from time to time. They are usually not cheap though - stainless steel ones are considerably more expensive than the normal steel ones. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 27, 2016 Report Posted January 27, 2016 You see them pop up on Ebay from time to time. They are usually not cheap though - stainless steel ones are considerably more expensive than the normal steel ones. stainless ones on Epay? I have yet to see any for sale! If I did I 'd buy them and sell my sets of carbon steel! I still have the one upper NOS section in Stainless I'd like to find the mates for! Quote
Merle Coggins Posted January 27, 2016 Report Posted January 27, 2016 stainless ones on Epay? I have yet to see any for sale! If I did I 'd buy them and sell my sets of carbon steel! I still have the one upper NOS section in Stainless I'd like to find the mates for! I believe he is referring to the B1 / B2 style. They do come up from time to time. It's those new fangled ones that are more rare. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 27, 2016 Report Posted January 27, 2016 I believe he is referring to the B1 / B2 style. They do come up from time to time. It's those new fangled ones that are more rare. ooooo Quote
52b3b Joe Posted January 27, 2016 Report Posted January 27, 2016 stainless ones on Epay? I have yet to see any for sale! If I did I 'd buy them and sell my sets of carbon steel! I still have the one upper NOS section in Stainless I'd like to find the mates for! You mean a grill like this?? Man, I love doin' that! 4 Quote
Brent B3B Posted January 27, 2016 Report Posted January 27, 2016 (edited) You mean a grill like this?? Man, I love doin' that! IMG_1495 (002).PNG man, I need a smoke........ Edited January 27, 2016 by Brent B3B 3 Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 27, 2016 Report Posted January 27, 2016 You mean a grill like this?? Man, I love doin' that! IMG_1495 (002).PNG Keep it up and I'll never sell you the one whisker I do have! 2 Quote
Don Coatney Posted January 27, 2016 Report Posted January 27, 2016 Sig or weed? LOL Come on PP get with the program... 1 Quote
Jared Duramax Posted January 28, 2016 Author Report Posted January 28, 2016 I am looking for a set of steel B2 style Quote
Jared Duramax Posted February 20, 2016 Author Report Posted February 20, 2016 Well it looks like I am finally going to get a break on the weather this weekend and I will get almost all of it disassembled and ready for media blasting. I will get pictures of the progress. I am in the market for new wheels and what backspacing is everybody using? Quote
Jared Duramax Posted May 2, 2016 Author Report Posted May 2, 2016 (edited) Well it has been a while but i have made some progress. The doors are being rebuilt right now (the lower eight inches), the frame is stripped and i am working little by little on cleaning, welding, priming, and painting. The motor is torn down other than the # 6 piston which is seized so badly i can not get it to move with a 6lb hammer. Once I get it out the block will go to the machine shop to be decked, bored, and hot tanked. Overall the truck is in much worse shape than i thought it was in and i am seeing my august 24th initial test drive to dinner day coming a lot faster than i was hoping it would. Update: I just knocked the #6 piston out and the cylinder wall is so pitted that you can take a screw driver and knock holes into the water jacket. so it looks like this block is trashed i guess i will be on the look out for another block. Edited May 3, 2016 by Jared Duramax Quote
Young Ed Posted May 3, 2016 Report Posted May 3, 2016 Well it has been a while but i have made some progress. The doors are being rebuilt right now (the lower eight inches), the frame is stripped and i am working little by little on cleaning, welding, priming, and painting. The motor is torn down other than the # 6 piston which is seized so badly i can not get it to move with a 6lb hammer. Once I get it out the block will go to the machine shop to be decked, bored, and hot tanked. Overall the truck is in much worse shape than i thought it was in and i am seeing my august 24th initial test drive to dinner day coming a lot faster than i was hoping it would. Update: I just knocked the #6 piston out and the cylinder wall is so pitted that you can take a screw driver and knock holes into the water jacket. so it looks like this block is trashed i guess i will be on the look out for another block. Talk to your machine shop. Possibly fixed with a sleeve. 1 Quote
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