The Phoenix is awakening / B3B Rises from the Ashes

[pflaming]

Went out and measured my elec fan 13". Gonna abandon the idea and put the oem fan back on. Will use top quality sound / insulation to give me a quiet cab. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.

[cavisco1]

the other three boxes I mentioned does just that and very economically...I really am not sure you have given the boxes a fair shake but each person ahs the right to chose their weapon of choice...I also have never had a Mopar ECU fail....YET....!!!!! only above 10,500 is the need for the MSD...the Mopar Performance book is quite full of information like this and wiring configuration for retrofitting and or race application....the whole 9 yards of all what parts work with each unit...easy cheesy... 

I'm not disputing that there are some fine performance ignition offerings from Mopar performance. Good quality high performance gear. If I were going racing, they would be my first choice. I just think for a daily driver low RPM flatty the HEI is superior. As I mentioned in a previous post, I have used the Mopar EI for many years. Very reliable and a great upgrade over points, but I still think the HEI is superior in a daily driver low rpm flatty or slant or LA or BB for daily driver use. The stock Mopar box simply cannot match the performance of the stock HEI module.

At any rate we both seem to be repeating the same point over and over, so I'll leave it at that and wish you good luck with all you projects.

 

Take care,

Scott (cavisco)

 

pflaming,

 

My apologies for taking your thread off topic. My intent was simply to inform and I had no intention of hijacking your thread. 

Edited May 13, 2014 by cavisco1

[pflaming]

I didn't see it that way at all. I read with high interest. Oft times the side bars (hi-jacks) are the frosting. 

[cavisco1]

Paul,

 

I think you can convert the slant distributor using the shaft from a small block V8 distributor.

Disassemble the slant six distributor and keep the housing, star wheel, vacuum advance, base plate, magnetic pickup and cap and rotor.

The outside diameter at the base of the slant six distributor where it inserts in the block will need to be turned down to the same diameter as the original distributor in the flathead six.

You will use the V-8 distributor shaft and the nylon/plastic ring which holds the shaft from riding up. The shaft must be re-drilled 1 and 3/8ths of an inch above the previous hole for the V-8 application.

Put the shaft in the slant six housing with the base plate and magnetic pickup.

Reinstall the plastic/nylon ring in the new position. Install the slant six star wheel and rotor.

Adjust air gap between pickup and reluctor to .008 inch with a non magnetic (brass) feelers gauge.

Grind 1/8th of an inch from the bottom of the slant six rotor shaft.

The hold down-timing adjuster plate from the old flathead six distributor fits the slant six housing. Install that on the housing.

Install the distributor in the block and wire it up to the ignition controller of your choice.

I found this on the moparchat.com forum.

If you use this on a 25" block, I think you will need to turn down the shaft to match the thin section of shaft on the original flatty distributor to clear the bottom of the piston skirts.

You may need to transfer the advance springs from the flatty to the new distributor to maintain the original advance curve.

 

Scott.

Edited May 13, 2014 by cavisco1

[pflaming]

I spent some good time on the Phoenix today. The electric fuel pump is mounted to the frame and grounded accordingly, and the fuel line now is in tact. I took a hot wire off the IG switch to a 2nd switch and then to the pump. The pump then turns on with the IG switch. By hiding the 2nd switch I can turn off the pump as an anti theft method.

 

Will now double check all wires to the engine and then a friend and I are going to see if it will start. I see not reason not to, but the distributor may have been hot enough to be damaged. So wish me well, my goal is to have it running with new glass and new front tires by the end of the week. 

 

To be continued

 

[JerseyHarold]

Two thoughts:  1.  Electric fuel pumps usually have a safety switch (either an inertia switch or oil pressure switch) that will shut off the fuel pump in the event of impact or engine stalling to keep the pump from dumping fuel.  Do you have such a feature?

 

2.  Regardless of the final finish of the body, I'd paint the windshield and rear glass mounting channels with some sort of paint because you don't want rust to start there in the future and bubble up under your glass weatherstripping.

[porky55]

I don't know if you would consider it , but protronix has a electronic ignition conversion for the flat6. It is $90 or so. It is clean and all fits under the cap.

[pflaming]

Sometimes things go too slow. (1) the four wheeler's  use an inertia switch which cuts the electric full pump when things get 'out of control'. I'm going to check into that.  (2) I called the company which services the electric pump I installed and asked for their recommendation. The question had never been posed to them, so I guess and safety switch has not been a problem. (3) Went to put a car steering wheel on and it does NOT fit. (4) Distributor: I have two slant 6 electronic distributors and I am going to convert my distributor case so the slant 6 parts fit. Then I can get parts where ever. Should be running tomorrow.

[Mark Haymond]

I seem to remember.....the car steering wheel has a splined hole but there is a subtle flat spot in the hole that keys to a similar feature on the steering shaft. Of course if the diameter of the truck and car parts are different they just won't fit together.

[Dodgeb4ya]

As for the replacement steering wheel on your truck....are you tring to put a 1949 or later car wheel on your truck? They have a bigger hole.

Bob

[MBF]

Paul, the wheel I had packed and ready to ship to you when you asked me to hold off on shipping it got badly broken when the contractors were residing my garage.  I had the package up on a shelf, and the hammering that they were doing must have knocked it off the shelf and a lot of the bakelite got shattered when it hit the floor.   I should have shipped it as soon as I had it packed.  Tried to PM you,but your inbox must be full.   Sorry- Mike

[pflaming]

This has been sanded, washed, and cleaned with acetone

 

 

I brushed on phosphoric acid last night, left it for 12 hours, washed it and hung it on the fence

 

 

I wet sanded the surface after washing then two coats of primer, paint, and finally three coats of gloss flat. The two colors are a test to see which I prefer.  This is the dash I had in Zachary's 'boy cave'.  The builders came to finish so by late morning it was too noisy in the  garage to hear, so had to divert my attention for a day.

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

PP said:  I wet sanded the surface after washing then two coats of primer, paint, and finally three coats of gloss flat.

 

what is gloss flat?????

[Don Coatney]

Foolish question. Everyone knows this is a gloss flat

 

 

 

[ruff1148kr]

I kinda thought you were going  with a patriotic theme 

[Plymouthy Adams]

Don Coatney, on 21 May 2014 - 6:56 PM, said:

Foolish question. Everyone knows this is a gloss flat

 

gloss flat.jpg

Coatney explains it all....lol

[pflaming]

Since the flat gloss was unacceptable, I repainted it with gloss and placed it in the cab. This is an earlier dash so the real dash will be somewhat different. The two tone is more my curiosity than the color. As stated in earlier post(s) our daughter Sherri will be here next week. Color choice will be hers. 

 

 

Edited May 22, 2014 by pflaming

[RobertKB]

Not that I was asked, but I vote blue.

[DJ194950]

Not that I was asked, but I vote blue.

I agree.

Black and blue would certainly fit this truck! 

Doug

Edited May 22, 2014 by DJ194950

[pflaming]

Looking a couple weeks ahead regarding sound and insulation. Called Hush Mat for a local dealer, NONE in my  area. So I asked him how much I would need and the price. To do the entire cab: $745.00 including freight, add another 10% for sales taxes and . . . OUCH! I didn't order. 

[HanksB3B]

http://www.b-quiet.com/?gclid=CL3Q5fP-wL4CFY17fgodtH0AIw

[Jeff Balazs]

Paul;

I did warn you ..... it isn't cheap. I am sure I spent over a grand on sound proofing materials. For me it was worth it. I am really happy with the results I got but then this is my daily driver. And I don't have any other vehicles to spend money on.

 

You can probably find a substitute material that won't cost as much. I am very happy with the way the Hushmat stays in place and works so I have no problem recommending it. One thing I will mention is there are sound deadening techniques that use smaller strips of material adhered to specific locations on the cab which does work to some extent. You can get a decent reduction in sound using this technique using a lot less material. I started off by trying this method.......and it is not all bad. But when I decided to see what sort of results I would get by covering as much of the sheet metal up as I could I heard the difference right away. For me more was better.

 

Jeff

[52b3b Joe]

Paul, I bought Dynomat off ebay and used it in my truck. I bought the Dynomat extreme. It is supposed to be heat and sound insulation. I put it everywhere the interior would cover it. The truck doesn't sound like a tin can anymore but I haven't had a chance to see how heat resistant it is. 

 

Here is what I bought:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DYNAMAT-Xtreme-BULK-PACK-includes-FREE-ROLLER-extreme-NO-ADDITIONAL-FOLDS-USPS-/251067798306?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item3a74ce9322&vxp=mtr

[pflaming]

Custom order from b-quiet - 283.22 USD to my door.

 

This product is to be as good or better than the popular Dynatech product. Dynatech said I would need 86 sq ft to do the entire cab and the cost would be $745.00 not including sales tax. For $283.22 from b-quiet I get 120 sq feet of product. 

So I am going to order this product. 

 

I have copied what Jeff did and will follow that as close as I can. Then he and I will have to meet half distance, bring along sound detection device(s) and compare the results driving the same road(s) and the same speeds etc.

 

Jeff, you up to this? This is not a challenge, it''s  just a comparison test. The loser pays for the other's entrance fees to 48dodger's spring BBQ. 

[MBF]

Paul, if you're going to put a headliner in the truck, I don't know that you need to cover the entire interior with soundproofing.  I bought two packs of Eastwood's version of dynamat and put 3 pcs on the roof.  I used the rest for the firewall covering (inside the cab), and a couple for the floor under the seat.  The luan backed headliner and side pieces did most of the quieting down of the cab noise.  For the rear of the cab, I used the double foil backed insulation sold at Lowes and used a contact cement to attach it to the rear wall.  I don't think the whole project including the luan and vinyl material cost more than $200.00 to complete.  Comparing the sound in the truck that is done to my other truck-well there is no comparison.  I saved my patterns for the headliner and will be doing the same to that one very shortly.  It was a fun project, not perfect, but suits me and made a huge difference in the level of cab noise.  Mike

Edited May 23, 2014 by MBFowler