55 Fargo Posted May 4, 2014 Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 Well, this is what I've got to work with. It's going to require all new wires. Will go with 12 volt this time. A brief response to the exterior. I appreciate the encouragement to paint. Yet then what I will have is another pretty truck. I enjoyed the conversations I had with the other exterior so will not paint. Will have to see where it all leads. I can imagine some of the conversations they had after they left talking to you... Is that just "some people talkin"...........LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted May 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 (edited) Go to https://www. kimballstock.com/auto_home.asp then go to 'trucks' and page down. They have one somewhat like mine. Edited May 4, 2014 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 4, 2014 Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 Fargos-Go-Far, on 03 May 2014 - 9:38 PM, said:Is that just "some people talkin"...........LOL about the same issue here most of the time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrampSteer Posted May 4, 2014 Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 (edited) I saw the Phoenix yesterday when I picked up parts. To see it close up would change your mind about painting. Edited May 4, 2014 by TrampSteer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 4, 2014 Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 TrampSteer, on 04 May 2014 - 11:49 AM, said:I saw the Phoenix yesterday when I picked up parts. To see it close up would change your mind about painting. NEVER...!!!!!!!!!!!!! patina is one step from rust..rust that is coverted is but pitted substrate... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted May 4, 2014 Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 NEVER...!!!!!!!!!!!!! patina is one step from rust..rust that is coverted is but pitted substrate... That opinion might be influenced by the climate where you live. The Central Valley is basically a desert so even a slight bit of rust can be stable for years with no other issues. Move Paul's truck a few miles east up into the Sierra or 100 miles west to the coast and your metal protection issues change greatly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted May 4, 2014 Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 That opinion might be influenced by the climate where you live. The Central Valley is basically a desert so even a slight bit of rust can be stable for years with no other issues. Move Paul's truck a few miles east up into the Sierra or 100 miles west to the coast and your metal protection issues change greatly. Lot of areas, if no moisture, and nothing holding moisture, metal can be stable for years. The metal on these heaps is plenty thick too. It's where there is moisture, and areas holding water or wet dirt and water, things can rot fast... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted May 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 I'm very aware of the climate related comments. The weather where I live is dry as a popcorn fart and I always had/have my cars in a garage. BUT when I take it to Indiana, then I have to address the protection factor on the surface and under neath. My goal now is to drive it out Mid June next summer so I will prepare it for the Indianapolis climate yet I will not paint it. I just returned from a car show here in town. Not one Mopar and no patina vehicles either, they ran us off last year. Not one car out of aroun 70+ cars that stopped me and I noticed that no one else was stopping either. Last year I couldn't sit down, people were at my truck all afternoon. Well each to his own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted May 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 Canvas as an artistic term is generically a reference to the surface upon which an artist works. It may be canvas, wood, paper, etc. and other surfaces such as buildings and boulders to name a few. I see the surface of a vehicle as a canvas upon which painters and also artists can work. Thus to me this truck due in part to its recent history has become a survivor canvas. To cover that surface would destroy a one of a kind canvas, but to preserve that 'toasted' surface in some fashion then will transform this truck into an object of art. I am confident that when my artistic daughter and I finish the surface on this truck, it will bring raves that will amaze many if not most. So keep an eye open, the artistic work has just begun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Oil Soup Posted May 5, 2014 Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 One suggestion for a surface preservative is Briwax. Comes in a natural tone or in various colors from black, brown, rust, red etc. Easy to remove if you decide to paint later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rglowacki Posted May 5, 2014 Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 I don't get all the "You should paint your truck now!" and "This is no longer a patina" comments..... We are here to support each other in this hobby. We all have somewhat rare machines here and if a guy wants to enjoy the look of his truck without a standard paint job, let him. Debating what is considered "patina" is so subjective we might as well be debating favorite songs or art or something. Its all subjective. As many guys that there are that like to see an absolutely perfect "fresh-out-of-the-factory-like-it's-1949" restoration, there are just as many guys that are bored looking at them that way, and want to see what age has done to a truck. Pflaming....you are going for something different here. You will figure it out. I think once your truck has some glass back in it and matching wheels it will start coming together for the rest of us. But I can tell you've got a vision for it, stick with it and keep your truck unique. I personally like the look of the drivers side, top of the cab, and the hood of your truck. That kind of baked-in silvery bronze look is cool! Is there any way you can set a fire to do the same thing to the passenger side?!?! Kidding! Kidding! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 5, 2014 Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 rglowacki, on 05 May 2014 - 10:51 AM, said: I don't get all the "You should paint your truck now!" and "This is no longer a patina" comments..... We are here to support each other in this hobby. We all have somewhat rare machines here and if a guy wants to enjoy the look of his truck without a standard paint job, let him. Debating what is considered "patina" is so subjective we might as well be debating favorite songs or art or something. Its all subjective. As many guys that there are that like to see an absolutely perfect "fresh-out-of-the-factory-like-it's-1949" restoration, there are just as many guys that are bored looking at them that way, and want to see what age has done to a truck. Pflaming....you are going for something different here. You will figure it out. I think once your truck has some glass back in it and matching wheels it will start coming together for the rest of us. But I can tell you've got a vision for it, stick with it and keep your truck unique. I personally like the look of the drivers side, top of the cab, and the hood of your truck. That kind of baked-in silvery bronze look is cool! Is there any way you can set a fire to do the same thing to the passenger side?!?! Kidding! Kidding! yes...looks are subjective...but sheet metal subjected to fire and then washing....application of any water, the very seams and mounting surfaces not readily seen to the naked eye is not getting the protection one thinks when just wiping the surface..same to be said for under the panel surfaces areas you rarely see much less have access...personally I could care less if the truck rots to the ground as it is no skin off my nose but to save the very love and labor already poured into this car will require a bit of "moving on" and especially given he is going to give the vehicle to another family member that lives in a very salt/wet prone area..fire does not leave patina...fire leaves stressed metal and unprotected surfaces...it is the protection of the time and money already invested that I am stressing that it's time to do a bit more than the assuming laissez-faire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted May 5, 2014 Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 I don't get all the "You should paint your truck now!" and "This is no longer a patina" comments..... We are here to support each other in this hobby. We all have somewhat rare machines here and if a guy wants to enjoy the look of his truck without a standard paint job, let him. Debating what is considered "patina" is so subjective we might as well be debating favorite songs or art or something. Its all subjective. As many guys that there are that like to see an absolutely perfect "fresh-out-of-the-factory-like-it's-1949" restoration, there are just as many guys that are bored looking at them that way, and want to see what age has done to a truck. Pflaming....you are going for something different here. You will figure it out. I think once your truck has some glass back in it and matching wheels it will start coming together for the rest of us. But I can tell you've got a vision for it, stick with it and keep your truck unique. I personally like the look of the drivers side, top of the cab, and the hood of your truck. That kind of baked-in silvery bronze look is cool! Is there any way you can set a fire to do the same thing to the passenger side?!?! Kidding! Kidding! Well said. I think the real trick is to get the underside of things protected. The stuff we can all see is much easier to deal with. Wax or some other clear coating can be maintained fairly easily. Heck a few coats of good old Johnsons paste wax would probably be adequate. I would be more concerned with the underside of panels, fenders etc. Perhaps this may require a good cleaning and some form of undercoating? Also like any of these trucks there are potential leak spots which should be carefully addressed if you do not repaint. Jeff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted May 5, 2014 Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 I don't get all the "You should paint your truck now!" and "This is no longer a patina" comments..... lol....probably should be noted that a lot of us here have known each other for quite awhile.....years infact. Paul and Tim spend a lot of time on chat....writing each other etc....we help each other out in a lot of different ways. We can be like brothers who fight.....we can go to town on each other and still be standing...but stand between us???? That's another story. 48D 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted May 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 48dodger is spot on. Today I began to wire The Phoenix. In four hours I ran all the wires. Tomorrow I put on the connectors put the battery in and it should be good to go. Here is what I have discovered. There are three systems in the harness: one wires the coil to the battery to the starter to the switch and starts with the amp gauge. Another connects the lights and starts with the light switch. The third connects the generator into the system to keep it charged. Now what I did what this: I ran system one first. I pushed the wires to the amp gauge and secured them there then ran those wires to the coil via the Ig switch and to the battery. Second I did the same thing with the wires to the light switch, pushed them through the firewall hole and secured them at the switch then secured those wires at a three stud bar and finally I pushed the wires for the generating system through and secured them to the regulator. This is so simple. To make a harness first is a total waste of time. Another four hours of crimping and attaching connectors and I will be done. Will still have the turn signals to add but with that connecting bar on the fire wall it's simple. By putting the wires through their appropriate holes I can attach them to the gauge cluster from the front side the push the cluster in to place, the same with the light switch. I will spend very little time under the dash. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 For sure PP and I talk a lot..PM's, forum posts, chats and telephone calls...he sees things one way..I see them another...I feel that even if he does not do what I think should be done...I feel I need to make a comment to that fact just to "toggle" his thinking on the subject. Seriously I did not want the truck to get further damage over trying to keep a certain look compromised by fire..I tend to look a bit further down the road at times than some people.. where is Norm when you need him Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Patina can be a completely rotted out POS fender ,hood or door. Some people like it. Me...... I want something relatively shiny that will let me know when it's time to clean it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 For sure PP and I talk a lot..PM's, forum posts, chats and telephone calls...he sees things one way..I see them another...I feel that even if he does not do what I think should be done...I feel I need to make a comment to that fact just to "toggle" his thinking on the subject. Seriously I did not want the truck to get further damage over trying to keep a certain look compromised by fire..I tend to look a bit further down the road at times than some people.. where is Norm when you need him Normscoupe, is no doubt watching from the "cosmos", He would say paint it, then keep it on the driveway, he would have still enjoyed this forum for sure.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted May 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Just for the record. As long as the truck was here in Central CA in a dry climate and garaged, there was little need to think 'down the road' as my good friend Tim has suggested. But I know that whatever I do this time, things must be protected so I will give a great deal of attention to the items mentioned by Tim and others. It may not have a single color when it's completed but it will have a finish that is as protective as any upscale paint finish. AND I'm anxious to get the wiring done, the engine running, glass in, and a thorough check over on a good hoist so that I can get to the creative issues. So ". . . to be continued!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertKB Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Paul, you mention another four hours of crimping and attaching connectors. I would rather you said "soldering and attaching connectors". Nothing works as well as soldering and it is what is usually done from the factory. I believe it is worth the extra time it takes to solder rather than crimp. Just my thoughts and some will agree with me and some not. Good luck with the project and keep the pictures coming. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodFru2u Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 When we rewired our MG we soldered multi pin connectors to the wires and the gauges, Then we numbered the pins to work with the wiring diagram. When and if I need to pull the dash I just unplug the connectors. I think we used (3) 4 pin connectors and (1) 5 pin. I need to yank the dash sometime this summer to revarnish the wood, after 7 years back on the road. After you rewire your truck, this way it might be easier to pull everything for painting. Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 quick connects are the way to go if you making your own harness and using a donor harness from a wrecking yard for the firewall through connector is also a plus..allows one to split the harness for even easier future work if required..DO ensure you make a good drawing of your connectors, locations and what circuit is in what cavity..you will thank yourself later...place a copy of this in the glove box for any future owner..along with any modifications and source of those mods for ease of future repairs..you think you may remember..and you might..but don't bet the farm on it...write it down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted May 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 (edited) I dropped by the local thrift store this morning. At the back door was this love seat. It didn't have the cushions so they were about to trash it. They gave it to me and I salvaged enough really nice leather and matching Naugahyde to more than cover the bucket seats in the suburban. Well, the harness is complete. Now to get set up to solder the connectors. Headed there in a bit. I've got about five hours into this project. I soldered on the connectors this afternoon. I'm getting quite good at it, I seldom get the wires so hot that the factory installed smoke escapes. Edited May 7, 2014 by pflaming 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertKB Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Glad to hear you soldered the connectors. Following this with interest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 Progression: I removed the harness and bench soldered all the connectors. That really increases peace of mind. Then harness back in and partially fitted. I used an 8 pole terminal strip: It allows me to add with ease. for example I need a line for the electronic fuel pump, so the blue wire is for that need. I just push the wire through the firewall and connect it to the IG Switch, then back route it along side the other wires to the T strip, cut, add connector, solder, and attach. Later I will route that to the pump after it is mounted. Very simple. The harness is in the proper route and will be cosmetically attached when all checks out. Now to get the correct items for 12 volt swap: alternator, 12 volt coil, elec fan and temp sensor, electronic distributor, 12 volt bulbs. Oh yes, a proper regulator also. My temporary shop. New building comes next Tuesday, so the suburbans were moved today. All other items will be moved tomorrow including the neighbor's fence. "It's beginning to look a lot like . . . .!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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