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Posted

I got everything together and welded up today; just need to add the overflow tube and it's ready for a coat of paint.

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Posted

Man, you sure don't let any moss grow on your projects!

 

Have you thought about a way to low pressure test your fuel tank for pinhole leaks of or you planning to do a coating in the tank to make sure that any pinhole leaks don't let gas fumes out??

 

Just a thought as I always seems to get pinholes when I weld older metals to new etc.! <_<

 

Go man go! Can't believe your energy on your projects. :D

 

Best to ya,

 

Doug

Posted

Thanks! Usually when I weld a tank I mix up some All-Metal body filler and go over the welds on the outside and then a coat of paint. I've done a few that way and haven't had and issues.

  • Like 1
Posted

If that's been working for you,  I personally feel that it's tottaly your decsion. Seems reasonable.

 

Expect a video soon driving the car with the "new motor" soon at the pace you  have been working to be posted fairly soon!

 

Doug

  • Like 1
Posted

I hope so, too. I dont want this to be an all winter project; I'd like to have it back on the road in a few months. Funds are the big thing; seems like parts for this little six are pricy. There's a recommended 60k mile tuneup for it; I'd like to take care of all that stuff before it gets bolted in place permanantly. Plus I need a new clutch set, radiator, exhaust system, driveshaft, computer mods, a few custom parts I had to farm out......it starts to add up pretty quick.

Posted

Found this interesting; I was checking the specs on both cars today:

1949 Plymouth P18 Business Coupe--GVW 2983lbs
1994 Taurus SHO Sedan with auto trans--GVW 3503lbs

Who would have thought the old 49 would be 500lbs lighter?

Posted

Found this interesting; I was checking the specs on both cars today:

1949 Plymouth P18 Business Coupe--GVW 2983lbs

1994 Taurus SHO Sedan with auto trans--GVW 3503lbs

Who would have thought the old 49 would be 500lbs lighter?

Me for one.

 

There is a whole lot of air inside my old car. Places like the insides of doors, behind the trim panels, etc. Modern cars are packed a lot denser.

Posted

Makes sense to me, plus a shorter wheelbase and lack of all the power window and seat motors probably account for some of it.

Posted

my P15 Bz Cp is some 800 lbs lighter than the donor vehicle even given the heavier engine weight of the flat 6 compared to the bent 6 in the donor..but if you were the guy cutting the truck apart for the donor hardware etc..you would quickly realize the heavier weight of the modern vehicle..it was some very heavy metal thoughout..surprised me how heavy it was built..

Posted

Found this interesting; I was checking the specs on both cars today:

1949 Plymouth P18 Business Coupe--GVW 2983lbs

1994 Taurus SHO Sedan with auto trans--GVW 3503lbs

Who would have thought the old 49 would be 500lbs lighter?

I don't remember the exact numbers now,but I was shocked to discover my new 87 Mustang GT convertible was at least 400 lbs heavier than my 39 Ford tudor sedan.

 

Why is it everybody says they switched to uni-body cars to save weight?

Posted

I finished up the welding on the tank and as a precaution I put a coat of All-Metal body filler over the welded areas. Also here is the Taurus fuel pump/level control assembly; I fitted it with a new Carter pump and replaced the stock level control with the one for the aftermarket gauges that are in the car.
 

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Posted

If they were built to the same criteria as the old cars, they would be. Throw or cut in this case all the extra body panels and supports for safety, crash bars, sound deadeners, electronics and other creature comforts, padding in the new ones and you might be surprised how much weight could come out. You want a shocker, get the weight of a late 60's Vette. Just because it fiberglass doesn't mean it's light.

Posted

Crazy, I thought a Vette would really be light!

 

Got the tank finished and mounted today. Im not real happy with the way the filler came out; it's sticking out too far but I'll address that later. I cut a section out of the trunk floor and will raise that section a few inches to give me clearance for the sending unit, fuel lines and wiring.

 

I also bought a Wilwood MC for the clutch with a remote mount resevior. I built a bracket for it and have it mounted to original clutch pedal after putting a longer pin in the pedal arm and reversing the direction that the pin went in. Looks like it'll work; I threaded the pushrod, cut it in half, and put it back together with a coupling nut to give me about 1 1/2" adjustment on the rod.

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Posted

Are you going to weld the trunk back in or make an access cover for future servicing without gas tank removal?

Posted

I got the firewall roughed in yesterday using 18 gauge sheetmetal. I ended up cutting a couple inches higher for more clearance. For now it's just tacked together; I'll make it neat and paint the firewall when the engine comes out for cleanup.

 

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Posted

Very nice. I envy those who have your skills and knowledge and can FULLY complete the task.  

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks, Paul; but Im no better of a builder than any of you other guys. Everyone on here does some fine work. As far as completing; just stay organized and tackle one task at a time.

Posted

Not a lot of car stuff done today; I had a big list of honey-dos since we're doing a family BBQ tomorrow plus it was really hot out. I did do a trial fit on the intake. A few things you have to do to turn the intake to face the front is to grind the EGR passage off the intake, cut the top lip off of the timing belt cover, and put some 1/2" spacer plates under it. I've got a water jet guy cutting the spacers, the other two items are done. Looks like it's going to fit in the firewall just right.

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Posted

I got my oil pan back today; the guy did a nice job and it fits around the tie rod perfect. Also set up my accelerator using the pedal and cable from the Taurus. Literally a bolt in, didnt change anything and the pedal travel and location is just right. I pulled the belt tensioner off the power steering pump bracket and will move it to the other side of the engine. I just need to design a bracket for it and find a belt the right length.

Tomorrow Im going to pick up a set of small block Ford 1 1/2" long tube headers I found on CL and will use those and the flanges Im having made to build some headers. I had some 3.8 Mustang ones but they are not going to work out.

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Posted

I got these headers tonight from a 351M. I think the passenger side is going to work out really well as the tubing spread is almost exact once you cut off the last tube. As soon as I get my flanges back it should only take a few short 45 degree pieces to put this one together. The drivers side will be a little tougher; i have to work around the steering column

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Posted

I was hoping to be building headers today but my flanges aren’t done yet so I tackled some other jobs. I got a bracket made for the belt tensioner. It came out pretty decent; I’ll have to add a rear support off of the motor mount for it one I mount it permanent. I also finished welding in the setback on my firewall and filled about 15 holes that will no longer be used. I patched a couple holes in the floor where the old accelerator and MC access panel were, made a new MC access panel, and made a panel to go over the trans tunnel where I had cut it out.

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