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Posted

Did you try a toilet plunger?

I haven't tried anything as I was honestly about to junk it. There are some pretty significant creases in that dent which is why I thought of chopping. I will try some of these though.

Posted

I would use a stud welder to pull the dents. 

It would take some time, but would work.

 

Don't know if you would buy one Ed, but you might have a buddy who has one and you didn't ask...lol

 

Otherwise, you could split the seams and work both halves in an open fashion and reseal it like the factory.

 

Or, cut the bottom off with a cut-off wheel, straighten it then tig weld it back together......cutting the top would make it tough to swing the hammer effectively.

 

48D

Posted

I would use a stud welder to pull the dents. 

It would take some time, but would work.

 

Don't know if you would buy one Ed, but you might have a buddy who has one and you didn't ask...lol

 

Otherwise, you could split the seams and work both halves in an open fashion and reseal it like the factory.

 

Or, cut the bottom off with a cut-off wheel, straighten it then tig weld it back together......cutting the top would make it tough to swing the hammer effectively.

 

48D

 

I would love to have one of those but I don't and I can't think of anyone I know that has one either. I did mention this same project to Dad and he said basically the same thing. Braze a few tabs on the bottom and pull them and then remove them. I should note I'm not going for perfection here just function.

Posted

I would love to have one of those but I don't and I can't think of anyone I know that has one either. I did mention this same project to Dad and he said basically the same thing. Braze a few tabs on the bottom and pull them and then remove them. I should note I'm not going for perfection here just function.

 

bah, just dump some acetylene int here, seal it up and light it off!  Problem solved!  ;)

Posted

bah, just dump some acetylene int here, seal it up and light it off!  Problem solved!   ;)

How much is some? Thimble full, pinch, dollop, tea spoon, table spoon, cup, pint, pound, ETC. Need more information???

Posted

I've got one if you want to come down and try it out.  If you're any good at welding sheet metal, you can spot scraps of sheet metal on and pull on them with a vise grip while lightly tapping the edges of the dents with a body hammer.

Posted (edited)

If you have a slide hammer, find a nut or preferably 2that fit the threads of the hammer., tack weld the nuts together while threaded on the shaft (wet rags covering the rest of threads/shaft), then weld to the end of the nuts to a piece of left of sheet metal to the end of nuts sticking straight out. Size of the sheet metal depends on the size/shape of dent being worked,  Then put several tack welds in the center of dent to start and the use the slide hammer to pull dent outward. You probably will need to take a cut off wheel to the tacks weld to move the slide hammer around some to work out a larger bent.

 

Kind of the same idea as the stud welder just $250+ cheaper. Slower, BUT.

 

Always clean out the gas tank First, and/or put exhaust of a lawn mower or similar into the tank to remove any oxygen.

 

DJ

Edited by DJ194950
Posted

. . . and/or put exhaust of a lawn mower or similar into the tank to remove any oxygen.

 

The Smart & Final grocery store near me sells dry ice: A little of that in the tank would soon fill it with enough CO2 to keep the old gas from igniting very easily.

Posted

The Smart & Final grocery store near me sells dry ice: A little of that in the tank would soon fill it with enough CO2 to keep the old gas from igniting very easily.

 

How long does gas/vapor linger in there? This tank hasn't seen a drop of gas in a decade or more.

Posted

How long does gas/vapor linger in there? This tank hasn't seen a drop of gas in a decade or more.

Don't know. I've heard that it can be years but the source for that was suspect.

 

Only fuel tank I have personally worked on was right off a car and it was off because it was leaking. In that case I cleaned it the best I could, took precautions against having any mixture left inside near an ignitable level, and then used a high wattage flameless soldering iron to seal the leaks. Everything worked out but I don't know if it was because (1) I was lucky, (2) because I'd taken sufficient precautions, or (3) because it would not have exploded anyway.

Posted

I have seen a few distorted tanks..heard of a few less than pleasant experiences..lots of soiled undies I am thinking..I try to stick with multiple flushings with water..while full of water burn off any vapor or fuel floating at the neck of the opening...then process to repair..and even then I do my best to only use the very heavy iron I have here..even as kids we solder pennies on go cart gas tanks..excellent patch material..

Posted

Give it the nose test.

 

I like the match test better!   I can see Ed now just like Wile E. Coyote!

Posted

Our neighbor was working on his 58 ford tank and exploded the vapor inside. While he wasn't hurt it sure scared the you know what out of him and ruined his tank. It was blown up like a balloon.

Posted

Our neighbor was working on his 58 ford tank and exploded the vapor inside. While he wasn't hurt it sure scared the you know what out of him and ruined his tank. It was blown up like a balloon.

 

That would get your dents out... :D

  • Like 1
Posted

Have a radiator shop boil  it out for you.  Any varnish inside will be gone and you can work on it with anything you want afterwards.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

A frame made its way home today!!! Brought the 48 to the cabin and towed this home.

IMAG1651.jpg

 

Here it is reunited with a cab in its new parking spot where it will most likely sit until spring.

 

IMAG1656.jpg

 

 

Lastly a little excitement on the way home. On the freeway we hit what I believe was a throw pillow that fell(got thrown?) off someones vehicle. We saw the big cloud of feathers and when we got home found this

IMAG1654.jpg

  • 5 months later...
Posted

Spring is finally here! Got a good find on craigslist jeep rear end with a 3.55 ratio. Did some measuring and its 1 inch less than the stock one. So today I dug out the wheel I had and might use(if I can find more) to see how it would fit. Looks like it will be great on both the front and the back.

IMAG1897.jpg

 

IMAG1898.jpg

 

Clearance to the frame

IMAG1900.jpg

 

and clearance to the fender

IMAG1901.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Picked this up tonight. 1994 cherokee 3.55 axle. Without the drums I measure 7/8 under the width of the stock rear. The drums should make it even closer

 

IMAG1903.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Out with the old axle. After chasing the threads everything came right off. The hardest part was getting the U bolts out. They were stuck good.

IMAG1914.jpg

 

Looks like my hope to avoid buying shackles is dashed.

IMAG1915.jpg

 

 

At least I still have hope the hanger on this side is still good. The other side appears to have the shackle worn right into the hanger so that side is probably doomed.

 

IMAG1916.jpg

Posted

It doesn't really show in the picture but the bolts/sleeves through the U shaped clamps on the springs are pretty crusty. Are they just a bolt with a sleeve that matches the width of the spring?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

 

 

At least I still have hope the hanger on this side is still good. The other side appears to have the shackle worn right into the hanger so that side is probably doomed.

 

 

 

And that hope is gone. Yesterday I took them apart and they are both quite worn. The bushing that came out of the spring slips into the housing with no resistance.

 

So does anyone have an alternative other than $85 each new hangers? As this isn't a restoration I'm not opposed to fitting something else.

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