Carter B&B Carburetor

[Jim Roach]

Well I finally found a matching set for use on my dual carb set-up. They both need to be rebuilt. My question is, where do I find the numbers needed to identify the correct rebuild kit for these carburetors, and where is the best place to purchase the kits? This is something I have never done before. Should I let someone with more experience do the work or is it relatively easy with the instructions that come with the kits? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you, Jim Roach

[Young Ed]

Jim the carb kits you get from like Napa cover many carbs. I've bought many without ever giving them a carb #. Make sure you keep all your old gaskets to match up with the new ones as the kit comes with 3-4 styles.

[Don Coatney]

You will find a couple of balls inside your carburetors. Dont lose them and pay attention to what holes they come out of as they must go back into the same holes. Place your carburetors on a large refrigerator magnet for disassembly. You will be less likely to lose parts.

[Jim Roach]

What about the level of difficulty?

[Young Ed]

I don't think they are too difficult. I guess you have to judge for yourself your level of handiness. You have two carbs so you can leave one mostly intact while working on the second one. Most of the parts only go 1 place and there really isn't all that much to them. The biggest thing is the small BB goes under the accel pump. Don't put the bigger one in there!

[Lefebvre]

what happens if you reverse the BBs? Now I'm going to have to take my carb apart to make sure.

[HanksB3B]

Your Truck will do 40+mph in reverse and around 5 mph in 3rd gear.

On a more serious note: Does one replace or re-use the aluminum plugs that hold the BB's in? If they get replaced where does one typically find these as they are not included (as the BB's are) in my kit.

Thanks,

Hank

[Young Ed]

If you swap the BBs the big one gets stuck in the hole under the accel pump. Trust me.

Hank I do not remove the aluminum plugs. The BBs are not held in by them. The one under the accel pump has a spring clip that holds it and the other is under a brass piece that screws in.

[ggdad1951]

I had an old NOS kit to rebuild mine and it had ALL the parts, including the aluminum plugs, I replaced it all.

[41/53dodges]

bought my kits from autozone, worked fine for me! $15 ordered.

[HanksB3B]

If you swap the BBs the big one gets stuck in the hole under the accel pump. Trust me.

Hank I do not remove the aluminum plugs. The BBs are not held in by them. The one under the accel pump has a spring clip that holds it and the other is under a brass piece that screws in.

I appreciate it!

Hank

[maverick]

when i have any carb apart, i always lightly tap the balls against their seat using a drift punch just to make sure the seats seal up against them. i dont know if it ever does any better than before, but its always nice to think it did.

[Jim Roach]

Just picked up my kit from NAPA ($20 each). This kit came with the aluminum caps that you were talking about. What are they for? Should I use the new ones?

Thanks for everyone's help so far, Jim Roach

[Jim Roach]

Started my disassembly process and ran into what is probably a minor problem. The instructions tell me to remove the idle tube then lift out the step-up piston assembly and spring. Should this piston assembly lift right out? I tried to pull it out with plyers and it wount budge. Am I missing something here?

Help, Jim Roach

[Dodgeb4ya]

The step up piston should be loose and pop right out with the spring under it. Lube it or your choice of thin spray lube and carefully try to work it up and out.

[Jim Roach]

Thanks for the help. Gave it a shot of WD40, let it set for a while and it came right out.

Thanks again, Jim

[Young Ed]

Jim when you put it back together make sure that assembly moves freely.

[greg g]

also make sure that the vacuum to path to the small hole in the bottom of the carb is open and that the gasket is lined up to provide mainfild vacuum to the hole. In operation the vacuum at idle and part throttle pulls the piston down against the spring.

Under acceleration of high load, the vacuum signal decreases and the spring pulls the metering rod out of the jet providing additional fuel after the initial pop from the acc pump. If the vacuum path is blocked the needle will remain out, resulting in over rich operation and poor fuel milage.

There are sometimes a couple of choices for carb to manifold gasket, some may have a slot some will have 2 slots, and I have seen kits with some with no slots.

[MBF]

Here's an excellent link to a manual on a Carter BBD. I printed a copy and keep it as a reference. Mike

http://u225.torque.net/cars/SL6/docs/BBD_Manuals.pdf

There is also a lot of technical info on tuning this carb on: http://www.slantsix.org/

Edited March 13, 2011 by MBFowler

[HanksB3B]

Saved the pdf in my Carburetor folder.

Great find!

Hank

[52b3b Joe]

This is a little off topic but I didnt want to start a new tread.

I just rebuilt my carb over the weekend and everything seemed ok. Yesterday I finished up everything to try and run my truck for the first time and I couldn't get my truck to start. When I looked down the carb everything was very wet and I opened the butterfly and the whole intake was a pool of gas. Whats going wrong?

[Dave72dt]

I'd guess the float isn't floating or the needle valve isn't seating.

[Alshere59]

Sounds like the needle valve is stuck. Or float is hung as mentioned.

[Jim Roach]

I've got my carburetor disassembled, cleaned, and ready for paint. While I'm working on the paint I wanted to "test" the float as I have read should be done. How do I accomplish this?

[Merle Coggins]

Put it in a bowl of gas or water and see if it floats.