Los_Control

Yeah am embarrassed to repeat some of them ... but if someone does learn? I had a 1965 2door impala, Needed to change front tire. It was on a bumper jack and was yanking on tire to get it off the hub ... It came off the jack and landed on my arms while trying to loosen the front wheel. Turns out it landed on the tire because I never broke it loose, but both arms received road rash as it fell off jack and had my arms on tire under fender. Yeah sometime I do wonder how we ever survived youth.

For some reason your vids make you look older But enjoy, trial and error is the facts of life ... videos give clues but actually doing it gives experience. I am a few weeks ahead of you, bet you surpass me quick as you learn.

Dumb things like using a razor knife ... you pull it towards you, and you thinking ... hope it does not slip. It does and you probably need stitches. But we knew what was going to happen ahead of time. Kids, they pulling the knife, it slips ... happened so fast they no clue what happened. Is how we learn. I remember the weekly Monday morning safety meetings as a union carpenter ... think it was really just a chance to let the men get over their weekend hang over. Ladders have always been the biggest issue. Funny story ... as a finish carpenter, I remember looking out the window and a framer falling off a 6' step ladder while doing some fascia. He actually fell off it 3 times ... uneven ground, issues ... After 3rd time, he looked like the Tasmania devil and destroyed the ladder. Was so funny to watch ... ladder spinning around and tossed to the ground. Then a big stick and beat it to submission. Just saying sometimes we get ahead of selves ... the ladder never did anything wrong. Work smart, work safe

You know the drill ... deserves to be saved. Actually those panels seem to have some rare parts. From photo rear quarter looks good, has running boards, driver side mirror. There is a lot there to be saved. You could actually make a camp trailer out of it. Would I do anything with it? ... no. But if close enough I would drag it home. Whats there looks good, whats missing can be replaced.

I wish kids would read this and learn ... kids never listen. Years ago when was 22 years old, worked in a Bandag retread plant. At one point we were doing 176 tires a day. High production shop. In order to meet this production ... imagine if you will, a 30' long chamber filled with air. At 110 psi. We had 3 chambers. Takes a long time to exhaust the air out. We would cheat and exit the air more quickly. What a noise it made ... today I need hearing aids . Later I was a remodel carpenter ... and a smoker ... I hated wearing mask because could not breathe to begin with .... Imagine if you will opening walls & ceilings. cough ... cough ... cough ... all good here boss. Later, I did over extend myself carrying roof trusses ... they needed to be dropped with a crane. Result is my back is hosed ... I am permanently disabled. Today, I walk into shop and put on safety glasses, wear a mask when I should. I take safety precautions every chance I get .... fact is, I should have done it when 30 years old and not start when 50 .... just my ramblings as a disabled idiot.

I am sorta at the same stage. I have my old floor cut out. There is just so much access to other items, I am in no hurry to weld in my new floor. I need to replace the bushing on the clutch/brake pedal. The new brake lines connect right there and easy to get to. I need to replace my E-brake cable. I want to paint the frame ... thinking about replacing the cab mounts since they are so easy to reach. Just thinking the floor will be the last thing I put in ... contemplating making it bolt in. I have no idea how much floor repair you need ... just a idea to consider when doing the repairs. I am hesitant to use undercoating on my truck. Paint worked for 70 years in the past, will work as long as I need it the 2nd time around. I live in a dry warm climate so my experience would be different from yours. I am hesitant to use any undercoating or even por15. I can not say anything bad about por15, I have never used it and do not plan to in future. My concern is proper preparation and trapping moisture rust under the product. Same thing with any undercoating. You can cause more danger & harm if not done perfectly. What I do like for weather protection against different salt and ice melt applications is bar&chain oil for your chainsaw. Long video for other issue, but shows the results after 4 years in service.

Pretty sure I will continue to do what I do. Funniest damn thing I can mention is now that am retired, I no longer care about what others do. I did once care when was a supervisor and had a team to take care of.

I am always looking to repurpose scrap metal. Just saying I would salvage the metal and repair my fenders if opportunity arose.

Glad you said it first

Just saying the truck I bought I paid $1800 for it, was advertised for $2200. I offered $18 on the phone just by the photos provided on the add, then offered $200 if he delivered it on a trailer to my home. He did. Only thing I regret, is I really wanted a 1949 with 3 on the floor, I ended up with a late 1949 with the 1950 upgrades. You wont find many fools like me .... This is my 2nd 49, I specifically wanted this year and was willing to pay a lil extra to get it. While others in facebook market is asking similar prices, a few cheaper deals come up and sell fairly fast. I plan to also just drive around town with mine, just trying to do needed repairs first and paint is part of repairs. Where it is today.

Obvious it is those fog lights in the front causing the rear end issues ... take them off and send them to me There is a special tool/puller used to pull the drums off these old tapered axles. You can pick them up, I bought mine from ebay. A lot of people do swap the rear ends in these old trucks. A 3:73 from a jeep or Ford explorer works well. You would need to replace the spring perches on the axle and a few other things. Simply because people do swap rear ends, it may not be to hard to source parts or a complete rear end. I would use the correct tool to remove the drum, access damage and a fair chance you can keep & fix what you have, find spare part or just swap a modern rear end in. If the price is reasonable, what the pic shows it looks like a good project. Does the motor turn over by hand or is it stuck?

I have had 2 busy days, dinner is cooked and people are fed ... I need to rest and eat later. Not big on presents for Christmas ... or just a tightwad. I know my wife birthday is Dec 8, as a child growing up 5 brothers/sisters. Often her Birthday was passed over and combined with Christmas ... I tend to pay more attention t her on her B-day then xmas. She told me she wanted to spend x amount of money on her self this year ... perfect, buy your own gift .... she offered to buy me some new jeans to replace the pair I caught on fire grinding welds A few days ago a friend called up, needed a ride to the dollar store to buy a heater. I thought he would not get a decent heater from there. Sent him over my garage heater and said Merry Xmas. I have been wanting a propane heater anyways. Christmas Eve morning, got a call from my neighbor. I know he lost his job as a EMT about 9 months ago. Sure he has been dealing with depression, possibly ptsd as is a marine. He reached out to me and asked for some help, needed a ride home from the hospital. I think he finally hit bottom and ready to get back on with life. I have been taking care of him and a long battle ahead. Just happy to have my friend back. All in all I think was a fine Christmas for me. I hope you all had a great day also.

To bad you so far away, would buy your old bumper ... looks cherry compared to mine

Los scratches chin mumbles weeeel .... I asked this question awhile back ...and there are some really smart people here that told me yes, no, maybe. See I wanted the 3:73 out of the suburban & put them in my 49 dodge pickup. Seems I was told the only issue might be the splines on the axles. Seems some years used different splined axles and what you can do if yours are different, take the parts needed from one pumpkin & swap to the other so you can use your original axles. In your case, you may be able to swap the axles also if you find this issue I dunno, My truck rear end was actually 2" wider then the suburban. I could not swap axles. Long story short, compare the axles/splines when you remove them.

The rings will/can stick from sitting for several years without running. Good chance with a few heat cycles the rings on the low cylinder will loosen up and compression will rise to match the rest. I have similar issue with mine, #1 cyl was 75, #5 was 90, rest were over 100. I kept adding marvel mystery oil in the cylinders let it soak and then run it. Now the worst is 95 & rest are over 100. I have not yet started driving it. Was told driving the engine on the road in a decent rpm range will help the rings seat more then just idle in driveway.

Cough .... I think dwell is over rated. If important they would have made it adjustable like a cheby distributor? Just yanking your chain. With the chevrolet distributor you could open the window and adjust the dwell. No other car manufacturer offered that .... WTF? Was dwell not important to them? Just a pita to remove the dizzy cap and adjust the points from 12k to 16k to 20k & back to 13 to adjust the dwell. Now that you got it set just where you want it ... next month with points wear it will be different. I know I know ... put yer trailer queen back on the trailer. I will pull out my match book to set the points and skip the dwell

Pull #1 plug then remove the small pipe plug on #6 cyl. Rotate the engine by hand holding a finger over #1 Or a small piece of tissue paper works. When that cyl is on compression stroke, it will blow off the tissue paper or you will feel the air on your finger. Stop! Take a long wire, 10" or longer and put it into the pipe plug hole. now rotate the engine back or forth to get the #6 piston at top of stroke. Both #1 & #6 are on top of stroke at same time, #1 will be compression stroke ... you felt the compression escape the plug hole, #6 will be on exhaust stroke. Now you can drop in your distributor with rotor. Try to at least have the rotor pointing somewhere near 7:00 0'clock ... may be 5 or 8 does not matter It is where it is. Just saying if the rotor is pointing at 12 0'clock, rotate it 180 and have it point at 6 0'clock. Thats what I did, now my wiring is just like factory, except the wires are moved one position counter clockwise ... easy to remember for future reference. Now put on distributor cap, where the rotor is pointing, that is where #1 plug wire goes. 153624 clockwise around the distributor cap. Couple things to think about. The pipe plug could easily be blocked with carbon. I used a nail and gave it a tap with a hammer and cleared it .... not a great idea. It worked though. When I felt compression escaping the pipe plug hole, I knew 6 was near TDC and installed my distributor with rotor pointing to #6 plug wire and installed the rest from there. I never removed the #1 plug to install the distributor. Not as exact finding top of piston stroke, but close enough to know where the rotor is pointing and where the #6 wire should be installed. The reason why I offer this, when I knocked the carbon loose it was sitting on top of piston ... after I corrected my firing order problem, the engine fired right up ... that carbon got caught under the exhaust valve and ran badly for about 45 seconds until it got sucked out. This could have damaged the valve or valve seat. If I had the chance to do it over, I would have left the carbon alone not removed it. Which means you would not get to use wire to determine the piston travel. But thats ok, you can still figure it out.

If the last person who installed the oil pump followed the directions, it would be at 7:00 . Mine is at 6:00. You really need to find tdc on compression stroke and then install distributor. You need to put the engine in time on tdc when installing the oil pump, in order for distributor rotor to be pointing at 7:00 It will work fine as is, you simply need to find tdc and install wires accordingly. I fought mine for a couple days expecting 7:00 to mean something .... it does not.

recently I drew a diagram for a rear fuel tank bracket .... feel free to share it.

Did you ever figure out what bolt pattern you have? I read earlier you said was cheby disk brakes and 5 on 5.51/2 wheels bolt pattern. That would be a Ford bolt pattern. Cheby & large GM had a 5 on 5" bolt pattern. My 1991 chevy 1/2 ton truck has a 5 on 5" bolt pattern, older cadilacs pontiac, buicks etc ... 1949 dodge B1C had the 5 on 5" bolt pattern. The 5 on 5.5 1/2" was a old Ford wheel bolt pattern. Old cars and 1/2 ton trucks used it from the 30's up into the 1980's or later Just suggesting to clarify what rotors and wheels you have, would not be GM with the bolt pattern you stated.

Seems brake springs are a surprise .... I am quite amused when I found these springs in a bucket of oil I use to soak & lube things. I remember the springs on my rear shoes were to short, I wanted to replace them. .... Did I? I do not remember buying new ones ... feel like Gomer Pyle, Surprise ... surprise ... surprise. Gona have to pull the rear drums back off to find out why I have 2 extra brake springs ?

I have learned this year to keep a tight zipper on my mouth ... every now and then I read a post and I tug on the zipper to be sure it is secure

I do not think I am a snob, I think if you have someone that will paint it for you, good for you. I also think that a 70 year old car you will find less & less people willing to work on it. At this age, it is a matter of love we are forced to learn and do the work ourselves. Or pay big bucks to have a restorer paint them for us. I am a noob when it comes to paint, same time I think I can learn and do something satisfactory. I have for the last year ask the most ignorant questions on this forum about paint. I am no specialist. Today I am maybe 1/2 way through my paint and have no questions to ask ... just work to get it done. I guess you need to ask yourself what is the limits of your acceptance of paint. Remember the model T fords used a paint brush on assembly line. Can you use a $15 hplv spray gun from harbor freight and do better then a paint brush job? Can you do some of the basic metal replacement needed for these old cars? Like it or not, basic rust removal and metal welding, painting is part of these old cars ... same with tune up and brakes. You can do the paint yourself, just need to ask for some advice as you go ... or pay big bucks for someone qualified to do it for you.

Not sure what size factory did for oil gauge lines ... 3/16 sound reasonable. Where it goes through the firewall to gauge, they did use a flexible rubber line to prevent motion & leaks. Other then that, was just standard size lines for basic oil gauge.

years ago when I was a manager in a retread tire shop. I looked on in awe as they replaced a brass screw block on a $250k machine. Like a dumb ass, I asked ... why are you using brass to replace that? The engineer explained, the brass block cost $2k to replace, the screw shaft cost $5k to replace. The brass block is a sacrificial piece for the machine. Just something to think about when replacing parts on our old cars. Nylon or brass, just think about future issues.