Los_Control

Weeeel, a thrown rod you know how to proceed. In this case it may be this ... or it may be that or we could try this ... or we may need all 3. Then you have to wonder how much effort & time to put in it ... before it does throw a Rod. I am a cheap bastard and fix everything. Sometimes is not wise.

I wish you luck with it. In my past life I just wanted portable air compressors to deal with carpenters air tools. Whole different animal.

Yeah I agree with others ... my first thought was, if they cant remove a cotter key, how will they remove the drums? Here in Hicksville TX, I went to a buddy who is same age as me and owns a automotive repair shop .... Wanted to rent his hub puller ... he had no clue what I was talking about and never used one before. Just saying, your mechanic is in for a real treat if not familiar with the old tapered axles.

I dunno, maybe ocd is kicking in ... I got it back together. I had to show love to both ears .... just when I thought all was good it seemed to move again. 1, maybe they should be pressed out, not beaten to a pulp with a 3 pound sledge .... never had issues in the past changing u-joints. 2, I suspect this truck was ordered when new to haul a trailer. It has overloads and a class 3 hitch & 420k miles on it. While many parts have been changed, I suspect the drive line is original with 400k+ miles on it. Now am wondering if maybe getting metal fatigue? The front yoke is just as smooth and free as you would want it. I bet if @Plymouthy Adams was my customer, I could hand him this drive line and say all done and he would agree. Just the fact I had to use a sledge hammer to get it that way is wrong. At this point I think will put it back in the truck and try it. I will call a driveline repair shop next week and talk to them ... if one yoke is bad, the other 2 are also.

Was wondering if @Snipergot snow, about 1 hour ago it just stopped. Still only 32 so who knows it may start again. Just not common for this area ... 2nd time this year so far.

Yes sir I just went out and turned the heat on in the shop, going to do exactly what you thought. I do not need to drive it, just get it moved so dodge can be parked under cover. I guess I planned that all along ... real issue I was fighting, can I just call that good and consider fixed? Or do I need to get it replaced .... seems everyone agrees it needs replaced.

It is a common 1991 chebby 1/2 ton ... extended cab short bed,step side. the odd part is it is a manual trans. Most are automatics. Buuuut, it is a 2 piece drive shaft, possibly I can match the front 1/2 with another? Buuuut, it also has the carrier bearing installed on it, is pressed on and brand new. Not sure I can remove it and expect to re-use it. Another $40-$50 I think the turbo 350 automatic and the manual 5spd are different lengths, do not know if they use different yokes. 99% of these trucks are a silvarado, automatic, power windows, power seats, carpets etc... There are 4 of these trucks right here in hicksville TX, all automatics. Mine is a cheyenne. rubber floor mats, manual windows, manual transmission ... more of a working mans truck. More odd is the short bed stepside .... most working trucks are long wide bed. I simply have not seen another like mine. And on the siverado forums, only 1 guy knew what it was, but admits he never seen one. Without looking, I just have slim hopes of finding what I need used.

Yes sir, kinda what am thinking. ... might try to see if can source a good used one. Truck is odd enough that it probably be cheaper to take to drive line shop and have replaced. If the ear did break off while on highway, is connected to trans and would destroy the tail housing of the nv4500 manual trans which would not be cheap. 25 years ago, was only $100 to have a drive line modified repaired ... sure it not changed much ?

Guys/gals ... have a dilemma I need to take care of. Need to fix my chebby so this girl can get her parking space back Problem with the chebby is a u-joint, problem with u-joint is a bent yoke. Last spring I rebuilt the driveline, I found this one yoke had taken a hit and some metal scaring. Like out 4 wheeling and hit a rock. I dressed it up with a dremel and installed new u-joint ... ujoint was tight and figured would loosen up. It did not so doing it again. The left side is what right should look like, right side is bent slightly in and again the u-joint is to tight to freely move. I can easily remove the joint and caress it with a bfh .... but should I? Any advise to bend it back? I think it will be ok, yet I know some metal you should not bend .... my 16 gauge will break when I bend it. But the yoke is thick enough it will not matter?

Yeah and we walked uphill to school both ways ?

I was going to point this out, seems like I missed it. I specifically wanted a 1949 B1B with a flat 6/3 on the floor. I am a dummy that paid to much for a truck sight unseen ... I just asked they deliver it and pay for delivery. I love my truck, but not what I expected. Turns out my truck serial # ends with a X. This means it is a 1949, but it was sitting on the show room floor advertising all the 1950 upgrades. This means I got the 3 on the tree, low side bed, the motor/trans is a 1950 .... Just saying in 1949 they used a X, maybe in 51 they did something different?

https://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/tengines.html According to this, is a 218 from 51-53 ... sounds right. I had a 1952 parts truck I saw it had a motor started with a P, it was a 1952 motor. I was told sometimes at end of year they would use other engines to clear out old inventory before new year. So just because the engine started with a P, was told could not rule out it was not original. Is this true? I read it on the internets. Again just pointing out how they did so many screwy things back then.

Good looking truck .... seems doubtful is a low mileage survivor in that condition. More likely a older restoration. What if it had a frame swap or a motor swap, in 70 years much can happen. Does it really matter? Proper paperwork would be important to me. Back in these years, they used the engine # for the title. If engine got swapped it no longer matched. Unless one ground off the original # on new block and stamped in old # ... A lot of people did this. I met a old timer that did the exact same thing on stolen harleys ....Just saying, what does it mean? My Uncle sold a 1946 chevy truck, new owner found out it was actually a 1942 Navy truck. Was 46 when the Navy sold it and issued it it's 1rst title. Some states never bothered to title vehicles back in those days. My whole point, you got a nice looking truck, it has clean title, registered, insured ... you going to kick it out of bed cause frame or engine # not match? My opinion could be wrong. My truck has original title, engine, frame ... while my first 49 came from a farmer, had a 1937 motor, a 1/2 front ton axle on a 3/4 ton truck & a clean title.

I assume my truck was parked because of overheating issues. First start it was obvious a cooling issue and one T-stat bolt was broke, meaning po attempted and gave up. First issue I found was water distribution tube was clogged. I took a flat bar and rodded it out ... hokey repair but expect to pull the motor at some point and will change then. As @keithb7suggested ... the block was filled with sand or sediment, pulled the soft plugs and washed it out. I have heard it may be casting sand leftover from when block was born. If your engine was rebuilt at some time and hot tanked, probably cleaned out. If not there is a good chance your engine would benefit from cleaning it out. Then I filled the radiator/engine with straight vinegar. Ran it through a few heat cycles. Flushed it all out and repeated, left it sit for a few weeks and a few more heat cycles. Think maybe did this 3 times. maybe over 2 months let it sit with vinegar. Will be more mild and less aggressive then caustic chemical ... AND CHEAP! As it turned out, my radiator was shot and had about 6 holes in it, leaked from very beginning, not because of vinegar. Now with no T-stat installed, will idle for a hour or more at 160 degree, then slowly creep up to 190 and a fast idle drops it right back to 160. Will do a vinegar flush on it one more time when I actually start driving it, take it for a good drive and warm it up.

I use the permatex Indian head shellac gasket sealer on T-stats. I do not know what is best, just what worked for me 40 years ago while others failed. I glued my t-stat in place and also the gasket, let it setup for a few min before installing. Use fingers to support weight of t-stat while setting it down. Seems like it slipped once on me, you could tell because housing would not sit flush. Picked it back up and mooshed everything back together, more careful 2nd try and no issues. Probably something that would glue things better .... just what I use.

Yeah am embarrassed to repeat some of them ... but if someone does learn? I had a 1965 2door impala, Needed to change front tire. It was on a bumper jack and was yanking on tire to get it off the hub ... It came off the jack and landed on my arms while trying to loosen the front wheel. Turns out it landed on the tire because I never broke it loose, but both arms received road rash as it fell off jack and had my arms on tire under fender. Yeah sometime I do wonder how we ever survived youth.

For some reason your vids make you look older But enjoy, trial and error is the facts of life ... videos give clues but actually doing it gives experience. I am a few weeks ahead of you, bet you surpass me quick as you learn.

Dumb things like using a razor knife ... you pull it towards you, and you thinking ... hope it does not slip. It does and you probably need stitches. But we knew what was going to happen ahead of time. Kids, they pulling the knife, it slips ... happened so fast they no clue what happened. Is how we learn. I remember the weekly Monday morning safety meetings as a union carpenter ... think it was really just a chance to let the men get over their weekend hang over. Ladders have always been the biggest issue. Funny story ... as a finish carpenter, I remember looking out the window and a framer falling off a 6' step ladder while doing some fascia. He actually fell off it 3 times ... uneven ground, issues ... After 3rd time, he looked like the Tasmania devil and destroyed the ladder. Was so funny to watch ... ladder spinning around and tossed to the ground. Then a big stick and beat it to submission. Just saying sometimes we get ahead of selves ... the ladder never did anything wrong. Work smart, work safe

You know the drill ... deserves to be saved. Actually those panels seem to have some rare parts. From photo rear quarter looks good, has running boards, driver side mirror. There is a lot there to be saved. You could actually make a camp trailer out of it. Would I do anything with it? ... no. But if close enough I would drag it home. Whats there looks good, whats missing can be replaced.

I wish kids would read this and learn ... kids never listen. Years ago when was 22 years old, worked in a Bandag retread plant. At one point we were doing 176 tires a day. High production shop. In order to meet this production ... imagine if you will, a 30' long chamber filled with air. At 110 psi. We had 3 chambers. Takes a long time to exhaust the air out. We would cheat and exit the air more quickly. What a noise it made ... today I need hearing aids . Later I was a remodel carpenter ... and a smoker ... I hated wearing mask because could not breathe to begin with .... Imagine if you will opening walls & ceilings. cough ... cough ... cough ... all good here boss. Later, I did over extend myself carrying roof trusses ... they needed to be dropped with a crane. Result is my back is hosed ... I am permanently disabled. Today, I walk into shop and put on safety glasses, wear a mask when I should. I take safety precautions every chance I get .... fact is, I should have done it when 30 years old and not start when 50 .... just my ramblings as a disabled idiot.

I am sorta at the same stage. I have my old floor cut out. There is just so much access to other items, I am in no hurry to weld in my new floor. I need to replace the bushing on the clutch/brake pedal. The new brake lines connect right there and easy to get to. I need to replace my E-brake cable. I want to paint the frame ... thinking about replacing the cab mounts since they are so easy to reach. Just thinking the floor will be the last thing I put in ... contemplating making it bolt in. I have no idea how much floor repair you need ... just a idea to consider when doing the repairs. I am hesitant to use undercoating on my truck. Paint worked for 70 years in the past, will work as long as I need it the 2nd time around. I live in a dry warm climate so my experience would be different from yours. I am hesitant to use any undercoating or even por15. I can not say anything bad about por15, I have never used it and do not plan to in future. My concern is proper preparation and trapping moisture rust under the product. Same thing with any undercoating. You can cause more danger & harm if not done perfectly. What I do like for weather protection against different salt and ice melt applications is bar&chain oil for your chainsaw. Long video for other issue, but shows the results after 4 years in service.

Pretty sure I will continue to do what I do. Funniest damn thing I can mention is now that am retired, I no longer care about what others do. I did once care when was a supervisor and had a team to take care of.

I am always looking to repurpose scrap metal. Just saying I would salvage the metal and repair my fenders if opportunity arose.

Glad you said it first

Just saying the truck I bought I paid $1800 for it, was advertised for $2200. I offered $18 on the phone just by the photos provided on the add, then offered $200 if he delivered it on a trailer to my home. He did. Only thing I regret, is I really wanted a 1949 with 3 on the floor, I ended up with a late 1949 with the 1950 upgrades. You wont find many fools like me .... This is my 2nd 49, I specifically wanted this year and was willing to pay a lil extra to get it. While others in facebook market is asking similar prices, a few cheaper deals come up and sell fairly fast. I plan to also just drive around town with mine, just trying to do needed repairs first and paint is part of repairs. Where it is today.